MSC FANTASIA Inaugural and Christeningby Peter Knego

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Thursday, December 18, 2008


MSC FANTASIA at Naples.

“Please, mister, you must now shut off and put away your camera,” admonished the Alitalia flight attendant as our plane descended over Naples. Quite frustratingly, through a break in the clouds that had recently flooded much of Italy, MSC Cruises’ massive new FANTASIA was just entering the historic harbor. Vesuvius, distant Capri -- it was all magnificently laid out and begging for one quick, clandestine click but the attendant lingered. Even from 7,000 feet, photographing ships can be a challenge.


Stazione FANTASIA.


REX immortalis.

Two hours later, I was with a small cluster of American media in a long queue at the glorious Stazione Marittima, former terminus of Italia’s gallant REX, CONTE DI SAVOIA, RAFFAELLO, MICHELANGELO and dozens of other lamented floating legends. Now bedecked in blue banners welcoming “The Most Beautiful Ship In The World”, the terminal was dwarfed by the 133,500 gt MSC FANTASIA (actually nearly the combined size of MICHELANGELO, RAFFAELLO and REX) tethered to its inner berth.


Flying jellyfish.

Fortunately, the terminal was an aesthetic diversion. My friend Christopher Kyte remarked that Mussolini was famously described descending its grand staircase as "an overstuffed tomato in a white napkin".

Billowing magenta and violet chenille Man O’Wars hovered in the ceiling recesses along with more blue banners and “coral” clusters fashioned out of enameled branches. I would soon learn that the coral motif has been chosen to represent “MSC Cruises’ love of the sea and respect for the environment”.


Line up at Le Vele.


FANTASIA Category 10 outside cabin 12119 facing port.


FANTASIA Zanzibar Cafeteria, facing aft from port.

Finally, we were given our boarding cards and directed to the gangway. A line up of stewards and stewardesses greeted us in the lobby. One may have offered to take us to our room but we found it easily on our own. We left our luggage in comfortable, pleasantly hued cabin 12119, a Category 10 outside double with verandah on port Incanto Deck (12).

Our next stop was the Cafe Zanzibar on aft Miraggio Deck (14) for some food and a cappuccino to fuel a marathon documenting spree.


FANTASIA facing forward from aft Sun Deck (18).


FANTASIA funnel from starboard aft Sun Deck (18).


FANTASIA aft port Sun Deck (18), facing aft.


FANTASIA Le Privé, facing aft.


FANTASIA Formula One Simulator.


FANTASIA Il Polo Nord, facing south.


Aft Aurora Deck (16), facing forward from starboard.


FANTASIA Restaurant L’Etoile, facing port.

The rest of the afternoon would enable me to photograph a significant portion of the ship.

Initial descriptive adjectives: brass, huge, more brass, gold, razzle dazzle, swirls, semicircles, circles, fiberoptic, Farcusian. Milan-based Studio de Jorio, the FANTASIA's design team, seems to have been inspired or influenced by the Carnival, RCCL and NCL megaships. There are conceptual spaces (African-inspired cafe, a graffiti-on-sheet-metal paneled teen center, faux palm trees in the pool area, and even a Tex Mex cafe with a Cadillac popping through the faux brick bulkhead), a casino with enough glitz to outshine Vegas and a showroom flanked with Gehry-esque metal panels. In joining the megaship ranks, MSC may have decided the days of quiet, understated Italian elegance are over and they may be on to something. Remember the near panic purists had when Carnival's "wild and crazy" Joseph Farcus was given decorative control of the since hugely successful Costa newbuilds?

Swooning at the sublime sweep of the generously-proportioned funnel, I began on aft Sun Deck (18), worked my way down through the crown-shaped/space ship structure housing the Disco, F1 Simulator, Playroom, Teen Center, Sports Arena and then aft to L’Etoile (French a la carte restaurant) and Lido Catalano on Splendido Deck (15).


FANTASIA midships Miragio Deck (14), facing forward.


Aurea Spa.


FANTASIA Yacht Club staircase lobby “swirl” facing starboard from Aurora Deck (16).


FANTASIA Yacht Club staircase lobby “swirl” facing port from Aurora Deck (16).


FANTASIA Yacht Club Top Sail Lounge, facing port.


FANTASIA Yacht Club Royal Suite 16007 sitting area, facing port/forward.


FANTASIA Yacht Club standard suite 16009 facing port.

From there, it was forward, past the open midships Miraggio Deck (14) Acqua Park pool and whirlpools to the enclosed I Tropici Piscina Coperta (magrodome-enclosed pool) to the MSC Aurea Spa and then up to the exclusive "ship within a ship" Yacht Club area with its forwad-facing Top Sail lounge, concierge area and cabins.

By twilight, the top decks of the ship were checked off my list.

We were assigned to the limited open seating dinner in the L’Africana/Zanzibar Restaurant (basically with the same buffet offerings we had at lunch) and after our long commutes, decided to call it an early day.

A full tour is forthcoming on Decked!.

Friday, December 19, 2008


Vesuvio!


Christening magnum.

Thanks to jet lag and the usual insomnia, I was up and at it with the cameras at 6:30 AM. Outside our balcony, the ever fascinating port of Naples was host to a variety of ferries and ro/ros. In the distance, fog was beginning to clear from the lower slopes of a partially obscured, snow-capped Vesuvius.


