Saturday, 31 January 2009

Heaven On SEVEN (SEAS MARINER)
By Peter Knego

Regent Seven Seas Cruises

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

All text and photographs copyright Peter Knego 2009 unless otherwise noted. Note: click on image to view a larger version.

Finalized: February 15, 2009

January 26, 2009

Emerging from the portal of REGAL EMPRESS 1950s vintage finery (see prior blog entry) into reality can be a bit sobering, if not downright distressing. Fortunately, our dose of the absolute was a merciful five minute and $9.00 taxi ride between Port Everglades’ Terminals 4 and 22, where we embarked Regent Seven Seas Cruise Line’s deluxe MV SEVEN SEAS MARINER for the first five of her 122 night Ring Of Fire cruise around South America and the Pacific.


Regent funnel.

The 50,000 gt, 700 passenger, all suite SEVEN SEAS MARINER is just back from a multi-million dollar refurbishment that will keep her at the forefront of the luxury cruise market for many more years. I was more than pleased to sample the new wares and spend the next few days luxuriating on a southerly course to Barbados.


Radisson Seven Seas funnel markings.

My first and only visit to the MARINER was in Los Angeles on the day of her christening for then owners, Radisson Seven Seas Cruises, on May 22, 2001. She struck me as a very spacious, elegant and low key ship.


Welcome aboard strings.

We were a tad early at 10:30 AM, which allowed plenty of time to obtain footage of the public areas before the ship filled with passengers that afternoon.


Atrium, facing up from Deck Five.

Champagne was being poured and the string trio tuned up to greet embarking guests in the Deck Five (bottom) level of the soaring, seven deck Atrium.


Newly added Prime 7 Grill, facing forward.

Part of Regent’s $40 million fleet enhancement program, the MARINER’s refit was miraculously rendered within a mere ten days at Freeport in early January. It not only saw the replacement of most of the original soft fittings with lively, contemporary colors but also included the installation of the Prime 7 Grill in place of the Asian-Fusion Latitudes restaurant.


The elegant Compass Rose dining room now sports cushioned arm chairs and a rich palette of merlot and chablis.

The respected marine architectural firm, Yran and Storbraaten of Oslo Norway (also currently designing sister company Oceania’s newbuilding MARINA) were at the helm of the SEVEN SEAS MARINER’s decorative transformation. A full before and after tour of the MARINER will appear in a forthcoming Decked! blog.


Aft from midships Deck Twelve.

The MARINER has eight passenger levels, ascending from Deck Five to Deck Twelve, connected fore and aft by wide stairtowers and banks of elevators. Public spaces are concentrated on Decks Five through Seven, Eleven and Twelve, sandwiching a wide variety of spacious outside suites, some of which are among the largest afloat.


Port La Veranda, facing aft.

By early afternoon, it was time to stow the cameras and head to La Veranda on aft Deck Eleven for a lovely buffet lunch.


Totally random La Veranda carpet shot.

La Veranda features full length windows and an al fresco, sheltered terrace aft. The port side now sports luxuriant shades of periwinkle versus starboard, which is done in a sea foam green. The comfortable, freshly reupholstered armchairs were originally from the Compass Rose.

We settled down at a table for two with a view of the Intracoastal Waterway and John Lloyd State Park through a patterned gauze curtain.


Buffet in La Veranda.

The La Veranda offerings (pasta, sandwiches, cheeses, breads, meats, fish, desserts and a separate pizza station) are presented on beautiful white china. I began my five day affair with the salad bar, developing a rather uncontrolled dependency on the fresh balsamic vinaigrette, accompanied with crumbled blue cheese and a mounds of parmesan. At the pasta station, the day’s special was a fettuccini with eggplant pomodoro sauce, which I enhanced with some extra garlic and sun dried tomatoes. The cook insisted on bringing it to the table, piping hot.


Sweets in La Veranda.

And the sweets! Thankfully, the ship’s gym was very well-equipped and ready for atonement.


Constellation Theater, facing starboard from Deck Five.

And the suites! At 2:30, ours was ready, so we proceeded to the Constellation Theater with the other embarking passengers (on Regent, check in is actually done on the ship -- guests are led to a comfortable seat, offered a beverage, called up for a quick signature and security photo, and issued their ship’s identity card).


Suite 902 facing port.

Located on forward port Deck Nine, Penthouse Suite 902 would be our home for the next five nights. At 449 square feet, including a 73 square foot balcony, it was more like a New York studio apartment.


Suite 902, facing starboard.

All accommodation on the MARINER features a king or two twin beds with Anichini linens and a feather-down duvet, a teak lined balcony with comfortable seating, separate sitting area, a personal safe, individual air conditioning controls, a mini bar that is restocked daily, a large flat screen television, a DVD player and a writing desk.


A corner of Suite 902’s walk-in closet.

The walk-in closet was almost as large as some cabins I have cruised in. Cotton robes and slippers are also provided. No wire hangers here!


Suite 902 w/c.

Our bathroom had a marvelous, glass-enclosed shower stall with overhead and hand-held shower units, ample storage space and plush cotton towels.


Cabin toiletries.

Tolietries included shampoo, conditioner, moisturizer, bath gel, a sewing kit, shoe shine cloth and cotton swabs, shower caps and two kinds of soap, all replenished on a regular basis.


Gloria in excellentis.

