Celebrating SOLSTICE(CELEBRITY SOLSTICE Christening and Inaugural Cruise)by Peter Knego

Comprehensive top to bottom CELEBRITY SOLSTICE Decked! Tour (Not Just Another Mega Ship) by Peter Knego

Celebrity Cruises CELEBRITY SOLSTICE website

Celebrity Cruises website

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

New! Peter Knego's 2009 Passenger Ships Calendar!

Please click on image to open a larger version. All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted.

Pro-blogue:

I have been a fan of the innovative, aesthetically daring and often provocative ships in the Celebrity Cruises fleet since the debut of the CENTURY (now CELEBRITY CENTURY) in 1995. Celebrity’s vessels are instilled with an ocean liner ambiance and a modern, almost European flair that sets them apart from the ordinary.

In anticipation of attending the inaugural of Celebrity’s first newbuild in six years, the Meyer Werft-built CELEBRITY SOLSTICE, I have tried to avoid advance reviews and hyperbolic press releases in the hopes of having an untainted first impression. That said, it was hard not to fixate a bit as the ship loomed at her Ft. Lauderdale berth last week prior to her November 14 sailing.

Seen from the outside, the “angel” is in SOLSTICE’s architectural details, such as the manner in which the multifaceted superstructure slopes back, the exquisite sculpting of her twin funnels and mast, the sleekness of the glass-encased Solarium and Atrium buttresses, the arrangement of windscreens over the pool, the wing-like canvasses sheltering the Lawn Club and the yacht-like dynamics of her stern sponson. She is really quite a fascinating ship to study, even if her overall proportions are not necessarily a departure from the prevailing Post Panamax norm of squared off hull and towering superstructure.

It did not take me long at all to surmise that, internally, the CELEBRITY SOLSTICE is the most exciting, original and dynamic major passenger ship since the “as built” QE2. Her MidCentury Modern stylings are often reminiscent of the first ORIANA, CANBERRA, RAFFAELLO, MICHELANGELO, SHALOM and even the nuclear-powered SAVANNAH, although her look is entirely her own. Even those who do not care for her decor would most likely concede she is certainly not boring or “just another new cruise ship”.

An upcoming Decked! will feature a full top to bottom tour and many details not included here.

Friday, November 14, 2008


Inaugural welcome desk.

Thanks to Michael Bennett, who delivered me from the Miami Dodge Island cruise terminal to Ft. Lauderdale, I would have the greater part of the day to explore and document the CELEBRITY SOLSTICE prior to her christening ceremony that afternoon. Once past security, I joined a growing group of travel agents and media people who were queueing up to board the ship at 11:00 AM. Interestingly, behind the closed doors to the main hall, a ground-breaking ceremony was being held to commemorate Ft. Lauderdale’s new cruise terminal.


Cabin 6246 facing starboard.

My traveling companion, Hamburg-based journalist Oliver Mueller of Seven Seas Society arrived just after the doors swung open.

Press kits in hand, luggage in tow, it was up an escalator past strands of festive blue and white balloons and across a long, steep gangway to the ship. We headed immediately to Cabin 6246, a deluxe verandah stateroom on starboard Continental Deck. There was not much time to ogle our abode as an entire 122,000 gt ship awaited documenting, but I was immediately impressed with the sophisticated medium wood tones, copper colored carpeting and the maroon, gold and beige soft fittings. No sickly coral, peach or turquoise pastels here!

Our steward popped in to say hello and let us know the room was not quite ready. He would separate the queen bed into two twins and finish up while we roamed the ship.


Cabin 6246 w/c.

The bathroom was very spacious and had plenty of shelves, nicely detailed tile work, and a large shower with sliding glass doors that featured a small bar for ladies to rest their foot upon for leg shaving. Well done!


Cabin 6246 balcony, facing starboard.

Even the tall, metal-framed verandah furniture was a step above the ordinary.


Totally random carpet shot.

Celebrity ships are often compared to boutique hotels. Passageways feature interesting original artworks, subdued lighting and rich colors as well as some of the best carpet choices afloat.


Aft stairtower, facing port/aft.

Oliver and I parted ways in the main stairtower, where each landing sports an impressive series of original artworks, to begin our systematic documenting process.


Grand Foyer ceiling.

I went immediately to the lowest of the ship’s thirteen passenger levels, the Plaza Deck. I would start at the bottom and work my way up as the various venues filled with guests attending the day’s events.


Grand Foyer stairs facing aft from Plaza Deck.


Grand Foyer, facing forward from Promenade Deck level.

Hurriedly, I covered the lowest level of the Grand Foyer, the Passport Bar and Guest Relations areas. The soaring atrium is a neck-craner and really quite breathtaking, as one would expect on a Celebrity (or any RCI, for that matter) ship. Its three bottom levels are a study in marble and brushed steel with a restrained palette of brilliant blue and gold. I couldn't resist a peek at the Grand Epernay dining room but would have to come back to it later as guests were being seated for lunch.


Shops On The Boulevard, facing forward.

On Promenade Deck, I found the Martini Bar in the midst of much hubbub as a crew set up lights for a photo shoot. I continued forward via the Shops On The Boulevard with their backlit pilasters, recalling somewhat the curtained alabaster stairtowers in the MILLENNIUM class lobbies. Emitting natural light, the slatted blinds looking out to the port Entertainment promenade on the upper level were an especially nice touch.


Entertainment Court, facing forward.

The Entertainment Court is the smaller of the SOLSTICE’s two atria and is located just forward of the shops. String quartets, acapella singers and other civilized amusement can be enjoyed here. On the port side, the space age Quasar disco was being readied for a private party (so South Beach!) and on the starboard side, musicians gathered in the Celebrity Central auditorium to prepare for the inaugural rehearsal in the Solstice Theater, which was closed off. I worked my way aft via the Casino on the starboard side to the Grand Lobby.


DGA Studios designer, Francesca Puschi, supervises as a painting is hung in Cellar Masters.

Inspired by California’s Napa Valley vineyards, Cellar Masters overlooks the starboard side of the Grand Lobby. It is at once rustic and chic, with Spanish arches, charcoal wood tones, posh maroon high back chairs, emerald highlights and amber glass ceiling fixtures.


Ensemble Lounge entry hall detail.

On Entertainment Deck, the Bistro on Five and Cafe il Bacio were already packed with visitors, so I continued forward of the Grand Lobby to the Galleria Tastings and Boutique area with its impressive art displays before heading aft to the Ensemble Lounge. The entryway, a "multi media installation", is rather extraordinary, with hand painted flora on its black enameled walls and crawling ants painted into the decking, all by Columbian American artist, Nancy Friedeman.


Michael’s Club facing aft from port.

The Ensemble Lounge contains a large bar in its epicenter and is both lounge and starboard side passage. It adjoins Michael’s Club and the extra tariff Murano Restaurant on the port side.


Silk Harvest detail.

Beyond the aft vestibule, there is a trio of specialty restaurants, beginning with the Asian fusion Silk Harvest on the starboard side. Natural light from the full length windows, dark wood tones, hot salmon pink upholstered chairs and a honeycomb of suspended amber lanterns share the space with walls of cherry blossom photo etched glass panels.


Blu, facing aft.

On the port side, Blu could have taken its decorative cues from Nino Zoncada and J.A. van Tienhoven, with chandeliers reminiscent of those in the MICHELANGELO’s double deck first class lounge and stark white rose-embossed bulkheads that would have been right at home in RAFFAELLO’s first class restaurant. It is divided by a screen with brass framed “portholes” that is not entirely unlike those in the 1959 ROTTERDAM’s Ambassador Lounge. And yet the starkness and restraint is also reminiscent of the verandah bar on NS SAVANNAH. It is one of my two favorite spaces on CELEBRITY SOLSTICE and possibly one of the nicest dining rooms afloat. The catch: one must be booked in an Aquaclass stateroom in order to dine here. Consider it a health-conscious Queen’s Grill.