Facing FANTASIA.


Cadillac ahoy in El Sombrero Tex Mex!


Swirl of gold detail.


Stairtower swirls.


FANTASIA Reception Lobby, facing port from Magnifico Deck (6).


FANTASIA Reception Lobby, facing aft from Magnifico Deck (6).


FANTASIA Reception Lobby, facing up from Fantasia Deck (5).


Swarovski steps.


FANTASIA Il Cappuccino, facing port.


FANTASIA Le Vele, facing aft.


FANTASIA Blue Vestibule.

I would tackle most of the ship’s public rooms on Sublime (7), Magnifico (6) and Fantasia (5) Decks before joining friends at 1:00 PM in the aft-situated Il Cerchio d’Oro Restaurant.


MSC Cruises President, Pierfrancesco Vago (l) and Domenico Pellegrino (r).

At 2:00 PM, Formula One driver Jarno Trulli officially opened the ship’s F1 simulator but I decided it was more important to secure a good seat in the L’Insolito Lounge for the press conference with MSC’s top executives. The conference began late and went well overtime.


La Loren.

By 4:00, the room was mobbed with paparazzi and an SRO crowd, anticipating a Q and A with Lucio Dalla (the Elton John of Italy), famed Renzo Arbore (leader of Orchestra Italiana) and silver screen legend and FANTASIA’s godmother Sophia Loren. Troops of Armani model type security guards sternly demanded the camera-clad clusters cleared the area in front of the stage. It took almost 30 minutes to make enough space for the Oscar-winning icon and her entourage to enter the room. Loren has just wrapped shooting on the film version of the musical “9”, co starring Nicole Kidman and Judi Dench.


River Plate fashion plate addresses la Loren.

The questions were mainly in Italian but one interesting moment came when a fashion editor from Buenos Aires (accompanied by a leggy blonde aspiring model) asked Ms. Loren to divulge her secret for eternal beauty. The throaty, shrugging response, “If I told you, it would no longer be a secret. Some people have it and some people don’t.” Applause.


Under “press”-ure!

An Irish reporter, apparently a fan of soccer, asked her if she would be going to Ireland to support the Neapolitan team’s scheduled matches next summer. Loren looked incredulously at one of the famous musicians in her midst, mumbled something in Italian and replied, “I know nothing about such things. I love cinema, art and music.” More applause.

I squeezed out of the mob at 5:00 PM, raced to the cabin, showered, and donned the tux. There was no time for a nibble in the cafe, nor a chance to work out at the Aurea Spa tonight.


Inaugural crowd gathers.

At 6:00 or so, our small American contingent of press and top-producing travel agents followed genial MSC Cruises USA’s president, Rick Sasso, off the ship and along the mylar-covered terminal walkway to the large temporary pavilion on the outer edge of Stazione Marittima. Heavy winds and rain had wreaked havoc with the pavilion, itself, apparently ripping open portions of the roof. It was a bit chilly and damp as we settled in on some seats near the back of the huge arena. Each chair was topped with a lovely program describing the events:

Acrobatic dance performance by Aeros, including members of the Romanian Artistic Gymnastic Federation

Curtains part on the stage to reveal the towering bow of the MSC FANTASIA, floodlit in an evolving spectrum of colors

(eight song) Concert by Pino Danielle, renowned Neapolitan Rock, Blues and Jazz artist


Renzo Arbore and his magical Orchestra Italiana.

(Another long but delightfully exuberant) Concert by Renzo Arbore’s Orchestra Italiana (think Italian Gypsy Kings meets Xavier Cugat), joined by Lucio Dalla

Short speeches by MSC President Pierfrancesco Vago and MSC’s CEO Gianluigi Aponte


Left to right: MSC FANTASIA Captain Giuliano Bossi, Sophia Loren, MSC CEO Gianluigi Aponte, MSC President Pierfrancesco Vago.


Captain Giuliano Bossi, Sophia Loren and Gianluigi Aponte. Photo and copyright Oliver Mueller 2008.


The ribbon is cut. Photo and copyright Oliver Mueller 2008.

Entrance of Sophia Loren (who, after accepting a bouquet from a little girl, waved and proceeded to stage right) for the ceremonial ribbon cutting to release the bottle of Veuve Clicquot into the ship’s bow flanks.


MSC christening confetti blizzard.


Eruption over the Bay of Naples.

Blizzards of confetti and blasting of MSC FANTASIA’s whistle followed with a magnificent fireworks display over the Bay of Naples.


Stazione Marittima in lights.


Facets of FANTASIA.

Although long (at nearly three hours, it was more like a night out on the town), the christening was one of the most elaborate and truly spectacular I have witnessed. It has also left me craving more of Renzo Arbore's amazing Orchestra Italiana music!

It was 9:30 when we finally made it to dinner in Il Cerchio d’Oro for a fixed menu of surf and veal (a vegetarian substitute was provided upon request).


FANTASIA L’Avangardia, facing forward from Sublime Deck (7).

After dinner, I barely made it to the L’Avangardia Theater for the show, “Odyssey”. It was a jaw-dropping feast of lasers, toned bodies, Medieval costumes and sets, and eery music. Quite stunning, even following the grand spectacle of the christening.