Our stewardess, Gloria, came to introduce herself and asked if there was anything we needed. I requested some more pillows, to which she responded, “What kind, sir? Down or foam?” I thought about it a minute, then asked for a couple of both. “Right away, sir!”


Gym, facing aft.

We unpacked, then headed to the excellent gym for a very quick romp on the ellipticals. A nice touch is the cooler with complimentary bottled water and Gatorade. Even the midnight blue gym towels are luxuriant. The only thing Regent doesn’t provide is the work out.


REGAL EMPRESS and SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR at Ft. Lauderdale.

At 4:45, we were up on deck to see who would be departing first. REGAL EMPRESS made the first maneuver, backing from Terminal 4 into the turning basin.


SEVEN SEAS MARINER to SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR at Ft. Lauderdale.


REGAL E sailing into the sunset.

As the REGAL EMPRESS exited the channel, MARINER’s lines began to loosen, and, with a slight rumble, her pods churned the waters into a boil. She and the NAVIGATOR, upper decks and balconies lined with toasting revelers, exchanged a rather boisterous salute. MARINER backed past her smaller fleetmate and into the basin. Meanwhile, the now distant yet ever earnest EMPRESS caught a glint of setting sun on her starboard flanks as she zig zagged on her southeasterly sprint to Nassau.


MV SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR at Fort Lauderdale.


Ft. Lauderdale shoreline.

It wasn’t long before the SEVEN SEAS MARINER had Fort Lauderdale in her wake. The winds licked at her upper decks with a winter-tinged tongue.


Observation Lounge, facing starboard.

We joined the press group in the Observation Lounge on forward Deck Twelve for canapĂ©s and cocktails as twilight fizzled into full-fledged darkness. The room’s handsome, yacht-inspired decor sports a new “sand and sea” palette of royal and midnight blue, beige and wood tones.

The MARINER began to pitch in the increasing swells. On the starboard horizon, a gently sheered line of twinkling lights was our final glimpse of the little REGAL EMPRESS.

Before I could set my near empty wine glass down, bartender Vincent was crossing the room to replenish it with more Australian shiraz.

Compass Rose, facing starboard from center.

Our next destination was the Compass Rose on Deck Five. A group of tables were ready for us underneath the domed ceiling compass centerpiece. This lovely space is an a la carte, open seating, dine when and with whom you please venue.

The pampering began almost immediately as the somellier presented the featured (included) wines. The evening's choices were a Dry Creek Fume Blanc from Sonoma and a marvelous Cline Cellars Cashmere red, also from California. A separate, extra tariff wine list was also available with various recommended reserves.


Compass Rose table setting.

Silver plate chargers, reidel stemware and ergonomic silver cutlery certainly make an elegant first impression. Add gold-fringed Porsgrund china and soft lighting, and the setting is perfection.

The freshly made artisan breads (not shown) are out of this world, especially the parmesan rolls, but more on those tomorrow....


Lady Bird Beetle lands on a Compass Rose?

Each course was a culinary work of art. Blame it on the wine, but my Marinated Mediterranean Vegetables and Ballotine of Turkey (tossed in sherry-poultry dressing and garnished with young field greens) appetizer resembled a hovering, Miro-vian lady bird beetle. Other equally gallery-worthy choices included a Seafood Rendezvous (prawns, crabmeat and baby shrimps in three sauces), Chilled Seasonal Fruit Cocktail (drizzled with triple sec) and Moules Mariniere (steamed black mussels with vegetable julienne, garlic, fresh herbs and white wine).

A slightly more austere looking but absolutely delicious Chilled Ratatouile Soup (not shown -- think Edvard Munch) was my next course. The alternates were Sweet Potato Soup (garnished with cumin-spiced plantains) and Beef Consomme Double (with vegetable crostini).


Marinated on the MARINER.

The salad courses included a Fresh Spinach With Yellow Cherry Tomatoes, Bacon and Chopped Eggs (dill mustard dressing) but I chose the Marinated Macaroni, Tomatoes, Corn and Basil (yogurt dressing with lemon juice, garlic and basil).


Presto: pesto!

At this point, any sense of hunger had given way to highly caloric self-indulgence. Of course, I did not need a pasta course, but could not resist a piatti of spaghetti pesto, doused in freshly grated parmesan. There was also a featured Spaghetti alla Neapoletana (meatballs in a rich tomato sauce) or a spaghetti bolognese. Bolognese, pomodoro and pesto are available each night with a different type of pasta.

A palette-cleansing “Intermezzo” of Kahlua sorbet followed.


Sable Fillet in Compass Rose.

For the Main Course, the following was available: Best of Pork With Roquefort Sauce (snap pea risotto with Champagne and chives and assorted spring veggies), Mustard and Herb Marinated Black Angus Rib Eye (mushroom stuffed baked potatoes and Hirocots Verts Sauce Marchand de Vin), Chicken Breast Stuffed With Avocado and French Camembert, Wrapped In Bacon (served with asparagus shavings, grilled mushrooms and plum tomatoes), Tofu Steak Marinated in Herb-Infused Virgin Olive Oil (on a bed of angel hair pasta with Aubergine sauce), Sirloin Steak of Black Angus Beef (grilled to preference), Salmon Fillet (prepared to order: poached, grilled, broiled or pan-fried) and Boneless Breast of Chicken. I chose a Broiled Sable Fish Fillet with Apple-Onion Compote (apple cider beurre blanc, snap peas and potatoes).