Tuscan Grille, facing port.

The Tuscan Grill occupies the very aft portion of this deck with its panorama of full length windows stretching across the stern. Another sophisticated eatery featuring some wonderful metal and tinted glass chandeliers (also a bit MICHELANGELO) and bold, warm colors.


Library, facing forward.

The upper decks beckoned with the double deck Team Earth, the Card Room and the double deck Library in their vertiginous perches along the forward portion of the soaring atrium.


A-tree-um, facing down from the Library.

In lieu of a sculpture, the Atrium features a live ficus tree in a vivid red planter.


Midships Resort Deck, facing forward through Wet Zone fountain.

On Resort Deck, a water fountain similar to that of the very chic Los Angeles Music Center springs directly from the deck. Instead of drenching beehived actresses on their way to the Oscars, it reputedly erupts in synch with music performed on the platform just aft. Two outdoor pools, sheltered and open sunning decks are featured here.


Forward funnel from starboard Lawn Club Deck.

From afar, the SOLSTICE’s funnels seem a bit too small for the ship’s vast proportions but from the vantage of the Lawn Club level, they are truly sublime. Grated in a fashion similar to that of the first Celebrity ship, MERIDIAN (ex GALILEO GALILEI), they are quite substantial up close. The fins have a lovely curl that combines elements of AUSONIA and ACHILLE LAURO and yet the spacing of the funnels hearkens back to the magical old BRITANIS of 1931.


Lawn Club, facing aft.

The idea of a real grass lawn at sea hadn’t much swayed me until I experienced it in person. It is actually quite lovely, although I suspect there will be some maintenance issues to be sorted out. The canvas awnings are also marvelous, stretching overhead like a giant pteradactyl’s wings.


Funnels from starboard bowling green.

From aft, the two gorgeous funnels seen together were giving me REGENT SEA (ex GRIPSHOLM) flashbacks.


Midships Resort Deck facing aft from Lido Deck.

The heat and hunger were taking their toll, but much more still lay ahead. I hurried up to Solstice Deck and wandered around its varied and inviting sun terraces and their imposing view over Resort Deck, then back down to forward Lawn Club level and the child and teen centers and down one more to the soothingly stark Sky Lounge on forward Lido Deck.


Solarium, facing aft.

The Solarium is a spectacular space with its soaring glass panels, another wonderful fountain, huge pool and sheltered lido area. There is even a handy sundry shop on the port side for those needing sunglasses, tanning lotion and swimming gear.


Jennifer Dabu models acupuncture technique.

While racing through the dazzling AquaSpa, I encountered licensed acupuncturist, Jennifer Dabu, whose right ear was impaled by no less than four needles, which she assured me were for relaxation and general well-being. CELEBRITY SOLSTICE features four treatment rooms in its Acupuncture At Sea.


Oceanview buffet.


Well-designed lunch in the Oceanview Cafe.

With only a few moments to grab a bite to eat, I was off to the OceanView Cafe for refueling. I ordered some spaghetti with eggplant, sundried tomatoes and extra garlic laced pomodoro sauce at the pasta station, made a quick spinach salad at the salad bar and grabbed a chicken breast with some sauteed eggplant, all of which systematically disappeared in just a few short moments. I love the designer dishes but why are there no serving trays?


Solstice Theater christening screen.

We joined the media group on the port Entertainment Deck level of the Solstice Theater for the christening ceremony. The theme song, U2’s “Beautiful Day”, was performed by the Vitamin String Quartet, violinist Lucia Micarelli and vocalist Antonio Sol.



The St. Andrews Pipe Band of Miami led a procession from the Lawn Club down to the Solstice Theater, passing down the starboard side of the auditorium and up onto the proscenium before exiting stage left. The Godmother Procession followed, with RCI chairman Richard Fain, Captain Panagiotis Skylogiannis and Godmother Sharon L. Smith proceeding to the stage to the French Horns Fanfare.


The Greek National Anthem is performed.


American anthem in the Solstice Theater.

Rabbi Terry A. Bookman and Seaman’s Pastor Sverre Tofte performed the blessings before the Greek Anthem and American Anthem were sung by Beklys Riveron-Raimundez and Antonio Sol, respectively.


Godmother Sharon Smith and RCCL CEO, Richard Fain.

Richard Fain addressed the crowd and introduced Godmother Sharon L. Smith, a world-renowned biological oceanographer whose work has been invaluable in determining the future of the ocean’s food supplies and the effects of nuclear energy as well as global warming on the environment. The first scientist to ever christen a cruise ship, Dr. Smith gave an eloquent speech and was momentarily overcome with emotion when discussing her two bouts with cancer.


Red ribbon readied.

Mr. Fain led Dr. Smith to the opposite side of the stage for the ribbon cutting, which would send a bottle of champagne suspended high over the Lawn Club crashing into the forward funnel.


Christening on the Solstice Theater screen.

The bottle break was telecast in the auditorium, concluding the christening ceremony.


Night view from forward Solstice Deck.

We joined friends on the upper decks for a celebratory glass of wine as the SOLSTICE prepared to sail. The myriad glasswork, dark by day, glowed with light from within the ship.


Resort Deck fountain nocturne from port Lido Deck.

The Wet Zone fountain area on Resort Deck was particularly lovely, bathed in a purple fiber optic glow.


Nightboat salutations.

As the SOLSTICE backed from her berth a few minutes past 7:00 PM, two fire boats accompanied her with their plumes.


CELEBRITY SOLSTICE departs Ft. Lauderdale on her official naming preview cruise. Photo by and copyright W.A. Hoey 2008.

We positioned ourselves on port side of the ship under the aft funnel, waving to our friends Bill and Katy Hoey in their eighth floor condominium as the SOLSTICE headed through the channel and into the open sea. The ship’s whistle had a nice deep tone but was barely audible from the upper decks.


Christening night gala dinner in the Grand Epernay.

We had dinner on the port side balcony level of the magnificent Grand Epernay dining room, which had basically been in use throughout the day with various functions. The Naming Celebration menu was a fixed affair with the following courses, accompanied by Celebrity Cellarmasters Proprietary Blend chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon:

Chilled Snow Crab, Salmon Gravlax and Avocado Lime Timbale with Dill-Caviar Vnaigrette

Wild Mushroom and Foie Gras Ragout with Puff Pastry Triangles, Fried Sage and Balsamic Syrup

Maine Lobster Bisque, Pistachio Foam

Melange of Mache, Frisee and Radicchio and Warm Crusted Goat Cheese with Raspberry Vinaigrette

Pink Champagne Granite

and a main course choice of:

Grilled Mediterranean Sea Bass, Roasted Artichokes, Sundried Tomatoes, Celery Root Fondant and Black Truffle Vinaigrette

or

Roasted Colorado Rack of Lamb on Morel Risotto and Zinfandel Braised Belgian Endive


Christening night gala dessert.

The Solstice Decadent Collection of Miniature Desserts did its best to keep me awake for the next few hours.
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Many of us rounded out the evening in the Solstice Theater to watch “Solstice, The Show”, a Cirque de Soleil-style extravaganza with performers dangling from high wires and along balconies as others contorted on stage with various hoops and acrobatics.

The following day’s agenda was intense and began early, so it had to be a relatively early night.

Saturday, November 15, 2008


Cappuccino in Cafe il Bacio.

By 8:00 AM, the crowds had begun to descend upon Cafe il Bacio. A cappuccino helped lift the morning fog and ready me for what promised to be an exciting press conference in the Sky Lounge at 9:00 AM.


Sky Lounge facing port from forward.

As CELEBRITY SOLSTICE meandered in the seas off South Florida, brilliant sunlight filtered in through the angled glass panels of the Sky Lounge. A wave-like ceiling fixture emanated from the room’s vortex and the palette of deep blue, stark white, and silver was both refreshing and restrained. Had I a week to enjoy aboard this spectacular new ship, this would undoubtedly be one of my favorite spots to cozy up in and savor.