I had planned to sleep in the following day and then maybe see some of Naples, depending on what time the FANTASIA was to sail, which was still a mystery.

Saturday, December 20, 2008


Neapolitan FANTASIA.

Up at 10:00 after a restless night, I tried to finish the documenting, which would include the Sports Bar, Red Velvet Restaurant, Internet Center, and L’imolito Lounge. After a cappuccino in the aptly-named Il Cappuccino overlooking the atrium, I joined Christopher on a walk through the streets of Naples. We found a pizzeria and lingered over a couple pizza margheritas and a penne arrabiata, then scaled the cobblestone streets overlooking the bay before returning to the ship just prior to her 6:00 PM departure.


FANTASIA MSC Aurea Spa gym, facing starboard.

I almost fell asleep on the floor of the MSC Aurea Spa gym during my first and only workout of the week as the FANTASIA sailed out of Naples, then joined Christopher for a low key, full service dinner in the Red Velvet. The food was not so memorable (to be fair, on inaugurals it rarely is) but the service and Lachryma Christi wine were wonderful.


FANTASIA Manhattan Bar, facing aft.


FANTASIA Piazza San Giorgio, facing starboard.


FANTASIA aft from forward Aurora Deck (16).


FANTASIA Il Transatlantico Piano Bar, facing aft/starboard.

Still hungry, we ordered a plate of cheese and bread in La Cantina Toscana, stopping in the Manhattan Bar for a freshly made chocolate and Grand Marnier crepe, then headed to the show, “Fantasie”, which, like "Odyssey", was also a grand spectacle. Afterwards, there was time for some very nice gelato in Piazza San Giorgio, a walk around the upper decks, a visit to the disco and a glass of water in the Il Transatlantico piano bar.

Although the ship was not due to arrive in Genoa until noon, we were a bit horrified to return to 12119 and a notice telling us to vacate the cabin by 8:00 AM.

Saturday, December 20, 2008

After the overseas flights, non-stop events and challenges of documenting a 133,500 get ship in just two days, it was a tall order to get up at 7:00 AM and then carry our hand luggage around the ship until noon. We did our best to sleep in, but the banging of vacuum cleaners and cabinets in the cabins above, below and around us put an end to that.

As a compromise, I left my hand luggage on the sofa and decided to spend the morning on deck and in the public spaces as we neared Genova. The restaurants had all closed at 9:00 AM, so I made do with some peanuts from the mini-bar.


MSC FANTASIA nears the coast of Liguria.


FANTASIA flottante.


Don’t pose for me, Argentina!

On deck, it was a brilliant, sunny day. As we rounded the Portofino peninsula, FANTASIA blew her whistle, presumably in salute to the town of Camogli, home to many ex-sea captains. I secured a spot on forward starboard Aurora Deck (16) and was soon surrounded by a throng of German photographers edging for their share of accessible railing. Meanwhile, over my shoulder, with Liguria and the FANTASIA’s backlit pool area as a backdrop, the aspiring Argentinian model was flipping her hair and pouting her lips as her friend clicked away.


L to R: SEABOURN ODYSSEY and twin ex DFDS MOBYs DREA (TOR BRITANNIA) and OTTA (TOR SCANDINAVIA) at Genova.


FANTASIA, facing aft from midships Aurora Deck (16).


F DIAMOND, very much in the rough, at Genova.

Genoa looked magnificent with its pastel stucco facades bathed in the morning light. In the Mariotti shipyard, an interesting line up included Seabourn’s newbuilding SEABOURN ODYSSEY and the 1975-built former TOR BRITANNIA and 1976-built TOR SCANDINAVIA in Moby’s cartoon livery. The original Love Boat PACIFIC (ex PACIFIC PRINCESS) was in dry dock in between two ferries. Across the way, a cluster of Moby ferries lingered in winter layup. The remarkable 1967-built F DIAMOND, originally the TOR HOLLANDIA, lay at the end of Molo Vecchio, looking like an accident about to happen. We maneuvered past Comanav's 1974-built OUZOUD (originally the PETER PAN) and eventually berthed stern-in at the Ponte dei Mille terminal.


MSC FANTASIA at Genova.

Most of us were pretty jittery by the time the ship finally cleared and we disembarked for the coach to the marvelous, recently-restored Grand Hotel Savoia, across from the Stazione Principe train station. From there, it was off to eat before walking down to the Molo Vecchio for a photo of the MSC FANTASIA. An amazing line up of yachts and the disturbingly black, rusting F DIAMOND were encountered along the way.


Lele Luzzati!

In adjoining Portico Antico, we visited the Museo Luzzati, which is currently offering an exhibit called "La Cantata dei Pastori". A flyer has announced a display of the late, prolific Emanuele Luzzati’s shipboard artworks in the near future but my inability to speak Italian prevented me from getting any further information.


View from Genova’s Grand Hotel Savoia, including Stazione Principe and the MSC FANTASIA.

By the time we returned to the hotel at a relatively early 7:00 PM, we were both so exhausted, we missed the scheduled dinner. Meanwhile, MSC FANTASIA towered over the harbor, aglow in lights, preparing to sail at 11:00 PM for her official maiden voyage.