Dessert in Compass Rose.

A separate dessert menu followed. The left side offered International Cheeses with a glass of port wine, crackers, French bread and butter -- tempting. On the right side, there was Crepe Terrine with Citrus Sauce (Grand Marnier Flavored Creme Anglaise layered Between Swedish Pancakes), Low Carb Cranberry Orange Scrub (milk-honey-orange and cranberry flavored mousse with sugar free chocolate chip cookies), Creme Brulee, Raspberry New York Style Cheese Cake, Sugar Free Pineapple Cake, Ice Coupe Peach Melba (peach slices with vanilla ice cream, Strawberry sauce and toasted almonds, Refreshing Coffee Kahlua Sherbet or a selection of Premium Ice Creams. There was also my choice, Rhubarb Pudding (oven-baked rhubarb cake in cinnamon-vanilla sauce) with a dollup of Caramel Praline ice cream.


An altar of petites fours.

And, then, Petites Fours, or, as the menu prefers, Gourmandises. I had the multi-layered one on the right and a raspberry-topped mini chocolate tart.

After our leisurely dinner, we were off to see the show, “From Opera To Swing” by clarinetist Wojtek Mrozek and his wife, opera singer Agata Sava, accompanied by the Regent Signature Orchestra in the Constellation Theater. Their ecclectic performance included Henry Mancini’s “Baby Elephant Walk”, a tune we had coincidentally been humming earlier in the day.

A nightcap in the Observation Lounge followed, then it was back to the plush confines of Suite 902 to watch the ever-hilarious mockumentary DVD, “Jackie’s Back” on the flat screen as the MARINER plunged onward, en route to St. Barts.

January 27, 2009


En suite breakfast, Cabin 902.

What better way to be awakened on our first morning, than with a full breakfast, on RSSC’s fine china, set up in the sitting area with a view over the surging sea? Capriciously, we had checked off far too many items, from fresh orange juice to Swiss muesli, cheese omelets and coffee, but it was the smoked salmon (served with cream cheese, sliced onions, tomatoes, capers and a toasted bagel) that stole the show.


MARINER boat drill muster.

A most civil emergency drill muster was held in the Constellation Theater at 10:15. Thorough, to the point, and in a comfortable seat instead of the usual boat deck human sandwich.


Chapeaux commandants.


Over bow from bridge.

It was a fine morning for a bridge tour, so once the life vests were stowed, we gathered with the media group for a tour of the MARINER’s state of the art wheelhouse, courtesy of one of the ship’s French officers.


Force Six from starboard wing.

The seas were a Force Six, enough to make the MARINER pitch and toss off the occasional rainbow-inflected spray.


Aft La Veranda, facing port.


Afterthoughts.

Lunchtime at La Veranda was enjoyed on the terrace, overlooking a gurgling trail of pod-churned foam eleven or so decks below. Salad, pasta, sweets -- it was an all-too-predictable, if utterly satisfying, and delicious routine.


Coffee Connection, facing aft.

For our early afternoon pick-me-up, we adjourned to the Coffee Connection on Deck Six. I ordered a double cappuccino, made with fresh Lavazza coffee. Rob opted for a chilled chai concoction.


Frothy Faye.

Attendant Faye wanted to know where we were sitting so she could bring the orders over to us. We told her we could wait but she insisted, so we grabbed a newspaper and settled in a corner overlooking the promenade. Can’t do anything on your own on this ship!

Coffee was eventually followed by a leisurely afternoon workout, with an emphasis on the ellipticals. Uphill, downhill, side to side, occasionally assisted or impaired by the ship’s lurching.


Natural wave generations.

Although the wind was fierce, Deck Eleven beckoned. We took a dip in the pool, whose refreshing salt water was a constant, yet captive wave in a beautifully tiled basin.


No galley tour should begin without a welcome glass of champagne.

Late that afternoon, the MARINER’s Chef de Cuisine, 30 year old Dutchman, Mike Mulden, led us through the catacombs of the ship’s galley and stores on Decks Five and Four. Our first stop was the silver cleaning area, where all the ship’s silver flatware is dipped and polished each night.


Main galley.

In the main galley area, the din is so loud at peak hours that microphones and head sets are sometimes required for placing orders. There are over four thousand recipes available on a twenty four night cycle, meaning no menu items are repeated in that period.


Dessert gallery in the galley.

In one section of the galley, desserts and gourmandises (petits-fours) are prepared on an artful assembly line.


Vegetable stores.

The MARINER had taken on seven containers’ worth of supplies in Fort Lauderdale (fresh fruits, vegetables, fresh and frozen fish, USDA choice meats, cartons of beverages, etc.) for the 122 day cruise, some of which were still being sorted.


Pastry Chef Kevin Lee.

The pastry chefs deserve extra special praise for their wonderful, crispy, flaky creations!


Schonwald 7.

Without even consulting a numerologist, at seven, seven of us gathered in Prime 7 for dinner, where the specially commissioned logo china is by Schonwald of Germany.


Primer.

To begin, a round of Kobe-style beef “burgers” is brought to the table.


Ahi tuna tartare, Prime 7 style.

The ahi tuna tartar starter was artful and quite tasty, according to Rob.


Prime Caesar.

Not the ultimate surf and turf guy, I began with a caesar salad replete with a generous heap of parmesan shavings.