Designer’s forum in Sky Club.

On this particular morning, a line up of nine white leather Arne Jacobsen egg chairs (hello, SS SHALOM!) was gathered in the room’s epicenter. In the seats were the principal designers of the CELEBRITY SOLSTICE.

Harri Kulovaara, Celebrity’s Executive VP of Newbuilding/Design (Maritime) for RCCL moderated the panel, beginning by asking each designer to introduce themselves and discuss their contributions to the SOLSTICE.

Francesca Puschi/DGA Studios: Murano (“inspired by a fine restaurant one would find in a piazza in Venice, featuring crystals and deep colors”), Michael’s Club (“an urban retreat”), Ensemble Lounge (“bold patterns, vibrant, a jazz lounge experience”, CellarMasters (“it’s all about wine as a social experience, sensory, full of color"), Passport/Lobby Bar (“the first space one sees on board, a confluence of arrivals and departures, reflective and vibrant”)

Greg Walton/RTKL Associates: SOLSTICE staterooms (with the input of the five “leading ladies”, a team consisting of a frequent cruiser, a land-based hospitality executive, a person who has never cruised before, a travel agent and a travel writer -- “ergonomically comfortable for women and a 32 inch flat screen television for the men”), Sky Lounge (“dual function observation lounge and nightclub”), Quasar (“inspired by James Bond, the front facade is reminiscent of an Aston Martin”), Cafe Il Bacio (“a Viennese Cafe”), Silk Harvest (“not meant to be authentic but rather a contemporary interpretation of Asia”)

Adam Tihany/Tihany Design (self-described “enfant terrible”, his directive was to “forget everything done earlier and start from scratch” and biggest challenge was “vibration”): Grand Epernay (“a dining event, not a room, designed to create a ‘wow’ effect, a contemporary Busby Berkeley movie set”), Oceanview Cafe (“live food stations”), Tuscan Grill (“the kind of restaurant that will never fail, one that serves pasta and steak”)

Kelly Gonzales/RCCL VP of Design (coordinated 30 international designers and 100 member newbuilding team -- overall goal of “cohesiveness” with a design motif that incorporates “earth, air, light and water”): Blu, Martini Bar, SOLSTICE Suites, Child and Teen Centers, Library, Card Room, Computer Lab

Scott Butler/Wilson Butler Architects (“Four years ago, I began work on the SOLSTICE with the goal of making the ship a breakthrough by seaming various spaces together in a natural fashion, like a well-laid out city with dining in the aft portion of the ship, casino and shopping areas adjacent to each other, etc. My goal was to work with land-based firms and coordinate the work with Richard Fain in Miami.”): SOLSTICE’s open deck areas, including the Lawn Club; Grand Foyer and Atrium (“We only had four to five days to install the centerpiece tree, build the scaffolding, make the vase and get Coast Guard approval -- it is the only ship where a tree grows under the grass.”); Solstice Theater (“a practical theater in the round with performers flying overhead”)

Joan Blackman/ICArt (“Celebrity has a tradition of acquiring and displaying very high-end artworks and switching the vast collection between its various ships.”): “The SOLSTICE has $6 million worth of art featuring 4,500 pieces, 3,500 of which are in the staterooms, alone. There are even 450 pieces in the crew areas. 75% of the art is by well known name artists.”

Tim McGill/5 Design (new to ship design, prior firm did the Bellagio in Las Vegas. “Quality and Choice are the main directives -- people know more than they used to. In the old days, someone would ask for a red wine. Today, they want a specific California varietal, for example.”): Shopping Areas, Casino


Mr. Bernard Meyer of Meyer Werft.

With the enthusiasm of a wide-eyed school boy, Bernard Meyer, whose last prior RCCL project was the BRILLIANCE OF THE SEAS class of ships, said the goal with SOLSTICE was to create something completely new to Post Panamax specifications that would still be relevant in ten or fifteen years. There were over 100 different GA plans submitted by 2004 when the final design was chosen.


Crepe making in the Bistro on Five.


Banana crepe in the Bistro on Five.

With gurgling stomach, I joined Oliver for a late breakfast in the Bistro on Five. We beat the mad rush but still had a twenty minute wait, all with a view and the aroma of crepes on the burner. Once seated, I thoroughly enjoyed a Mediterranean roasted chicken and garlic crepe, followed by a blood sugar-crashingly good Italian Banana Crepe laced with nutella and pistachio.


Starboard “face” from helipad.

We were granted permission to take a few structural photos from the helipad atop the bow, so made that our next destination, then proceeded through the ship to photograph the various cabins on display.


Team Earth, facing port/forward.

Team Earth, a space dedicated to consciousness versus revenue, was officially “opened” that afternoon. I missed the ribbon cutting but had a chance to ponder the displays, some of which have been provided with the cooperation and support of Conservation International.


Grand Epernay Dining Room, facing forward.

So, finally, we went to document the Grand Epernay, which was enjoying a rare moment of emptiness. “Wow!”, indeed! This is what it must have felt like in the Meridian Room of the CANBERRA in 1961 or the Chambord Restaurant in the FRANCE in 1962. Stark, pure and futuristic on a truly grand scale. The white skeletal supports are stupendous, as are the elliptical chandelier (a solar system of glass globes -- a large version of the one in the Martini Bar), the glass wine cellar and the room's stark, reserved color scheme. The carpeting even sports a geometric pattern that was evidently designed specifically for the venue.


Adam Tihany in the realm of his masterpiece, the Grand Epernay.

Adam Tihany, the room’s architect, was wrapping up a staff meeting on the lower level. I had a quick chance to ask him if he was inspired by any of the great ocean liners in designing the space. His succinct answer: “My inspiration was Calatrava, the great bridge builder.” Fantastic!


Glass Blowing demonstration.

From there it was off to the Hot Glass show on Lawn Deck for a demonstration by the Corning Museum of Glass gaffers.


Croqueters on the Bowling Green.

And while we were at it, we had a chance to see the Bowling Green in action.


Celebrity Cruises’ Dan Hanrahan.

A second press conference in the Sky Lounge followed. This one was headed by Celebrity CEO Dan Hanrahan and featured a Q & A session afterwards. I was able to ask why there is only an “X” on the forward funnel (answer: “There is a second one on the side of the ship.”) and whether there would be any significant structural or design modifications with the SOLSTICE’s under-construction sister, the EQUINOX (answer: “No. Not at this point, anyway.”). Hanrahan sounded resolute when asked if the current economic downturn might result in all five SOLSTICE class ships not being completed, “Taking all five ships makes much more economic sense than to not have them. They are even more advanced and efficient than our other ships.”

Questions were also directed to the five “Leading Ladies”; compliments from most of the press corp gushed forth and it was revealed that Celebrity’s target demographic is the Gen X'er with a median household income of $85K to 125K USD.


Chopper hovers over SOLSTICE off South Florida.

As Mr. Hanrahan and others spoke, a chopper hovered precariously close outside. It spent the next hour or so circling the ship, apparently getting some stunning images of her underway.

Finally, as the sun began setting behind the Miami to Ft. Lauderdale skyline and the SOLSTICE shared the sea lanes with an armada of departing cruise ships from both ports, I had a chance to unwind a bit in the magnificent gym, which is better than the one in my home town.

There was a cocktail party in the Solarium and my dinner was assigned in the Tuscan Grill, where I enjoyed the offerings (excellent bread, buffalo mozarella, roasted chicken and gelato) and the company of a nice group of fellow writers.


”Ghost Light” in the Solstice Theater.

Dinner ended just in time for us to catch the last number of “Ghost Light” in the Solstice Theater. After packing, I couldn’t resist joining friends in the lively Entertainment Court as a barber shop quartet performed and Quasar pulsated.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

When we awoke, the view was once again the barren landscape of Ft. Lauderdale’s as-of-yet-unbuilt new terminal. It was off to the Garden Court for a fresh omelet, some fruit and muesli, then down to il Bacio for a pair of cappuccinos before we all headed off to catch our various airport transfer buses.