Sunday, December 21, 2008

Genoa and the Ligurian hamlets of Rapallo and Camogli (all within an hour’s scenic train ride) enchanted with their boundless charm and always available cappuccinos. It was nice to not have to rush immediately home, although there is never, ever quite enough time to enjoy Genoa.

Special thanks: Martin Cox, Charlie Doherty/CRUISE TRAVEL Magazine, Richard Farnsworth (camera rescuer extraordinaire!), Christopher Kyte, Oliver Mueller, Rick Sasso

BRAEMAR Blogby Peter Knego

Fred. Olsen Cruises website

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

BRAEMAR Decked! History and Tour blog by Peter Knego.

Please click on image to open a larger version. All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted.

Finalized: December 22, 2008

Friday, December 5, 2008


Cabin 3047, facing starboard.


Cabin 3047 bathroom.

After a bit of a bouncy flight, we arrived in Barbados at 2:30 PM on a balmy afternoon. Immigration was relatively orderly but for some reason it took over an hour before the first bags appeared on the carousel. We did not get to the Fred. Olsen's recently refitted and "stretched MV BRAEMAR until 4:30 and by the time I had checked in and dropped my luggage off at comfortable canary yellow and royal blue outside double cabin 3047, I had fifteen minutes to run ashore and photograph the gathering of cruise ships in port.


”Double dot” day at Bridgetown: Fred. Olsen's MV BOUDICCA and MV BRAEMAR.

Indeed, the port of Bridgetown appeared to be in the throes of a modern day British invasion with BRAEMAR and her former Royal Viking fleetmate BOUDICCA, soon-to-be-defunct Island Cruises’ ISLAND STAR (ex HORIZON) and P&O’s VENTURA (looking very incomplete with that see-through buff funnel).


MV SEA CLOUD II at Barbados.

A pair of SEA CLOUDS were floating in the midst of the towering U.K.-based hulls, the Marjorie Merriweather Post original of 1931 between VENTURA and BOUDICCA and the SEA CLOUD II at the jetty aft of VENTURA.


MV BRAEMAR and MV ISLAND STAR at Bridgetown.

Hurtling over potholes and around taxis with tripod and cameras in tow, I was actually able to get most of the ships documented as the setting sun turned the clouds to peach fuzz and cast lanky shadows on the choppy water. ISLAND STAR, lines freed, gave a three-whistle salute and backed into the basin past BRAEMAR, turned, and headed into the Caribbean.


MV BRAEMAR at Bridgetown, Barbados.

The post-stretch BRAEMAR actually looks sleeker in person than in the computerized images I had seen. Although I will miss those nicely curved and unified forward bulwarks and the ship’s original, compact CROWN DYNASTY profile, Fred. Olsen’s design team have done an impressive job of augmenting the original superstructure lines with the addition of the Observatory and suites on newly-added Deck 9.


Bon voyage from the BOUDICCA brass.

I was back on board at 5:20, just as Captain Ueland announced we would be serenaded from the quay by his fellow captain, Jan Thomason of BOUDICCA. With his back to a simmering horizon, the trumpet-playing master and his two member band of renowned played “Amazing Grace” and “Auld Lang Syne” as BRAEMAR’s passengers peered down from the starboard rails.


MV BOUDICCA in the Bridgetown twilight.

Soon, BOUDICCA and the remaining vessels in port were aglitter in lights as we eventually followed in the wake of ISLAND STAR.

Although I had yet to fully explore BRAEMAR, I was instantly taken with her homey yet sophisticated decor. She has come a long way from her pastel-hued, lacquered brass and faux blond wood Crown/Cunard days and was now sporting the ambiance of a welcoming British country club with tartan carpets, oversized arm chairs, bright white bulkheads and some very impressive art from the family-owned Fred. Olsen collection.


Fitness Center, facing aft.

After a very brief nap, I was also delighted to find the gym (located amidships on Deck 3) equipped with new weight and cardio machines to help reinvigorate my travel-weary body before joining the press group for welcome cocktails in the Observatory at 8:00.


Twiglets!

While on BALMORAL earlier this year, I had tried a mouth-parching Twiglet (think spicy, burnt pretzel) or two and found them a bit off-putting but strangely intriguing. On BRAEMAR, they suddenly “clicked”, and I had managed to crunch through an entire carafe of them before we veered off to our assigned second seating dinner at table 32 in the Grampian Restaurant on aft Deck 8.


Grampian Restaurant, facing starboard.

A pleasant, airy room, reminiscent of the Avon Restaurant on the BALMORAL, the Grampian features dark rosewood veneer, oversized round windows on either side and a panoramic view over the stern.


The underside of Olsen.

Utilizing Fred. Olsen’s white with gray figurehead logo Wedgwood bone china, oversize stemware and starched linen napkins, dinners on this company’s ships are always very elegantly presented. My courses included a nice Cream of Tomato Soup garnished with celery julienne, Belmont Chicken Salad with celery and red pepper tossed in a ginger and lemon mayonnaise and a main course Sun Dried Tomato and Parmesan Carbonara Tagliatelle garnished with parmesan and toasted pine nuts.


Crispy, flaky, creamy BRAEMAR Napoleon.

Dessert was a magnificently flaky, creamy Napoleon Cake -- one of the best I’ve had in ages.