Prime 7 Chicken.

My main course was a simple but delicious roasted chicken served on an iron skillet that was soon embellished with truffle fries, asparagus and green beans which we passed around family style. Other popular courses were prime cuts of beef (Porterhouse, Fillet Mignon, New York), lamb, veal and lobster.


Key lime in Prime.

The key lime pie seems to have won the consensus for best dessert, although it did get a pretty hefty challenge from the 14 layer mocha cake and a banana crumble doused in apple caramel sauce.

January 28, 2009

A perfect day, really. Not much to report of interest other than a very late sleep-in, more views of the surging seas (they notched up to a Force Seven overnight), a few squalls (one off our port side burst with a prism of color in the bright sunlight), the requisite cappuccinos, lunch in La Veranda, another workout, sunning in a padded deck chair on Deck Eleven (each with a cocktail table and attendant waiting to fulfill a beverage request). Can it get any better?

We did manage to take a break from all the indulgence for a little mental enrichment at 2:00 PM in the never more appropriately-named Constellation Lounge for guest speaker astronomer/naturalist David Aguilar’s “The Forty Minute Universe”. With spectacular videos and projections on the large screens behind him, he basically told us in layman’s terms how the universe was born and will eventually die. This was just the first in a series of talks offered during the Ring Of Fire cruise.


Tea berries.

We missed tea the prior two days, so made sure to be in the Horizon Lounge at 4:00. Today, there was a theme, “Strawberry Heaven”, with all sorts of strawberry concoctions laid out center stage.


Horizon tea savories.

There were also some savories to enjoy in the corner next to the freshly-baked scones. We filled up a couple plates, let the tea pour, and even joined in on the daily quiz, albeit with disastrous results.


Aft Deck Six, facing aft.

Just outside, the seas surged quite enthusiastically. One particularly nice spot on the MARINER is the open terrace on Aft Deck Six, although today it was a bit drenched in salty spray.


Starboard Deck Six promenade, facing forward.

On the starboard Deck Six promenade, there were some dramatic views as we plunged onward.

It was formal night, so we eventually donned our black tie gear and joined the media group for dinner in Prime 7, once more. The crab cakes started me off nicely, leading into a caesar salad, fillet of sole and sides of asparagus and truffle fries. I decided to give the camera a rest, so, sorry, no food images tonight!

Broadway style shows on most cruise ships utilize click tracks, where the orchestra and even the singing is pre-recorded. Tonight, we enjoyed a real live show in the Constellation Lounge with the eight piece Regent Orchestra and attractive, talented ten member Regent Singers and Dancers cast. “Broadway in Concert” featured some familiar material from the likes of “Cats” and “Oklahoma” as well as a few surprises, with tunes from “Jersey Boys” and “Hairspray” to liven things up.


MARINER stack illuminated.

Limoncellos and more red wine in the Mariner Lounge were followed by limoncellos and more red wine in the Observation Bar before a walk around the breezy but somewhat balmy upper decks.

January 29, 2009

If our southbound oceanic sojourn of indulgence and relaxation had to come to an end, St. Barts was as good a place as any to leave our sea days behind. My first and last visit to this tropical, eight square mile slice of St. Tropez was aboard Fred. Olsen’s BALMORAL last year. We had a limited call of just a few hours, enough to allow for a circle island zodiac tour for a tempting speed ride through its astoundingly clear, turquoise waters. I vowed when I returned that I would have to spend a day on the beach, so we fulfilled that yen by opting for a full day rental car through the SEVEN SEAS MARINER’s shore excursion desk ($150 inclusive of all taxes).


Going ashore supplies.

We had to go ashore on the 9:00 AM tender to meet the rental car agent, deliver the requisite paperwork and secure the car as there is apparently more demand than supply. Meanwhile, Regent never misses an opportunity to provide for its guests, as evidenced by the umbrella stand and gratis bottled water at the tender gangway.


MV SEVEN SEAS MARINER at St. Barts.

After a fifteen minute boat ride past our handsome ship and some rather ostentatious super yachts, we disembarked in the red roofed haven of Gustavia. We did not put it to the test but were warned repeatedly that a coffee or lunch in one of its charming cafes could cause financial hardship.

Gustavia is named for Gustav III of Sweden. St. Barts was claimed by the French in 1648, sold to the Swedes in 1784 and then sold back to the French a century later. Much of the architecture has a Swedish feel to it but there is no mistaking this is a French enclave.


MARINER to Gustavia, St. Barts.

Rob enjoys a challenge much more than me, so he was our designated driver, which is a very good thing. Our map was almost unintelligible and the roads in many places are not only windy and steep, but lack guard rails. Not so great for acrophobic bloggers.

We managed to find our first beach, Saline, which is located on the south side of the island. A short trek past a salt pond, along a rocky path, over a small dune, and voila! An absolutely lovely stretch of white sand and turquoise waters. It was very nice but the rip current was somewhat off-putting, so we packed it up and headed for the beach at the top of every “A” list: Gouverneur’s.


Gouverneur’s Beach below.

All the way back through Gustavia and then up a small mountain, Gouverneur’s finally came into view.


Welcome to Gouverneur’s Beach.

St. Barts’ key beaches sport handsome hand painted tile placards at the entrance and all are accessible, as well as free.


Gouverneur’s Beach, St. Barts.