Two nights on the SOLSTICE was like a whirlwind affair and very much left me wanting much, much more. A full Decked! tour will follow in the weeks to come.

End

Special thanks: Michael Bennett, Martin Cox, Lisa Harrison, Elizabeth Jakeway, Harri Kulovaara, Oliver Mueller, Tavia Robb

Bahamarama On NORWEGIAN SKYby Peter Knego

Norwegian Cruise Line

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

New! Peter Knego's 2009 Passenger Ships Calendar!

Please click on image to open a larger version. All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Thanks to fellow passenger, Ft. Lauderdale-based Michael Bennett, I was spared a rather complex commute from Ft. Lauderdale via Miami Airport to the Miami’s Dodge Island cruise terminal to board NCL’s NORWEGIAN SKY on a typically sunny, slightly humid autumn afternoon.


Monica Fotache, concierge extraordinaire.

At check-in, I was led to a special lounge with all sorts of breads, danish and juices where the ship’s charming concierge, Monica Fotache, welcomed me. The fact that she could pronounce my Croatian last name correctly was reason enough to find the Romanian-born Monica indispensable for the next four days.

Sped up by my online pre-registration, the boarding process went quickly. Within moments, I was escorted directly to security and then up a winding scaffold of ramps to the gangway. From there, a white-gloved stewardess led me along the promenade past a man with a Freestyle 2.0 "welcome tray" offering a free glass of bubbly, juice, or water.


NORWEGIAN SKY, cabin 9266, facing starboard.

Moments later, we arrived at my Category BC balcony grade cabin 9266 on aft starboard Fjord Deck (9). It was light and brightly furnished, with white laminate bulkheads making a nice contrast with NCL’s bold orange, magenta and blue bed runner. There was a small television set and plenty of storage via drawers, a wardrobe and small desk area.


Elemis toiletries.

A well-designed modular bathroom featured a circular shower, toilet and open shelves for toiletries, as well as a nice line of Elemis products (shampoo, moisturizers, conditioner, bath gel).


MV NORWEGIAN SKY, cabin 9266 balcony, facing aft.

A full length glass door accessed the “add on” balcony and, in lieu of a full-sized window, there was an oversized porthole next to the door. In this respect, the 1999-built NORWEGIAN SKY differs from her near sister, the 2001-built NORWEGIAN SUN. The SKY was designed and constructed for Costa Line as their COSTA OLYMPIA, a twin to the 1996-built COSTA VICTORIA but a dispute with the shipbuilders, Bremerhaven-based Lloyd Werft, led to Costa not taking the order. The incomplete ship was sold to NCL and finished as the NORWEGIAN SKY but with modifications that included the addition of balconies, which are cantilevered from the superstructure. The SKY’s cabins also lack the distinctive cherry wood veneers given to the slightly newer SUN and the purpose-built series of Freestyle ships that followed.

Aware of and somewhat concerned by NCL’s discounting to get people on the ship, with deals as low as $99.00 for four days, I was expecting to see a number of cutbacks in food and service options. Needless to say, I was pleasantly shocked to find the Garden Cafe offerings up to prior snuff, and especially delighted by the variety and quality of the salad bar, where my leafy pyramid included some nice extras like fresh spinach, pine nuts, avocado and sun dried tomatoes, topped with plenty of the usual balsamic, olive oil and parmesan.

As though that were not enough, I joined Michael and his friend Joe in Il Adagio for some spaghetti with marinara sauce.

During boat drill, the captain announced that we would arrive on time in Nassau the following day, which came as a bit of a surprise since the published itinerary said we would be in Freeport. He also warned that due to the remnants of Hurricane Paloma, the seas could be a bit bouncy en route.

Meanwhile, CARNIVAL IMAGINATION slipped her lines and thrust into the channel behind us, silently making her way past. Further down, the MAJESTY OF THE SEAS also prepared to sail while the CRYSTAL SYMPHONY lingered at the berth adjacent to the RCCL headquarters on the south side of Dodge Island.


Getting out of Dodge: Miami sailing day.

I was enjoying a brief flashback to my first sailing from Miami at this very same terminal way back in 1982 on Carnival’s CARNIVALE (ex EMPRESS OF BRITAIN -- which I sadly saw at Alang this past August a couple weeks after her beaching for scrap under her final name of TOPAZ). It was a much different place then, yet to hit its late 1980s renaissance and revival but the ships (AMERIKANIS, FESTIVALE, DOLPHIN, MARDI GRAS, NORWAY, SOUTHWARD, SKYWARD, STARWARD, SONG OF NORWAY, NORDIC PRINCE, SUN VIKING, EMERALD SEAS, BOHEME, etc.) were wonderful!


Sailaway deck party on NORWEGIAN SKY.

On Pool Deck, the steel band played, drinks flowed and jacuzzis, pools and deck chairs filled rapidly. It seemed as though every last one of NORWEGIAN SKY’s 2,200 guests were out to party.


Barbeque boogie.

I couldn’t resist a piece of chicken from the barbeque, then watched from my balcony as the pilot boat made several attempts to retrieve the pilot in the swells off Miami. Finally, the little craft sped back in the twilight, bouncing in a white froth behind us.


NORWEGIAN SKY gym.

I next went to the excellent gym for an early evening workout. Amazingly, the gym remains open 24 hours on NCL ships, which is a nice option for “night people” like myself. A good round on the ellipticals and some stretching helped undo some of the rich food and wine from the prior evenings and would allow me a chance to have another go at the Garden Cafe’s salad bar and some truly excellent tandoori chicken, crispy papadams, saffron rice and spicy eggplant.

Afterwards, I tried to watch some of the show from the balcony of the SRO Stardust Theater but it was basically the cruise director doing a Dudley Moore-meets-Austin Powers comedy routine. I wandered the other public rooms, then took a walk around deck before heading back to 9266 to catch up on some writing and photo sizing.

Tuesday, November 11, 2008


NORWEGIAN SKY and CARNIVAL SENSATION at Nassau.

I cracked the curtains this morning at 7:00 AM to find us in moderately choppy Nassau roads. Instead of entering the breakwater, however, we veered off to port and spun around to make another approach. I could see Carnival’s CARNIVAL SENSATION and RCCL’s MAJESTY OF THE SEAS had already berthed, so decided it would be safe to crawl back in bed for another hour of sleep.


Cagney’s Katherine Soriano.

“How about another cappuccino?”, asked Katherine Soriano as I stared out the window overlooking Nassau’s narrow Paradise Island. How nice to begin the day in the cool, quiet sanctuary of Cagney’s on aft starboard Deck 12. A wonderful set up of fresh fruit and berries, cheeses, salmon and condiments awaited in the aft corner of the room along with cereals, yogurt and muesli.

For breakfast and lunch, the extra tariff Cagney’s is reserved for suite passengers, offering special menus featuring freshly prepared items. The Plantation Club on the port side of Deck 12 serves as the concierge lounge until 5:00 PM when the bar opens up.


Dobar tek! Over easies in Cagney’s.

I returned to my seat with a full plate just as Katherine arrived with my second cappuccino and a pair of perfectly cooked over easies. Waking up would be less painful this morning.

In the ensuing moments, I had met the entire Cagney’s morning wait staff, from assistant maitre’d Grace Monsalve (Manila, Philippines), waiter Adrian Ungurasu (Bulgaria), and waitress Dragana Opsenica (Croatia). Dragana politely asked where I came from, “because your name is very familiar in Croatia. There is a famous basketball player named Andrew Knego.”

I explained that my father was from Dubrovnik but that I had lost contact with his family many years ago. And that, unfortunately, I had absolutely no basketball skills.

Mirsad Bucuk, the NORWEGIAN SKY’s food and beverage manager, came to say hello. “Mr. Knego, may I ask where you are from?” Another Croatian! Was anyone left in Dubrovnik? I later realized that this day would have been my father’s 90th birthday, so maybe a bit of his spirit was in the room.