Although I had wanted to enjoy the variety show in the Neptune Lounge, post red-eye fatigue and an early morning arrival at St. Lucia overruled the temptation, so I called it a rather early night as the BRAEMAR gently tossed about on her northward course through the lower Caribbean Sea.

Saturday, December 6, 2008

Late to bed, eary to rise! Unable to continue sleeping past 6:30 AM, I decided to start documenting BRAEMAR as she approached the lush coast of St. Lucia. A number of images of her decks and public areas will follow, although a full Decked! tour is also planned.


Cast ties at Castries, St. Lucia.

By the time I got to the Grampian for breakfast shortly after the ship had berthed at Castries, I had overheard some of the wait staff saying something about “code red”. Soon, the captain was on the PA system explaining that seventeen cases of suspected Norovirus had been reported on board and that as a safety measure, the ship’s staff would be undertaking a number of preventive and protective measures. Passengers with the bug had been quarantined, there would be no self-serve buffets, everyone was required to use hand sanitizing foam before entering the restaurants, Jacuzzis would be shut down and the self service laundry suspended.


Grampian buffet corner, facing aft.

Everyone seemed to take the situation in stride while I managed to point to the various offerings in the buffet corner (gravlax in dill, muesli, orange juice and fresh melon) and order other items from the menu (two eggs over easy with veggie sausage and coffee) with resounding success.


Rainforest Sky Rides Park Welcome sign.

At 9:45 AM, we met in the Neptune Lounge to muster for the Aerial Tram Tour through St. Lucia’s national rainforest. By 10:30, after a winding drive through the back streets and hills overlooking Castries, we had arrived at the tram station at the foot of the Chassin, Babboneau mountains.


Rainforest Sky Ride terminus.

We were arranged by weight and instructed where to sit in the green metal-framed gondola with wooden seats.


Up, up and away...

Soon, we were suspended in slow motion for a seventy five minute ride through the five levels of the forest, from ground to well above the tree tops.


Aerial tram support, St. Lucia.


Gondola hierarchy: downhill view to uphill tram.

Acrophobia was no match for floral fascination as our young guide, Faron, described just about every visible plant species, its growth process, scientific name and medicinal use. The tram hovers no more than 80 feet above ground on its way up and 120 feet on its way down.


Canopic.

Nary a bird escaped Faron’s keenly observant eye, although it was at times difficult to locate them before they flew off to an out of sight perch. Born in Martinique, which was clearly visible across the deep blue Caribbean waters, Faron came to St. Lucia with a fascination for the forest and taught himself all about its offerings. His knowledge was impressive, if not almaniacal.


Heliconia haven.


Julia (aka Flambeau Butterfly) alights!

I learned Heliconias are plants, not just the gracefully oblong butterflies like the Julia that fly above them.


Faron of the forest.

After the tour, guests were given time to enjoy a glass of rum or mango punch on a shaded patio or follow Faron on a short trail in search of termites, fresh water crabs, toxic plants, medicinal and culinary herbs.


Rainforest hornworm.

We found a fantastically brilliant sphinx moth caterpillar (also known as a hornworm) as it devoured an otherwise toxic plant, all within camera’s reach.


Palms Cafe, facing port.

By 2:00 PM, we were back on board BRAEMAR in time for a very quick stop at the Palms Cafe on aft Lido (6) Deck. The poor man doling out salad fixings was not used to my grazing capacity and was exhausted by the time he had piled on sufficient greenery.


MV BRAEMAR at St. Lucia.

We just made the 2:30 ferry across the small harbor to central Castries in search of wifi internet access. In addition to the hopes of a high speed laptop signal, there promised be some nice vantages of the BRAEMAR from the boat.


Castries marketplace, St. Lucia.

Upon arrival, we discovered the central terminal had shut down, save for a few locals lingering in an upstairs bar. We crossed the street and wandered around the marketplace, then walked back along the waterfront to the ship. On the way, we stopped at a small bar and joined some Brits from the BRAEMAR for a couple rounds of “two for $3.00” Piton beer. It was cold and not bad at all for the price -- just the right touch to “wooze” me into an afternoon nap to work off a little more jet lag.

Western Dinner in the Grampian included Guacamole Mexicano (spicy avocado puree served with tomato salsa, sour cream and corn chips), Cold Cream of Papaya Soup (flavored with natural yogurt), a Caesar Salad and Southern Fried Chicken (breaded in corn flakes, served with baked potato, corn fritters, broccoli and gravy). Dessert was pecan pie served with vanilla ice cream.


Coral Club, facing port.

Located on aft Lounge Deck, the Coral Club is BRAEMAR’s cabaret style venue, versus the larger Neptune Lounge, which serves as the ship’s proper showroom.


Hoe-down in the Coral Club!

The eight member Braemar Show Company would be performing “Hoe Down, Show Down” in the Coral Club (or, for tonight only, the Corral Club), which lived up to its potential as one of the most entertaining events of the week. There is nothing quite like watching a British troupe perform over-the-top Country Western tunes in garb that ranged from Parton to Polyanna.


”Yee-HAW!”

Amped up cowboys and cowgirls gyrated from all parts of the room, culminating in an on-stage dance-a-thon with members of the audience scooped up into the action.

Alas, the show wrapped up at a still early 11:15, so there was time to head up to the Western Barbeque Night up on Marquee Deck (8) for a quick peek at the festivities before heading back down for a short night’s sleep.