Alas, Gouverneur’s was, indeed, beautiful but the waves were more like mini-tsunamis. The embankment dropped off suddenly and the breakers smashed right onto the shore, so swimming was “at your own risk”. The sand was spectacular and the sun scorching. We lasted about twenty minutes before heading onward to our next beach. Goldilocks had nothing on us.


St. B “cruisers”: Teijo Neimela, Tom Cassidy, Rob Di Stefano.

There are two gas stations on the island. One was closed and the attendant supervising the second was away until 2:00 PM. We tried to swipe our credit cards at the pump, but it only took those with a special security chip. The result was that we had plenty of time to find something else to do, so we stopped at the top of the hill overlooking the airport where fellow journalist (and famed Cruise Critic blogger), Teijo Neimela, was plane-spotting. In St. Barts, a favorite pastime is watching the commuter aircraft drop precariously onto a very short runway that basically ends at St. Jean’s beach. A few planes have gone a little further than they intended to...


St. Barts landing. Photo by Rob Di Stefano.

They come in literally a few dozen yards overhead and drop suddenly to the runway for what must be a white knuckle ride. I think I’d rather stick to visiting this enchanting little island by sea.


A pot of gold at the end of the runway: Plage St. Jean, St. Barts. Sunbathing in this particular spot not recommended.

St. Jean’s Beach was actually our next destination. For us, it was lucky number three, in terms of beach-hunting.


Plage St. Jean, St. Barts.

The water was like a Chanel No. 5 advert. and the waves were actually ride-able, so we took the plunge. A line of boutique hotels fronts the beach. One had its own outdoor cafe with a bar tender, cold beers and a cappuccino maker.


St. Barts coastline.

There was still some time left before the gas station opened, so we took another drive around the island, along some spectacular, if rugged beaches, before returning to Gustavia.


A misty MARINER.

Here is where I have to offer a huge thanks to the SEVEN SEAS MARINER’s tender driver, Ignacio. He was kind enough to circle the ship for us as we rode back and forth. On our second pass, a huge squall came up and inundated everything before heading across the channel towards St. Maarten.

We were back on board just in time for tea and another embarrassing attempt at the quiz (we really thought “trunk” was both a human body part and a box but the answer was “chest”).

The rest of the night was very low key. Dinner in Compass Rose where the food and service were brilliant, then back to suite 902 to, well, work.

January 30, 2009


Roseau, Dominica.

Dominica is a lush, volcanic island with a beautiful rain forest, geothermal springs and renowned dive sites. This was my first visit since 1992, when I took a full day’s excursion aboard the 1959-built ROTTERDAM.


SEVEN SEAS MARINER at Roseau, Dominica.

In lieu of a tour, we chose to enjoy the comfort of the MARINER, although I did manage to get ashore for a few photos of the ship and a walk through the town of Roseau.


Roseau, Dominica.

There is not much to see or do in this particular port town, which seemed a bit rough in spots. I wouldn’t recommend it for a self-guided tour, especially for anyone venturing on their own. However, the rest of the island does have a number of attractions, such as tours to a Carib Indian reservation, Trafalgar Falls, the evocatively named Emerald Pool, river tubing and the rainforest aerial tram.


SEVEN SEAS MARINER Face.

I had a chance to wander the ship and get all the shots left on my check list, including a view aft from the crew deck on the fo’c’sle head.


Deck Nine laundry, facing starboard.

The rest of the day was spent enjoying the near empty ship for lunch, tea and getting some logistical things taken care of, such as laundry. On Decks Ten, Nine and Eight, there are self-service laundries complete with gratis detergent, furnished with the original seating from La Veranda.


Signatures, facing aft.

Our final dinner was held in Signatures, the reservations-only, Cordon Blu-style a la carte French restaurant on aft Deck Six. For men, a jacket with optional tie dress code is enforced and for women, a pantsuit or dress is recommended.


Signature setting.

The vividly-patterned black and white Versace chargers stand out in the room’s newly rendered deep blue and olive color scheme.


Signature sorbet.

Magnificent bread with balsamic vinegar and olive oil or Signature’s specialty truffle parmesan butter, began the round of courses, accompanied either by a Chablis Premier Cru, Mason LaborĂ© Roi Burgundy or a Medoc AC Reserve Speciale, Baton Lafite de Rothschild Bordeaux. The entrĂ©es (starters) ranged from Lobster Medallions with Seafood Vinaigrette, Scallops Marinated in Herb Oil, a Foie Gras Terrine, and a Cassoulet of Snails “Signatures Style” to Crabmeat With Asparagus and my choice, a Camembert Quiche with Celery and Walnut. I followed with the Surprise Chicken Consomme Perfumed with Truffle. Other soup choices included Creamy Mushroom with Candied Garlic and a Crustacean Bisque. A lovely pear Williams sorbet cleansed the palette.


Fillet of Halibut With Pistachio Oil and a Duo of Spinach and Herb-Marinated Tomatoes.

An amazing line up of plats principaux included Fillet of Halibut (above), Sauteed Salmon Fillet with a Mixture of Vegetables Barigoule Style, Potato Pithiviers (puff pastry pie) with Spinach Leaf Salad, Rack of Lamb with Mushrooms and Melted Potato Garnishes, Tenderloin of Veal With Eggplant Caviar Stuffed Tomatoes, Beef Tournedos Rossini with Glazed Vegetable Bouqetiere in Perigeux style.