The lovely Katherine soon returned, “How about another cappuccino, Mr. Knego?”

"Absolutely!"


Matson menu stairs.


Well-lei’d carpeting.

Propelled by the caffeine, I spent the next couple hours systematically documenting the ship. It had been almost nine years since my first and only prior visit to the NORWEGIAN SKY during her maiden Miami cruise season. Many spaces, such as the stairtowers and their Matson menu art murals, the Garden Cafe buffet, the Outrigger observation lounge, the Coffee Bar and Dazzles sported bright Hawaiian color schemes from the ship’s last incarnation as NCL America’s PRIDE OF ALOHA.


MALOLO in the mural: Palace Dining Room.


Aloha atrium: MV NORWEGIAN SKY.

Some places, such as the Palace Dining Room and soaring atrium were a combination of original and Hawaiian.


Crossings lobby.

Other spaces, such as the Stardust Theater, Mark Twain Lounge and the Crossings Dining Room were very much “as built”.


Greek salad in Cagney’s.

At about noon, I decided to head off to the local Starbucks for some internet access, but stopped in Cagney’s for a quick Greek salad. Admittedly, I had been spoiled by the suite dining experience, which when traveling alone, was hassle free. There was certainly nothing wrong with the food in the Garden Cafe but finding a table and keeping it when getting up for another course or a drink was a challenge on such a full ship.


Bahamian bollard.

One of the nicest things about Nassau is its deep blue water and the piercing blue skies, which are often filled with dramatic clouds. It makes an excellent backdrop for photographing ships, my favorite pastime when going ashore.


Atlantis Casino and Resort, Nassau.

Nassau has great appeal for those seeking casinos and shops. A huge shopping arcade is located in the adjacent passenger terminal and ferries provide regular service to the sprawling Atlantis Casino and Resort. There are also glass bottom boats, historic harbor cruises, city tours, a submarine ride, museum visits and dolphin swims available for those so inclined.


MV NORWEGIAN SKY 3/4 sternward at Nassau.


Bahamian Bows: NORWEGIAN SKY (L), CARNIVAL SENSATION (C), MAJESTY OF THE SEAS (R). Photo and copyright Michael Bennett 2008.


Bird Prism at Nassau.

I had finally posted the prior blog when I left Starbucks at 5:00 PM with a leisurely hour to get back to the ship, so enjoyed another quayside round with the cameras.


Busy night out on NORWEGIAN SKY: Freestyle Dining TV Screen. Photo and copyright Michael Bennett 2008.


Captains on the bridge: Captain Roger Gustavsen and Staff Captain Stefan Nording.

I felt very privileged to have dinner in the extra tariff ($25) Cagney’s with Captain Gustavsen, Staff Captain Nording, the ship’s Austrian hostess Julia, and Monica. The captains shared some fond memories of NORWAY and other past NCL ships as the ladies and I shared a nice bottle of chianti. Service was impeccable and the meal was perfection, from a beefsteak tomato and onion salad, a rotisserie free range chicken with baked potato and steamed asparagus to an apple crumble with vanilla ice cream. All in all, it was on par with or possibly even better than my Grill Room dining experiences on Cunard.


Full moon over NORWEGIAN SKY.

A full moon hovered overhead as NORWEGIAN SKY lazily made her way through the swells to Great Stirrup Cay. I was looking forward to getting some nice shots of the ship from the LITTLE NORWAY I or II and taking a dip in the crystalline waters of NCL’s private out island.

Wednesday, November 12, 2008


A little stir up cancels Great Stirrup Cay.

Curtains drawn, I tossed about atop my customized duvet and pillow mound, earplugs loosened just enough to hear Captain Gustavsen on the ship’s intercom explaining that the swells off Great Stirrup Cay were too severe to allow tendering this morning. Instead of anchoring at NCL’s out island, we would spend a day at sea. The captain concluded his announcement by stating he was solely responsible for the decision, one he did not take lightly, and to please direct complaints and comments to him and not NCL or the people at the reception desk. A real “the buck stops here” kind of guy.


Oglio and balsamico in Cagney’s.

My original intent was to ride the tender back and forth a couple times for optimal footage of the SKY at anchor, then dive into the clear blue water for a quick swim before returning to the ship. Instead, as the SKY gently lurched along, I lingered longer in the shelter of 9266, caught up on some writing, and made my way up to Cagney’s for lunch. Adrian brought me a nice duet of olive oil and vinegar to slosh some very flaky NCL artisan bread in, a round of cappuccinos, and the menu. After a lovely bruschetta and a Greek salad, I headed into the “real world” of the Garden Cafe for a full onslaught of courses, from roasted chicken to more Indian specialties and the salad bar. Quality, variety and quantity.

A quick work out, a thirty minute suntan on forward Deck 12 and a nice view of an oncoming FANTASY-class ship filled out the rest of the afternoon. The SKY bobbed a bit but was relatively undaunted by the white-capped seas, which would have been an entirely different animal from the perspective of a tender.


NORWEGIAN SKYs executive chef, Anil Kumar, right.

At 4:00 PM, I met Anil Kumar, the NORWEGIAN SKY’s executive chef, for a tour of the spotless galley. It was most interesting to watch as 2,000 dinners’ worth of sauces simmered, breads baked and potatoes peeled. What a mind boggle to imagine this place during peak hours with waiters systematically placing orders, then gathering various salads, soups and appetizers from the myriad stations, navigating through other waiters, and then returning to the dining room with stacks of trays to disperse with a smile. Mr. Kumar, a native of Hyderabad, said it takes a while for most new waiters to get accustomed to the system but that once they do, it is a relatively easy process.

Mr. Kumar came to NCL four years ago from Seabourn. He owns a culinary school in Hyderabad (with galley equipment purchased from the BIG BOAT (ex TRANSVAAL CASTLE, SA VAAL, FESTIVALE, ISLAND BREEZE, BIG RED BOAT III)) shortly after she beached at Alang. Ironically, he began his career with that ship when she was sailing for Premier and also served on the SEAWIND CROWN (ex INFANTE DOM HENRIQUE, etc.) and OCEANBREEZE (ex SOUTHERN CROSS, etc.).


Night SKY pool.

More gym, more writing and dinner in the Garden Cafe, capped off with some ice cream dipped in the chocolate fountain (conjuring up unexpected childhood Foster’s Freeze flashbacks) pretty much summed up my laid back sea day on the SKY. For the livelier crowd (and my guess is that it numbered close to 2,200), the night would blaze on under the stars and in various venues with the "White Hot" Freestlye 2.0 party.

Thursday, November 13, 2008


MV NORWEGIAN DREAM at Freeport.

My diminutive travel alarm started its hummingbird jackhammer routine shortly after dawn. From my balcony, I could see the palm-fringed skyline of Freeport, Grand Bahama. Some familiar funnels poked their way through the mist, all dwarfed by RCCL’s looming MONARCH OF THE SEAS, which was in dry dock prior to assuming her new Port Canaveral-based duties after several years on the West Coast.

By the time I reached the observation area on forward Deck 11, we had passed the very derelict 1975-built, 15,409 gt ISLAND ADVENTURE (ex KAZAKHSTAN, ROYAL SEAS, UKRAINA) off our port side. She had been towed away from Fort Lauderdale a couple days prior and was on standby in the roads awaiting a berth assignment. Rumors are that the rust-streaked ship, which last operated on day cruise gambling service for now-defunct SeaEscape, has been sold for further service. Another significant “catch” was the anchored, 1992-built, 50,764 gt NORWEGIAN DREAM (ex DREAMWARD), which had just finished up her final scheduled Bermuda cruise for NCL. Her sale to Cyprus-based Louis Cruise Lines fell through and now the ship awaits reassignment in the Star/NCL fleet or, more likely, another sales prospect. Freeport has become the Eleusis of the West, a temporary home for disenfranchised cruise ships of all shapes and sizes.