Sunday, December 7, 2008


Cabin tea tray.

After my wake up call at 6:45, I put the convenient tea tray to work with a freshly-brewed Darjeeling, readied my duffle with towel, bug spray and suntan lotion, then headed up to the Palms for a very hurried breakfast on the outdoor terrace as BRAEMAR rounded the rocky roads of St. John’s harbor, Antigua. Off in the quayside distance, a Silversea ship was berthing.


MV BRAEMAR at Antigua.

BRAEMAR eventually spun about in the turning basin and backed into the slot across from SILVER SHADOW. Almost as soon as the gangway was fixed, we were off the ship by 8:00 and marching toward a van that would take us to the north side of the island for our morning adventure tour.


Seatons and northern Antigua shoreline.

We arrived at the little enclave of Seatons, where we hopped out of the van, were given a thorough and informative presentation on what lay ahead, were handed masks and snorkels and then split into two groups to board high speed jet boats. Did I mention that the jet boats were high speed?


Ray of dark.

Ten minutes later, we were tying up to a small jetty atop a coral reef. Underneath us, black saucer shapes were circling in the shallow turquoise waters. We had arrived at Stingray City.


A wink and a wave.

What took me totally by surprise was just how friendly, curious, and downright affectionate these creatures are. As the company flyer describes, they are like puppy dogs, albeit with a deadly stinger in their tail. They love being fed baby squid (stingray calimari), which one holds out until the hovering ray “hoovers” it into its mouth.


Ankle caresser.

The rays literally come up and brush themselves against one’s ankle and can even be lifted gently up and, yes, caressed! Their “knowing eyes” are clearly visible ontop of their flat, dark snouts. After forty five minutes or so, we shuffled back to the dock (careful, of course, to not step on the rays, which would not be good for either party) and into the jet boats for a ride back to Seatons and yet another round of rum or virgin punch.


Iguanadon.

Caged parrots, monkeys and papaya-eating iguanas are featured at the landing. Unfortunately, so are mosquitoes, so it’s a good idea to use some repellant if a prolonged visit with the wildlife is fancied.


MV BRAEMAR (left) and MV SILVER SHADOW at St. John’s, Antigua.

Once back at the quayside, I took a few moments to walk over to the other jetty for a nice photo of BRAEMAR. Shaking her head, a very disgruntled security guard soon kicked me off, although the jetty was easily accessed, safe to navigate and even equipped with park-style benches. There is no rhyme or reason to modern day port security, even in Antigua.


Thistle Restaurant, facing forward.

Shortly after noon, we converged on the handsome Thistle Restaurant on aft Main Deck (4) for the Neptune Sea Food Buffet.


Rice pudding, BRAEMAR style.

As my comrades had lobster and shrimp piled on their plates like it was going out of style, I settled for my usual salad offerings, an extra dollup or two of Greek salad and ordered some nice cream of chicken soup and a rice pudding off the menu for dessert.


MV SILVER SHADOW at St. John’s, Antigua.

By 1:00 PM, most of BRAEMAR’s passengers were all gathered on deck as she pulled away from the quay, leaving SILVER SHADOW and St. John’s in her wake. The next two and a half days would be what I often cherish most: time at sea.

The captain announced that there were now twenty two cases of the “bug”, which now seemed more a reflection of food poisoning obtained during one of the earlier port calls (Isla Margarita, perhaps?) than NLV, which, in most circumstances, would have spread much wider before it was detected. Nonetheless, the precautions would be continued until further notice.


Carpet bowl in the Atrium.

A following Force 2 wind, partially cloudy skies and smooth seas made deck lounging almost irresistible, but I chose a “far niente” agenda of napping in the cabin to finally pay back my debt to the “sleep gods”. Meanwhile, a full array of events from carpet bowls, golf putting, deck quoits, quizzes, Bingo!, a classical recital and tummy exercise classes to a snuggle up with a book in the Library were BRAEMAR’s other afternoon options.

I awoke just after sunset to witness a fading purple glow outside my twin portholes. After staggering about a bit, I hit the gym with a vengeance and, with renewed vigor, joined the press group in the Observatory at 8:15. Sadly, due to the “code red”, there were no carafes of Twiglets to accompany our various potions.


Raspberry creme brulée.

I so wanted the Grilled Swordfish with Horseradish Cream main course but guilted myself into the tasty, un-endangered Roast Chicken (flavored with thyme, served with roast potatoes, roast parsnips, carrots, and gravy), instead. The Raspberry Creme Brulée received accolades from table 32 as best dessert.


Skylark Lounge, facing port.

The Braemar Show Company performed “Divas Show” in the Coral Club but never quite reached the heights of the prior night’s hoe down. From there, it was up to the Skylark Club on aft Bridge Deck (7) for Karaoke, which was definitely the ship’s most “happening” spot. Some very brave, mostly tone deaf fellow passengers had a go at the mike while the less courageous (and possibly more tone deaf) lot of us egged them on from the bandstands. This debauchery went on far too long, but with two sea days ahead, it was undisputed, non-stop party time. No regrets...at least not until the morning, then.

Monday, December 8, 2008


Continental breakfast en suite.