Creme brulée to end the day!

I went “simple and light” (yeah, right!) with the Tahitian Vanilla Creme BrullĂ©e with Candied Fruits and Vanilla Ice Cream. Other choices included a Warmed Chocolate Tart with Raspberries, Cherry Griottes soft cake with light lemon cream, and a Port Wine Poached Fig with Fromage Blanc Mille-Feuille, Vanilla Sabayon and Roasted Walnuts.

On this final evening, we watched as guest artist, David Dimuzio juggled, sang, joked and unicycled (with machetes) his way across the main stage. From there, it was off to hop a few bars, from the Mariner Lounge, where bartender Jan delivered a glass of red something before I could even turn around and request one, to the Horizon Lounge, where the MARINER's tossing was most prominent.

Was it really 2:45 AM when we finally left the Stars Bar?

January 31, 2009

I’ve become well acquainted with Barbados Airport from several recent trips, although its pink sand beaches have thus far been very elusive. After disembarking the MARINER, which continued onwards to circumnavigate South America and the Pacific, it was time to leave the Regent Seven Seas pampering, gourmet cuisine and sterling service behind and face the real world.

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Andrew Poulton, Tim Rubacky

Thursday, 22 January 2009

Return To The REGAL E
by Peter Knego

Imperial Majesty Cruises

MV REGAL EMPRESS History and Tour on MaritimeMatters

Regally Impressed Sea Treks Blog

Regaled By The REGAL E Blog

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

All text and photographs copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted. Note: click on image to view a larger version.

Finalized: February 2, 2009




January 23, 2009


REGAL EMPRESS cuts through a calm Bahamian sea.

I make it a point to return to Imperial Majesty Cruises grand little REGAL EMPRESS every year for a 48 hour “savor-fest” of her now one-of-a-kind vintage features. At best, she has a few months to go before SOLAS 2010 puts a final coda on her long and varied career, which began in 1953 for now defunct Greek Line’s transatlantic liner and off-season cruise service (click here for the MV REGAL EMPRESS History and Tour on MaritimeMatters).

Since my most recent cruise in the ship last March , she has made headlines twice. First, in October for a charter to FEMA housing Hurricane Ike relief workers at Galveston, TX, and then in December when an eight night “Yes, We Can!” charter cruise to Baltimore was announced for people interested in attending President Obama’s inauguration on January 20.

As it turned out, the Obama charter fell through, freeing up the ship for her previously scheduled three night cruise on January 23, which tied in perfectly with my plans to visit Florida. I was particularly delighted to have that third day to explore and document all the nooks, crannies, and fixtures that make this ship so special.

And, before I go any further, I suppose I should insert my usual disclaimer so that people do not go on board this historic former ocean liner expecting swirling water slides, vertiginous rock climbing walls, shimmering glass verandahs, triple deck showrooms, eleven eateries, and the usual squared off, glittering modern cruise ship hardware. There are plenty of ships offering such things but only one with acres of gorgeously polished empire hardwoods, nickel light sconces, acid-etched glass, teak decks (installed long before teak was exploited into endangered status), gracious curves and decades of history that speak to the willing listener with every creak and rattle the REGAL EMPRESS emits. In exchange, an occasional faucet may dribble, then spatter, some passageways barely clear a tall man’s scalp (while others end as suddenly as they appear), and locating a rather spartan lower deck cabin may take a few attempts.


Totally random, non pariel paneling shot.

Fifty six in ship years is a very, very long time. At the equivalent of her age (112, perhaps? -- the two-to-one, ship-to-human age ratio is as good an estimate as any), we should all be so lucky to be in such condition, fully functioning and still doing what we were designed to do.

As the modest OLYMPIA, she shared the busy mid-1950s Manhattan passenger ship terminals with the likes of the LIBERTE, AMERICA, ANDREA DORIA, UNITED STATES, QUEEN ELIZABETH, ILE DE FRANCE, QUEEN MARY, SATURNIA, STATENDAM and dozens of other long since vanished ocean liners of the day. And when she returned as CARIBE I in the early 1980s, she was part of a cruise fleet that included the NORWAY, ROTTERDAM, MARDI GRAS, FESTIVALE, CARNIVALE, CARLA C, BRITANIS, THE VICTORIA, AMERIKANIS and many more that have all transitioned to the seas of ether.

Still with me? Then let’s head once more into the blue with the one and only REGAL EMPRESS. And maybe, just maybe, if the ship gods are kind and merciful, it will not be for the very last time, after all.

From taxi trunk to gangway, the boarding process was a svelte twenty minutes. Everyone at each stage (and some of the faces are beginning to look very familiar) was pleasant and welcoming. Upon entering the ship, a white-gloved staff member greeted my traveling companion, Rob Di Stefano and me and tried to lead us to our cabin, U109 on starboard Upper Deck. I only say “tried”, since we were a bouncy step ahead of him and very familiar with the surroundings.


Cabin U109, facing starboard.

U109 was one of the suites added late in OLYMPIA’s career when she was converted from part time transatlantic service to full-time one class cruising. Sporting pale wood-toned melamine paneling, it and the other cabins in this portion of the ship replaced the then redundant but utterly groovy Zebra Room. U109 is very spacious with a queen bed, separate sitting area, large brass-framed windows and loads of storage space. Adjacent to the Purser’s Office and forward stairtower, it would be a fine home for the next three nights.