MV BAHAMAS CELEBRATION and MV REGAL EMPRESS at Freeport.

And then the layers of inner Freeport harbor began to unfold. In the first basin lay the handsome BAHAMAS CELEBRATION, still very much in her Color Line colors with deep blue hull and white finned funnel, sans logo. The 35,855 gt, 1980-built former PRINSESSE RAGNHILD is undergoing conversion to a Bahamian cruise ship for new owners, Celebration Cruise Holdings, Inc. She is expected to enter service in mid to late January from Fort Lauderdale.

On the other end of the harbor, the recently-arrived, vintage beauty REGAL EMPRESS awaited a brief return to service following relief duties for Hurricane Ike workers at Galveston, Texas. Funnel glinting in the sun, the lovely RE looked proud, if a bit impatient to resume sailing for Imperial Majesty Cruises. It was hard to focus on anything but this glorious former transatlantic anomaly, which celebrated her fifty fifth birthday this year.


MV REGAL EMPRESS with MV MONARCH OF THE SEAS in the distance at Freeport.

Between REGAL E and the aforementioned and quite distant MONARCH OF THE SEAS, lay another mystery solved.


MV CASINO ROYALE at Freeport.

The 1974-built, 8,500 gt CASINO ROYALE (ex CASTALIA, etc.), which has had more names and false starts than just about any passenger ship in history, lay awaiting yet another return to service for new owners, according to Freeport scuttlebutt. OMEGA ROYALE will supposedly be her next name. Why not?


MV BAHAMAS CELEBRATION at Freeport.

I was getting very accustomed to breakfast and cappuccinos in Cagney’s. It also provided a nice view of the terminal area, which is undergoing a major refit. Beyond, in blue, beckoned the BAHAMAS CELEBRATION, my first stop for the day.

I will post a fully illustrated report in a forthcoming Decked! blog, so please stay tuned for that (No less than four Decked! features -- RUBY PRINCESS, NORWEGIAN SKY, BAHAMAS CELEBRATION and CELEBRITY SOLSTICE -- are lined up, when time permits).

Workers in hard hats and overalls scurried about the BAHAMAS CELEBRATION. Pool areas are being added to the uppermost deck forward of the funnel and at the stern. Cabin bedding is being replaced, new carpeting laid, restaurants modified and a casino installed. The ship has some spectacular architectural spaces that include a vast atrium with glass elevators, a double deck show room, a lovely suite of dining areas, and the aforementioned casino, which will be forged from a two deck auditorium.


BAHAMAS CELEBRATION’s hotel manager, Alain Chabot.

One of my all-time favorite sea people, Alain Chabot (ex PRINCE GEORGE, Paquet, OCEANBREEZE) is the BAHAMAS CELEBRATION’s hotel manager. I stopped at his office for a brief visit while he coordinated workers and deliveries on that rather frenzied morning. There was much to be done in order to deliver the ship in January.


MV NORWEGIAN SKY at Freeport.

From the BC, there was a nice view of the NORWEGIAN SKY as the sun shifted into afternoon mode, lighting up the ship’s starboard side.


Ranito Sabino and his favorite classic ship.

Another friendly, familiar face, Manila-based Ranito Sabino, escorted me from BAHAMAS CELEBRATION across a cargo depot to the other side of Freeport where REGAL EMPRESS awaited. Ranito was my cabin steward during my most recent sailing on the REGAL EMPRESS, which I will apparently never see or experience enough of.


Sand EMPRESS.

REGAL EMPRESS returned early from her Texas duties and on December 1, will commence a new Fort Lauderdale-based service to Freeport and Nassau on alternating three and two night voyages. Anyone with the slightest interest in classic ships that has not tried the REGAL EMPRESS now has one more chance. Ft. Lauderdale-based agency Travel With Katy is offering some very attractively priced sailings in December and January.


REGAL EMPRESS Caribbean Restaurant, facing aft.

Hotel manager Virginia Sy greeted me at the REGAL E’s gangway and escorted me up to the officer’s dining room where Captain Matco Antisic offered me lunch. I only had a few minutes before I was due back on NORWEGIAN SKY, so had to decline, but not before Captain Antisic gave me a now familiar look. “Mr. Knego, where are you from?”

If ever I regretted my father not teaching me Croatian, it had to be this week. Hailing from a long line of sea-faring Croats (his father was once captain of DALMACIJA) Captain Antisic served on DALMACIJA as well as JADRAN, JEDINTSVO, and JUGOSLAVIA.

Quickly, I stopped in the lustrous Caribbean Restaurant, delighted to find it in immaculate condition, missing only its table settings and a fresh crop of passengers. Virginia told me quite proudly that during the Galveston relief service, the carpets were all covered and workers’ shoes were removed at the gangway.


Captain Matco Antisic and Hotel Manager Virginia Sy on the bridge of the REGAL EMPRESS.

Frustratingly, there was no time to visit the Regal Club or the Library. “Are you sure?”, Virginia nudged. I did get out to the fo’c’sle head for my obligatory “face shot”, then it was up to the bridge to say goodbye the good captain, who will stay with the ship until his contract ends in December.


Curves, glorious curves: REGAL EMPRESS’ superstructure. They had faces then...


REGAL EMPRESS bowlines.

Kudos to Imperial Majesty Cruises for taking such good care of the REGAL EMPRESS and for assembling one of the kindest, most hard-working crews afloat.


MV NORWEGIAN SKY at Freeport.


Freeport bazaar under the NORWEGIAN SKY.

I made it back to the NORWEGIAN SKY in time for my appointment, then piled up a fantastic spinach salad in the Garden Cafe before trying to find a wi-fi spot outside the ship. No luck from several vantages, so I resigned myself to being a bit late with blog postings and returned to my Freestyle sanctuary an hour before our scheduled 5:00 PM departure.


MV ISLAND ADVENTURE at Freeport.

While I was racing around the REGAL EMPRESS, the ISLAND ADVENTURE was towed to a berth on the north side of the main harbor channel. NORWEGIAN SKY maneuvered past her as the sun set. Hopefully, it would not be the last time I would see this interesting former Soviet ship.


Il Adagio Caesar Salad. Photo and copyright Michael Bennett 2008.


Il Adagio tiramisu. Photo and copyright Michael Bennett 2008.

I was joined by Michael and Joe in the extra tariff ($10 per person) Il Adagio at 7:30 PM. Our waiter seemed a bit hurried and forgot to offer us the usual antipasti before rushing us through our various courses. Admittedly, it was not the best meal I had on the ship but we enjoyed it, nonetheless. And the tiramisu was outstanding.

With another inaugural cruise to go, I packed carefully, then hit the hay at a moderately early midnight.

Friday, November 14, 2008

A final morning in Cagney’s has convinced me that I really do like breakfast. Three days’ worth of perfectly-cooked eggs delivered piping hot, lovely melons and berries, magical muesli and an endless flow of cappuccinos would be sorely missed but not as much as the NORWEGIAN SKY's staff, a wonderful, hard-working, and dedicated team.

We met Monica in Captain Cook’s Lounge and got to experience yet another hassle-free, expedient NCL disembark as she swiped our keycards and bid us goodbye. It was hard to imagine that in just a couple hours, she would be back to square one, greeting her next batch of guests in the concierge hospitality lounge. How do they do it?

Special thanks: Captain Matco Antisic, Michael Bennet, Alain Chabot, Martin Cox, Monica Fotache, Captain Roger Gustavsen, AnnMarie Mathews, Captain Stefan Nording, Courtney Recht, Glenn Ryerson, Ranito Sabino, Virginia Sy

End. Finalized November 29, 2008.

RUBY Revelations(RUBY PRINCESS Inaugural)by Peter Knego

Princess Cruises

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

New! Peter Knego's 2009 Passenger Ships Calendar!

Please click on image to open a larger version. All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted.