Continental breakfast arrived at 10:00 -- that nice British muesli, a banana and some hot tea. But everything hurt and my head was spinning. Somehow, I had gone over my Cotes du Rhone limit the prior night and would be paying for it over the duration of this otherwise blissful sea day.

I used the rest of the tranquil morning to sort and ready images for this blog. On the captain’s update, the “bug” cases had declined from twenty two to seventeen. There would be continued diligence but light was at the end of the tunnel.

And, now, for some views of the handsome little BRAEMAR (the rest will appear one day soon on a separate “Decked!” installation):


Deck Nine, facing aft.


Aft from Deck 9.

Deck Nine was installed in the recent stretch and refit, overlooks the bow and pool area, features golf driving enclosures and, reputedly, an area for topless sunbathing.


Marquee Deck (8) lido, facing aft.


Marquee Deck (8) pool area, facing aft.


Marquee Deck (8) pool area, facing forward.

Prior to the stretch, BRAEMAR was somewhat challenged for lido deck space with her one pool and limited sunning area. Now she has two pools, the newly-added forward one and the original aft one, with plenty of space for all of her sun-loving passengers.


Aft port Marquee Deck (8), facing forward.

These porthole style windows are a signature Fred. Olsen touch and can be found on the recently rebuilt BALMORAL, as well. They look into (or out from) the Grampian Restaurant on Aft Marquee Deck.


BRAEMAR terracing.

BRAEMAR’s after decks have more or less remained unchanged, which is a good thing. The terracing is quite lovely and provides a number of private nooks and crannies where one can escape the crowds and still enjoy some time in the elements (and a nice view over the wake).


Neptune Lounge, facing forward.

The Neptune Lounge begins the sweep of rooms on Lounge Deck (5) and is unusual for a showroom in its fore to aft layout. It is the BRAEMAR’s proper showroom and home to production numbers, enrichment lectures, captain’s cocktail parties, and is the main mustering place for shore excursions.


Morning Light Pub, facing aft.

Ironically, the handsome Morning Light Pub, located aft of the forward vestibule on Lounge Deck, doesn’t even come to life until 11:00 AM. In the wee hours, it is home to sing-alongs and live music with a quintessentially British vibe.


Braemar Lounge, facing forward.

The Braemar Lounge, both gallery in layout and for its brightly colored and oversized paintings, stretches aft from the Morning Light Pub on the port side of the ship.


MV BRAEMAR (ii) model.

A lovely model of the sculpted BRAEMAR (ii) of 1953, a ship well ahead of her time, graces the forward portion of the Braemar Lounge.


Tartanic.

Tartan soft fittings are no stranger to Fred. Olsen ships and BRAEMAR has her share of them.


Library, facing forward.

Adjacent to the Braemar Lounge on the starboard side are the expansive Library (with its circular alcove, another Fred. Olsen signature feature) and plenty of quiet seating. The Card Room and the Internet Center follow.


Internet Center, facing starboard.

Ah, the hours spent here!


Atrium, facing up from Main Deck (4).


Per Lundgren signature.

The ship boasts an impressive four deck high Atrium, stretching up from Main Deck to Bridge Deck on the starboard side. A towering fresco lines the forward bulkhead but one has to hunt under the adjacent stair tower to find the artist’s signature.


Port Lounge Deck (5) Promenade, facing forward.

I spent an hour or so in the late afternoon enjoying the sea air from the ship’s marvelous, open fo’c’sle and full wrap-around promenade on Lounge Deck. On both the sunny port side and shaded starboard side, passengers were curled up with books or propped with feet up on a rail or two, engaged in conversation. So very civilized.


Facing aft from fo'c'sle, MV CUNARD DYNASTY.


BRAEMAR half face.

Above, a comparison of the BRAEMAR’s "face", prior to and after the refit.

The rest of the day? Indian buffet in the Thistle (absolutely delicious chicken curry and perfect, crispy papadams) chased down with gallons of water. Photo taking and sizing, wandering the ship, attending the guest speaker’s (Peter Holden) lecture entitled “Private Lives” (mainly about UK birds and trees) in the Neptune Lounge and a workout in the gym (if it didn’t kill me, I had hoped it would make me stronger or at least less hung over).

Alas, it was formal night, so the tux was unleashed from its hangar and donned before I climbed up to the Grampian for dinner.


Baked Alaska.

In time-honored formal night sea-going tradition, flambéed Baked Alaska was paraded around the Grampian after dinner.


Crew show in the Neptune Lounge.

We headed to the crew show in the Neptune Lounge, not expecting to be as dazzled as we were by the talent. In addition to some really stellar singing, there were some fascinating Philippine, Thai and Viet-Namese traditional dances performed by members of the reception, dining, housekeeping, deck and engine crew.


Grand Gala Buffet.


Grand Gala Desserts.

The spectacle continued in the Thistle, with the Grand Gala Buffet. After that, it was up to the Skylark for a relatively brief visit sans Cotes du Rhone. As the music boomed away, I thought I felt the ship’s engines shudder, stop, then start up again.

Tuesday, December 9, 2008: At Sea


BRAEMAR’s wake.