Our usual “REGAL routine” consists of unpacking, then heading immediately up to La Trattoria on aft/starboard Promenade Deck for the lunch buffet offerings. It was especially nice on this sunny but moderate day to sit in a shaded booth adjacent to the pool bar and consume a bit of salad, barbequed chicken and the ship’s uniquely doughy sugar cookies with a cup of tea. But it was not long before the cameras began twitching, insisting on being freed to snap away at all the history and midcentury maritime features in our midst.


Port Sun Deck, facing aft.

This afternoon, I would focus on the outer decks and superstructure. Of course, since my first visit to the REGAL E, way back when she was CARIBE I in 1983, I have been on board for countless inspections and no less than seven cruises. I have thousands of images of the ship in my archives and yet am compelled to continue clicking away in every conceivable format.


CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION at Fort Lauderdale.

At 4:30 CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION pulled away from her berth, just as boat drill began. I lingered as long as possible to capture her imposing departure before heading to station seven on the starboard side, just in time for roll call.


REGAL EMPRESS and CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION outbound at Fort Lauderdale. Photo and copyright Bill Hoey 2009.

We were well underway when muster ended, so I crossed back to the port side in the shadow of the bridge wing, keeping the lifejacket tucked between my knees as REGAL EMPRESS sailed into the windy channel. Bill and Katy Hoey were among those gathered on the north shore balconies saluting as our ship responded with several gusty whistle blasts.


Commodore caprail.

ISLAND PRINCESS and NOORDAM were the next to be unleashed, entering the channel as we zig zagged on a southeasterly course to Nassau.


Horse racing by the pool.

The pool area was alive and kicking with revelers gathered for Happy Hour and the horse race. REGAL E began her gentle bobbing as the cool winds and seas picked up.


Outbound sternset.


NOORDAM nears.

I wandered the aft tiers for views of the sunset, then settled down at the fantail to watch as NOORDAM picked up speed off our port stern. I couldn’t help but think the larger ship had the better view.


Olympian Hallmark.


Olympian Hall/Caribbean Restaurant, facing aft.


Olympic sconce.

At 7:15, we were at our “usual” table, number one, at the aft/port entrance to the Caribbean Restaurant, which has changed little, save for the chairs and some additional chandeliers, since its original incarnation as OLYMPIA’s tourist class Olympian Hall. There is no space afloat that rivals its vintage charm and absolutely stunning maple paneling, which literally glows in the starry luminescence of the nickel wall sconces along its perimeter.


Gazpacho.


Selwin, Rob Di Stefano and the pepper mill.

Our Goanese waiter, Selwyn and assistant waiter, Eliecer, brought a delicious assortment of courses, from the goat cheese and filo dough appetizer to the spicy gazpacho soup (billed as creamy tomato) and a salad to the catch of the day (a buttery, lemon and caper-drenched sea bass). It was another dinner on REGAL EMPRESS to best anything offered on her mass market competition, even before considering the added glory of the honey-hued woodwork, polished nickel, paintings and marquetry.


High calor-e-onic.

Dinner ended with one of the ship’s fantastically flaky Napoleons.

The red-eye flight from California meant no post dinner social life or show in deference to a much-needed night of long sleep.

January 24, 2009


A wing, some clouds and a prayer.

At 7:15, I was up and out to forward Sun Deck to watch as REGAL EMPRESS motored past the lighthouse and into Nassau harbor. At the far end of the terminal complex, NCL’s NORWEGIAN SKY shared the outer quay with the COSTA FORTUNA.


Pirouetting before the NORWEGIAN SKY and COSTA FORTUNA on a sunny Nassau morning.

REGAL EMPRESS spun slowly around and backed in to the terminal adjacent to the Front Street shopping area. Once we had berthed, I grabbed a cup of tea and some eggs from the buffet. Another REGAL EMPRESS fan, Eric Beeson, stopped by to visit for a few moments before heading off with his family to swim with the dolphins on one of the highly-promoted shore excursions.


Facing FORTUNA.

I returned to Sun Deck for a photo or two of the perfectly lit COSTA FORTUNA, then spotted an incoming Carnival FANTASY class ship. As I wanted some shots of REGAL E from across the basin, I raced over to the middle pier before the view was obscured.


CARNIVAL IMAGINATION nudges into Nassau.

The CARNIVAL IMAGINATION took the far side, after all, allowing me to document her arrival before snapping a leisurely series of clips and images of REGAL EMPRESS.


MV REGAL EMPRESS at Nassau.


Cruiser stern lines.


Bahamian bollard to bow.

Once back on board, I took advantage of the empty public spaces for yet another detailed docu-fest.


Time Passages: Midships Sun to Promenade Deck stairtower strata.


Aft Restaurant to A Deck stairtower.

The nickel railing in the stairtower connecting the aft lobby on Restaurant Deck to A Deck is exactly like that found on Elder Dempster Line’s RMMV AUREOL of 1951, a ship built by the same shipyard, Alexander Stephen and Sons, and in many ways a prototype of SS OLYMPIA.


OLYMPIA chair in the Casino.

A gathering of original OLYMPIA chairs surrounds the Texas Hold ‘Em table in the aft/port section of the Monte Carlo Casino.


Left to right: Ranito Sabino, Peter Knego, Shelley Smith. Photo by Rob Di Stefano.