Finalized: November 17, 2008

Wednesday, November 5, 2008


RUBY PRINCESS on trials. Photo Courtesy of Princess Cruises.


RUBY PRINCESS builder’s plate.

After months of anticipation, the time had finally come to jet off to Florida for two inaugurals and a four night Bahamas cruise. It would all begin with Princess Cruises’ recently delivered 113,000 gt MV RUBY PRINCESS, the last scheduled newbuild for Princess Cruises and the third in the modified GRAND Class CROWN series. RUBY PRINCESS was built by Fincantieri’s Monfalcone (near Trieste) yard, can carry 3,080 passengers (1,225 crew), measures 951 by 118 feet (with a draft of 26 feet), sports fifteen passenger decks and a service speed of 21.5 knots. She will be featured extensively from top to bottom in a forthcoming Decked! blog on MaritimeMatters.


RUBY welcome at Fort Lauderdale.

With a 7:40 AM departure via American Airlines from LAX to Miami, I left the house at 4:00 AM, which doesn’t always portend the most physically pleasant of days. On the flight, I enjoyed a nice conversation with my seat-mates, one of whom is a reservations agent at Cunard who won a company essay-writing contest. Her prize was the pre-christening and inaugural cruise aboard RUBY PRINCESS.

After almost two hours of shuttling up from Miami, the silhouettes of the brand new RUBY PRINCESS and her introductory nemesis, Celebrity’s sparkling CELEBRITY SOLSTICE, appeared amidst the condos, cranes, hotels and power plant chimneys of Port Everglades. Their glass panels were reflecting the last rays of a fiery sunset.


RUBY PRINCESS mini-suite D731, facing starboard.

I was told only some fifty guests would be staying on the ship overnight, although several functions were being held for a few hundred local visitors. I arrived at my wonderfully spacious mini-suite D731 on aft starboard Dolphin Deck (9) around 6:00 PM, with a few moments to unpack and then run up to the Fitness Center on forward Lido Deck (15) for a round on the ellipticals and some post-commute back unbending.

Shortly after my Hamburg-based cabin mate, Oliver Mueller, arrived at 7:00 PM, we headed to open seating dinner in the Da Vinci Restaurant. That evening, the only other active public venues were the International Cafe at the starboard base of the Piazza on Plaza Deck (5), Crooners on midships Promenade Deck (7), and The Wheelhouse Bar on forward Promenade Deck (7). At midnight, the ship would virtually shut down in preparation for Thursday’s gala inaugural ceremonies.

Even though there were not many guests on board, the 514 seat Da Vinci was set up for dinner between 7:00 and 8:30 PM and a special menu with two starters, a soup or pasta and a main course. I chose the pumpkin and turnip soup with purple basil and the turbot fillet over fingerling potatoes and melted leeks with truffle dressing. Our waiter Bogdan (Romania) and assistant waiter Sam (Thailand) seemed genuinely pleased to be working with “real” passengers and were extremely helpful and efficient.

I actually had the will power to resist the “Love Boat Dream” chocolate extravaganza (in deference to a good night’s sleep) but did cave in on some strawberry ice cream and Princess’ extraordinary homemade biscotti sans the coffee aperitif it was designed to accompany. After that, a walk or two around the mostly empty outer decks in the balmy Florida air was absolutely necessary!


Movies Under The Stars in the Neptune Pool area on pre-inaugural night.

While roaming the Neptune pool area, we met the beaming Danielle Vurpillat and Kip Hickman from Dunsmuir, Calif., winner of the Princess Cruises/USA TODAY “Romance on the Ruby Contest”. As a reward for their submission, they would be wed in the next day’s christening ceremony.

Thursday, November 6, 2008


RUBY PRINCESS at Fort Lauderdale.

Coffee, juice and muesli arrived promptly at 8:30 AM, just before I began a 113,000 gt documentation trek which spanned from the lower level of the 800 seat Princess Theater on forward Plaza Deck (5) to the jogging track atop Star Deck (19).


Fitness Center facing port from forward.

Finally, at 1:00 PM, I returned for an afternoon workout in the excellent Fitness Center with its army of cardio machines overlooking the bow (and a distant view of RCCL's ENCHANTMENT OF THE SEAS and Princess' ISLAND PRINCESS), rewarding it with two slices of Princess’ delicious Margherita from the Pizza Bar adjacent to the Neptune Pool, which I shuttled down to the cabin in time to grab my lifejacket and join Oliver for boat drill muster on aft Promenade Deck (7) in Club Fusion.


Parmesan blizzard in Horizon’s

After the drill, I took a break and caught lunch in Horizon’s, which included my trademark mountain of salad topped with fresh olive oil, balsamic vinegar and a generous amount of parmesan, accompanied with a grilled chicken breast and a bowl of garlic and lemon-laced gazpacho.


Setting the bottle in place.


RUBY roses.


Rubybubbly.

Afterwards, I had a chance to wander the upper decks for a sneak peek as preparations were in full gear for the christening.


RUBY PRINCESS’ inaugural bride, Danielle Vurpillat, the future Mrs. Kip Hickman.

Once attired in “Ruby Red Tie” formals, we headed up to starboard Lido Deck to watch the christening at 5:00 PM. En route, we encountered Danielle in her wedding gown as she readied for her bridal entrance.

A wave of ruby-red roses, bunting, gowns, ties, vests, shirts and shoes flowed across the ship’s upper decks while the sun hovered in a more temperate position in the late afternoon sky. Service staff weaved in and out of the pulsating black and red mass with trays of maroon Korbel mimosas and other appropriately colored potions. Officers and crew filed up the staircases and balconies leading up to the altar-like midships Sky Deck (18) before the band opened with “Isn’t She Lovely”, followed by “The Way You Look Tonight” and “How Sweet It Is”. When the rhythm section broke into “The Love Boat Theme”, Gavin McLeod, television’s original Captain Steubing and Princess Cruises spokesman, introduced energetic red haired cruise director James Lay. A procession of dignitaries were then announced, including Princess Cruises President and CEO Alan Buckelew, RUBY PRINCESS' Captain Tony Yeomans, Carnival Corp. CEO/Chairman Mickey Arison, Lois Wexler (mayor of Broward County), Phil Allen (director of Port Everglades) and the invoking pastor. When the brass cued back in, photogenic co-god parents and "The Bachelorette" reality show marrieds Ryan and Trista Sutter entered from stage right.

Red haired Philippa Huxley, Princess Cruises' very own Sarah Brightman, sang the American National Anthem before speeches by Mr. Buckelew, Mayor Wexler and Mr. Allen. The ISLAND PRINCESS and ENCHANTMENT OF THE SEAS provided the occasional interruption with their departing whistle blasts.


Left to right: Mickey Arision (Carnival Corp. chairman), Ryan Sutter (co-RUBY PRINCESS god parent), Trista Sutter (co-RUBY PRINCESS god parent), Alan Buckelew (President/CEO Princess Cruises).

I'm still trying to figure out how Danielle managed to get up to the top of midships Deck 18 in that bridal gown without anyone seeing (or was I just appropriately focused on all the other festivities). In any case, she made a grand bridal entrance, clasping the hand of each staff member positioned on the three deck descent, joining Gavin, who escorted her to a platform on starboard Deck 15 where she joined Kip for the actual wedding (in the presence of Trista and Ryan) by minister Phil Roberts. Faces lit in a perfect sunset glow, the dignitaries looked on as the brief ceremony was performed to much fanfare. After the traditional blessing, Ryan and Trista took to the podium do the actual naming, releasing the bottle into the bulkhead just below. One man in the crowd hopped over the barricade to rescue the red ribbon from the bottle debris before it was swept away.


Christening confetti.


Post-christening RUBY sunset, facing forward from midships Deck 17.

As the upper decks cleared, most guests headed down to various celebratory functions. The media group was off to Adagio's for a cocktail party prior to dinner in Sabatinis.