I was not imagining the bit with the engines last night, after all. In his morning announcement, Capain Ueland informed us that one of the BRAEMAR’s four engines had shut down, and, although all attempts would be made to repair it en route, our next day’s 10:00 AM arrival in Key West would be delayed. Force 6 seas and an uncooperative Gulf Stream were also working against our progress. The good news was that the “bug” cases had dwindled down to a mere seven, all of whom would be released from quarantine that evening. All buffet, laundry, etc. services would return to normal. Alas, Twiglets lay ahead!


Observatory, facing port.

Thanks to our media host, the thoughtful and thorough Steve Kravitz, group interviews were set up with the Executive Chef, Hotel Manager and Captain in the lovely Observatory Lounge on forward Marquee Deck (8).


Executive Chef Siggi Weich.

Executive Chef Siggi Weich, a native of Dusseldorf, has been a chef for 15 years and after service on QE2 and with Crystal Cruise Lines, joined Fred. Olsen’s BLACK PRINCE in 1996, going to the BLACK WATCH and then the BRAEMAR in 2002. On the BRAEMAR stretch, he commented, “It was all very well conceived with the addition of a new galley on Deck 8 to accommodate the Grampian, which also connects via food elevator with the main galley on Deck 3, the provisions on Deck 2 and the pastry galley on Deck 1. We also have more storage and freezer space now.” He added, “On BRAEMAR, there are 21 menus for me to choose from, meaning there is no repetition on any of the 14 night cruises. Americans tend to favor a lot of rare-cooked beef on the menu and Brits. are keen on an assortment of lobster, beef and fish (sole is possibly the most popular) as well as lamb.”


Captain Arild Ueland.

Farsund, Norway-based Captain Ueland began his sea-going career at age 16 on board a bulk carrier in the North Sea, moving to various car carriers, and tankers. In 1985, he signed on as an officer on board a Skaugen Line ro/ro between Japan and Vancouver, then joined his first passenger ship, RCCL’s SONG OF AMERICA, going onward to the SOVEREIGN trio and all the way up to the VOYAGER. Ironically, as he spoke, a southbound RADIANCE class ship plunged across the port horizon. He came to Fred. Olsen in 2005, first with BOUDICCA, then BRAEMAR. For him, mastering a ship the size and capacity of BRAEMAR is far more enjoyable than managing 5,000 passengers and crew on a set weekly itinerary as he did with RCCL. The genial captain also gave props to his fellow captain, Jan Thomason of BOUDICCA, saying, “He is one of the best trumpet players I know.”


Below the bridge belt buckle.


BRAEMAR figurehead and radio mast.


Fantail figurehead.

I had the rest of the day to wander about and capture various BRAEMAR details, such as the beautiful figureheads from past Fred. Olsen ships. For a brief while, the east coast of Cuba was visible as we sailed against the Gulf Stream for Key West. In the Grampian, I was able to do my own salad-building, then headed off with a few media friends to the humbling quiz and tea in the Coral Club. Another work out, then Chinese buffet dinner in the Palms and the show, “Back to the Movies”, in the Neptune before winding it all up in the Skylark. BRAEMAR was skittling a bit by the time I finally called it a night.

Wednesday, December 10, 2008: Key West, Florida

An unforgiving Gulf Stream and BRAEMAR’s uncooperating fourth engine’s “governor” (it would be replaced in Miami) postponed our arrival in Key West to 4:00 PM. Just prior to our arrival, CARNIVAL FASCINATION vacated her berth and sailed past.

High winds made berthing a long, slow challenge, so by the time we were queued up in the Coral Club to pass through U.S. immigration, there was only an hour or so left before sunset.


Key West trolleys.


Southernmost point, Key West.

A trolley was waiting to take us on a very quick but enjoyable tour of Key West, from Truman’s and Hemingway’s homes, up historic Duval Street and past the Southernmost Point and other spots of interest.


Casa Marina Hotel, Key West.


Key West-set.

In no time, we were at the Casa Marina Resort, a wonderful property built in 1920, renovated in 2007 and now considered the premier luxury hotel in Key West. Sunset accompanied a piña colada and delicious hors d’oeuvres. We enjoyed a tour of the spectacular rooms, then were shuffled back onto the trolley for a ride back to the quayside, stopping for dinner at a local Cuban restaurant.


MV BRAEMAR at Key West, Florida.

Our teasing whirlwind visit to Key West was just enough to whet the appetite. BRAEMAR’s sailing was delayed until 9:00 PM, so many of the local merchants kept their doors open to accommodate.


Lido Bar and aft Lido Deck (6), facing forward/starboard.

We gathered in the shelter of aft Lido Deck (6) for a final toast as BRAEMAR thrust away from the pier. Soon, she was hitting some heavy swells head-on as she plied her way to Miami.


Force 7.

I learned the following morning that we were in a Force 7, nothing extraordinary, but enough to give us a bumpy ride for the night.

Thursday, December 11, 2008

At 10:00 AM, we joined CARNIVAL DESTINY and VOYAGER OF THE SEAS at Miami. After documenting various emptied cabins (I’ll save those for Decked!) and clearing customs, it was time to bid farewell to the BRAEMAR and her hard-working crew before hailing a cab for Miami International and our flights home.

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Mike Bird, Wendy Hooper-Greenhill, Wendy Jeffries, Steven Kravitz, Stuart Newman, Carol Shaughnessy and Edna (from Housekeeping)

End of blog