This was my third time on board with Ranito, the ship’s housekeeper extraordinaire. He was just finishing up his 8:00 PM to 8:00 AM shift and stopped to visit in the Purser’s Lobby.


Main Deck gallery, facing aft.

I finished up most of the public rooms and captured the Caribbean Restaurant on HD before joining Rob for lunch, which included Chicken Stracciatella Soup, Greens With Feta Cheese, Chicken Cacciatore and a Cherry Strudel. An influx of passengers returning from their various shore excursions soon followed.


Reflections of REGAL E.

RCCL’s recently transfered MONARCH OF THE SEAS completed the Nassau line-up, taking the berth across from us. Rob and I ventured off in the early afternoon to visit Starbucks and attempt to post the beginning of this blog but the signal was out.


Nassau blogging.

We returned to the ship for tea and cookies on deck, then watched as COSTA FORTUNA sailed off in the twilight, followed swiftly by the NORWEGIAN SKY. As REGAL EMPRESS cast her lines, dinner was being served. Tonight, the courses would include fried mozzarella, chicken veloutĂ© soup and cheese ravioli. Afterwards, we headed to “Name That Tune” in the Grand Lounge, hosted by new Canadian cruise director, Jonathan, then the Behavin’ Bahamian Beach Party on deck before calling it a relatively early night.

January 25, 2009


REGAL EMPRESS Library, facing aft. Stitched photo by and copyright Bill Hoey 2009. Note: This one is worth clicking on!

On the usual two night REGAL EMPRESS cruises I’ve made in the past, at this point in the journey, I’d be up on Sun Deck watching our return to Fort Lauderdale. With the extra day, it would be a far more leisurely and enjoyable morning, beginning with a trek to the walnut paneled Library, which can be hired out for weddings and use as a conference room. Hard to decide what is more beautiful between the carved Greek Line medallions or the Ware painting of London on the forward bulkhead.


Walnut Library Greek Line crest.


REGAL EMPRESS Library, facing forward.


Grand Lounge blown glass windows.

Other little details called out for documentation, once more.


Homeward bow-nd.


REGAL EMPRESS navigation officers.


Aft from port wing.

Meanwhile, on the bridge, it was basically little more than “hove to” as the REGAL meandered in the calm seas, under a perfect, temperate, sunny sky. Off on our port side, we passed the Great Stirrup Cay out island where two large cruise ships were anchored.


Seventy two times around the Sun Deck equals 10.28571428571 miles.

Rob and I took advantage of the wrap-around teak promenade on Sun Deck to do some jogging. It was all undone by lunch and tea that afternoon.


MV REGAL EMPRESS over stern at sea.

Deck chairs were filled and a number of activities were held in the pool area, including a vegetable carving demonstration. This was much like leisurely cruising of days gone by on the last classic ship in American waters.


Cruising stern.


Lustrous lift.


’Tween davit sunset.

Nightfall came too quickly, but not before a magical sunset shone a flattering magenta light on all who gathered to watch. It was the perfect day to remember the REGAL EMPRESS by.


First class “fish marquet”.

Dinner, drinks with Eric and Tracy Beeson in the port recess of the Commodore Club, a bit of the show (tonight, it was a singer/impersonator who did a wicked Tom Jones’ “Delilah”), the Latin Party at the buffet and pool (where the ship’s singer covered some contemporary tunes), a linger under the Milky Way and various constellations on forward Sun Deck, and finally off to U109 for some sleep. Well, not quite just yet -- I almost forgot to document the beautiful marquetry bits in the former First Class dining room, now the officers’ dining room, on Restaurant Deck.

January 26, 2009


Crossing “CARIBEs”: MV DISCOVERY SUN from MV REGAL EMPRESS off Fort Lauderdale.

By the time I made it up to Sun Deck, the hotels and condos along the South Florida coast were well in view. In Fort Lauderdale, there were three large white ships in port. I knew one of them was Regent’s SEVEN SEAS MARINER as she was our next destination. As we got closer, I could see the others were Regent’s SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR and Residensea’s floating condo, THE WORLD. Meanwhile, a plume of orange-ish smoke in the channel belonged to none other than Discovery Cruises’ Freeport-bound DISCOVERY SUN. She and REGAL EMPRESS shared common ancestry in that they each sailed for Commodore Cruise Lines as the CARIBE. DISCOVERY SUN and REGAL EMPRESS exchanged whistle salutes shortly after we picked up the pilot.


Residensea’s THE WORLD at Ft. Lauderdale.


Fourteen Seas: MV SEVEN SEAS MARINER plus MV SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR at Fort Lauderdale.

From Sun Deck, I could hear as Captain Stavros Kontas and the pilot maneuvered REGAL EMPRESS to her berth. The captain was also master of OCEANBREEZE (ex SOUTHERN CROSS, CALYPSO I) and very proud of his current former Greek flagship.


Watching you watching me on the REGAL E. Photo by and copyright Bill Hoey 2009.

I positioned myself on the starboard side with video camera propped atop the searchlight, hoping to capture the Hoeys on their balcony as they apparently were doing the same in reverse.

Alas, it was time to wrap up yet another REGAL EMPRESS cruise, one filled with yet more happy sea trekking memories.

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Rob Di Stefano, Captain Stavros Kontas, Glenn Ryerson, Ranito Sabino, Shelley Smith

END