Left to right: Idalmis Hernandez, Gavin McLeod, Andres Hernandez.

The ever-approachable Gavin McLeod circulated amongst the crowd, stopping to pose with friends, old and new. We were seated with Miami-based writer/photographers Andy and Idalmis Hernandez, giving us much time to catch up all things liner-oriented as the courses and wine flowed.


Inaugural dessert.

The specially-created dessert was "Romantica Ruby", a peach melba mousse with a raspberry rose center, pink champagne sorbet and a crunchy tuile (which resembled the grillwork funnel casing).


Abbacadabra.

Seduced by the perfect vocal harmonies of Agnetha and Anni-Frid, the flawless production and ancient folk-based songwriting of Benny Anderson and Bjorn Ulvaeus, I was obsessed with ABBA before it was acceptable in America. After a slew of movies made their infectious music "safe" to enjoy in retrospect, came "Mama Mia". Unlike the play and movie, which center around a cast of completely forgettable characters in a campily implausible story, the show Abbacadabra gets right to the point. Debuting on RUBY PRINCESS, it is the lost ABBA concert we all wished we attended, basically recreating all the hits with maybe the exception of "The Winner Takes It All" and "When All Is Said And Done."


Abbacadabra, ctd.

The live female vocals were outstanding, as were the costumes and the show's pace. It was 1977 at the Anaheim Civic Center all over again!


Abbacadabra, ctd.

All of this without the fake Corfu backdrop, contrite escapades and Pierce Brosnan!


Abbacadabra, ctd.

The show closed with, of course, "Dancing Queen", which was cleverly juxtaposed with Queen's "Bohemian Rhapsody". Hmmm, do I detect a "We Will Rock You" show in the works?


Maitre d’Extraordinaire Generoso Mazzone begins the champagne waterfall.

An epicurean feast and an ABBA reunion concert were not all Princess had in store for us that night. There was a champagne waterfall hosted in the Piazza by the amazing maitre'd Generoso Mazzone at 11:30 PM, just as RUBY PRINCESS began to hit some slight swells.

It was off to the cabin to unravel and deformalize after an eventful day. On CNN, protestors in California fought for their rights to marry in the wake of Proposition Eight. Irony on the seven seas.

Friday, November 7, 2008


Totally random RUBY carpet shot.

113,000 gt in two days is a lot of ship to digest! Fortunately, I spent two weeks on RUBY’s twin, EMERALD PRINCESS, last year. I grew to appreciate just how well this class of ship is designed with their excellent passenger flow and plenty of clever coves and corners to escape the hustle and bustle, when desired. The adults-only Sanctuary is pure bliss and well worth it’s modest cost on long sea days and the entertainment venues and restaurants are so well situated that it rarely ever feels as though one is on a 3,000 passenger ship.

Before attending the press conference in Adagios at 11:00 AM, I stopped at the Piazza for a cappuccino pick-me-up. Not surprisingly, many of the other media peeps had the same stimulating agenda. At the conference, which was headed by Princess Cruises’ president and CEO Alan Buckelew, Senior VP of Sales Jan Swartz and Senior VP of Fleet Operations Ray Colouri, most questions focused on the dire status of the economy and its impact on Princess and cruise lines in general.


Pub lunch is served!

With no newbuilds on the table (although a new design has been tendered), Princess’ primary focus will be on maintaining quality and expanding options, such as the complimentary English Pub Lunch the RUBY would be premiering in the Wheelhouse Bar that day. On the official maiden cruise (departing Saturday, November 8, 2008), the “Ultimate Ship Tour” would be launched, providing limited amounts of people access to behind-the-scenes areas of the ship for a $150 fee.
I asked if the RUBY had any technical or design nuances that set her apart from the EMERALD and CROWN to which Mr. Colouri’s simple answer was “No. They are identical.”


Princess' CEO and President Alan Buckelew (L) receives the 2008 "Best Itineraries" award from Seven Seas Society's Oliver Mueller(R).

After the conference, Oliver Mueller presented Mr. Buckelew with an award from the Seven Seas Society.


Portside passage from Deck 18.

After getting a photo or two of the English Pub Lunch and some more overall views of the ship, it was back to the cabin to sort out some computer issues and get photos sized for the blog.


Gavin McLeod in the Princess Theater.

My usual salad thing followed, and then, at 3:30, it was off to a nostalgic tribute to Gavin McLeod in the Princess Theater. What many people do not realize is just what great and varied work he had done on stage and screen prior to “The Mary Tyler Moore Show” and “The Love Boat”. He seemed genuinely touched by the adulation in the auditorium.

I squeezed in one last workout, then joined the group for an elegantly presented farewell dinner in the Crown Grill.

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Few things are worse than the last morning of a cruise! Alarms buzz, announcements are made, people tend to be in a dour mood as they shuffle off with their luggage, etc., etc. At least today, there would be no airports and planes to suffer!


Knud E. Hansen flying saucer funnel: MV DISCOVERY SUN.


DISCOVERY SUN sails into the sun.

Breakfast in Horizon Court was taken out to the aft Lido Deck terrace to watch as the little DISCOVERY SUN (ex FREEPORT, CARIBE, etc.) coughed out a pillar of copper-colored smoke from her delicious Knud E. Hansen saucer-topped funnel and sailed off to Freeport. These are the twilight years of a long career that began way back in 1968 when she was considered one of Miami’s state-of-the-art cruise ships.

We wheeled our luggage off the RUBY PRINCESS around 9:30 and tried to get a cab to the nearby Hilton Grande Hotel but the driver refused us since it would not be worth his while. So, we rolled everything four blocks, left our bags with the bell captain and got another cab to downtown Fort Lauderdale to catch the 11:00 AM CARRIE B harbor cruise.


ISLAND ADVENTURE awaits a new venture.

Although it is no longer a bargain at a whopping $20 per person, the faux paddlewheel-equipped CARRIE B provides a rare opportunity to photograph ships in Port Everglades. Today’s cast would include the RUBY PRINCESS, CELEBRITY SOLSTICE, the rust-streaked ISLAND ADVENTURE (ex KAZAKHSTAN) and the EURODAM. The ninety minute cruise not only covers the harbor area but criss-crosses the residential canals and provides views of some of the area’s most expensive homes.


Ruby greens.

Fort Lauderdale departures are particularly nice, thanks to the people who live in the condominium towers on the north side of the harbor channel. When ships pass, they are greeted with waves, sirens, bells, and sometimes their owner’s houseflag draped across a balcony or two. William and Katy Hoey, with whom I have had the pleasure of sailing on the MONTEREY, own a unit on the west side corner of the eighth floor. With glee, we accepted their invitation to come and photograph the evening cruise ship departures!


MV EURODAM departs Fort Lauderdale.


RUBY PRINCESS maiden departure from Fort Lauderdale.

Beginning on time at 5:00 PM, the EURODAM freed her lines and head into the channel, followed by the RUBY PRINCESS, who was now officially on her maiden voyage. The clouds absorbed and refracted the setting sunlight, producing a variety of splendid colors and reflections as the two behemoths neared. Bill and Katy were the first to urge the ships to whistle, holding their HAL and Princess banners over the balcony railing and ringing their brass bell. A fantastic aural frenzy followed with whistles blasting, echoing, and blasting again as the two sailed past. Magnifico!


CELEBRITY SOLSTICE at Fort Lauderdale.

Meanwhile, the fully-lit but silent CELEBRITY SOLSTICE looked on, anticipating her first Fort Lauderdale departure (on Monday, November 10). She will be featured in an upcoming Sea Treks.


William and Katy Hoey with the RUBY PRINCESS.

What a perfect way to end this latest adventure, with the RUBY PRINCESS chasing EURODAM into the balmy Florida seas!

Very special thanks: Julie Benson, Karen Candy, Michelle Colligan, Martin Cox, Brian Henriksen, William and Katy Hoey, Caroline Klein, Steven Kravitz

Finalized: November 17, 2008