Abbreviated DISCOVERY Blog by Peter Knego

Voyages Of Discovery

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Antarctica Cruise on MV DISCOVERY Blog by Peter Knego

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Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine



All photos by and copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted. Note: please click on image to view a larger version.

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Perhaps it was a harbinger of things to come that British Airways lost my luggage as I transited between the Scylla and Charybdis of Paris' nasty Charles de Gaulle Airport and London’s incredibly inept Heathrow (and the especially dreaded Terminal Five) following my visit to St. Nazaire (see prior blog). Thankfully, dear friends in Valley Stream, just a few miles from New York’s JFK airport, were ready and willing to help me shop for some “emergency” clothing on my overnight before this latest journey, a thirteen night crossing from Barbados to Harwich on board one of the few interesting classic ships left: Voyages of Discovery’s 1972-built 20,216 gt MV DISCOVERY (ex ISLAND VENTURE, ISLAND PRINCESS, HYUNDAI PUNGAK, PLATINUM). I was already well-acquainted with DISCOVERY, having spent youthful days visiting her in Los Angeles when she operated for Princess Cruises and, more recently, sailing on one of her Antarctic voyages.


MV DISCOVERY at Barbados.

As we flew over Barbados’ harbor, just the fin funneled silhouette of our ship lay alongside the passenger terminal.


DISCOVERY gangway at Barbados.


Welcome crew.


Cabin 5406, facing port.

My traveling companion, Rob DiStefano, and I arrived at the MV DISCOVERY in the mid-afternoon following a relatively quick transfer from the airport. Embarkation was speedy and we were almost immediately shown to cabin 5406 on aft/port Deck Five. An outside with two picture windows, two twin beds, a dresser, writing desk, plenty of closet space and a w/c with shower, it was to have been our cozy but comfortable nest for the next thirteen days.

I had been anticipating this cruise for several months. Aside from being my first Atlantic crossing, it would call at three new places for me: Horta, Ponta Delgada and Angra do Heroismo.

In the paperwork laid out on the bed, however, a note read: "Dear Passenger...DISCOVERY recently experienced problems with one of its four main engines while sailing up the Amazon. Initial reports indicated repairs would be completed by the time we were due to depart Barbados today. However, the engineers who boarded the ship in Barbados to asses the work carried out so far have given their final verdict this morning that more work has to be carried out before the engine can be put back into service... Work will continue 'on the run' as we cross the Atlantic but it is unlikely this will be finished before our arrival in Harwich. We must therefore plan to operate DISCOVERY at a reduced speed. As a result, it will be necessary to cancel calls at Horta and Angra do Heroismo...As a gesture of goodwill, we have arranged for all passengers to receive an 'on board credit' of $200 per person....In addition, we are offering you a 20% discount off any future cruise taken with us before October 2009."

Even though we were naturally disappointed that the itinerary had been changed, there would be plenty to do, including a chance to savor some extra sea time after a rather hectic few months of travel.


Maritime Memories plaque.

This crossing was a special Maritime Memories voyage, with over 200 former British merchant seamen and their spouses celebrating the glory days of ships as diverse as Elder Dempster’s AUREOL, Shaw Savill’s SOUTHERN CROSS, Orient Line’s ORIANA, and so many others before the empire of the ocean liner crumbled and gave way to today’s generic cruise fleet.


Des Cox and his lovely wife, Ulla. Photo by Rob DiStefano.

The brainchild of Snowbow Videos' very own Des Cox, a former British pop star and television host, the Maritime Memories cruises have become a huge success in recent years and the DISCOVERY now serves as a home away from home for these colorful veterans of the sea. Houseflags representing most of the major liner companies are flown from the radio mast, models and memorabilia are on display, Cox’s brilliant Great Liners series (the best passenger ship videos available) are programmed on the shipboard television, special menus are recreated from past liners and a lecture program about ocean liners and merchant ships is featured. On the latter, I looked forward to participating, having inundated my laptop with images from ex AUREOL, AUGUSTUS, CATHAY, INDEPENDENCE, ORIANA, AMERICA, UNITED STATES, and more in their final days, as well as studies of the evolution of 20th century passenger ship interiors and a presentation on Alang.


3/4 stern view of MV DISCOVERY at Barbados.

Tired from the flight, neither Rob nor I had much of an urge to explore Barbados, so we unpacked, walked around the harbor area to get shots of our pretty cruise ship, ventured to afternoon tea in the Lido for a turkey and cheese sandwich and attended the muster drill in the handsome, dual level Discovery Lounge.


MV DISCOVERY at Barbados.


More DISCOVERY at Barbados, ctd.

We ventured back off after dark to get more views of the illuminated ship as it would be our only chance with the newly truncated itinerary. What I first thought was a large leaf blowing around the pavement turned out, upon closer inspection, to be a frantic crab racing in circles, claws in air. We tried to persuade the frazzled crustacean to run towards the water, but he had no patience for us and skittled cartoonishly toward the terminal, vanishing in the darkness.


Showtime in the Carousel Lounge.


Facing forward from starboard Riviera Deck wing.

Shortly after the welcome on board show in the Carousel Lounge, the gangway was raised, ropes were freed, and DISCOVERY was on her way. We enjoyed the balmy night air and twinkling lights of Barbados from several vantages, beginning at the lookout on Sun Deck, just over the wheelhouse, then as we walked aft via the teak promenades before settling at the stern docking wings as she picked up speed and sloshed her way onwards to St. Lucia.


The Palm Court, facing aft. Comfortable new chairs and olive carpeting have replaced the wicker and pale gray of the recent past.

Since we missed our early seating dinner, we stopped by the newly refurbished Palm Court for a tasty late night empanada and a reasonably priced bottle of red wine ($US22) before retreating to cabin 5406.

Sunday, April 27, 2008


Theater, facing forward.


Library, facing at.


Internet Room, facing aft.

I awoke at 6:00 and climbed up to Riviera Deck as DISCOVERY motored along the lush coast of St. Lucia. As most passengers were either still asleep or heading to breakfast, the public rooms were largely empty. It was a great opportunity to photograph the recently renovated spaces with their fresh carpeting, new upholstery and artwork.

DISCOVERY looks better than ever, thanks to a skilled and sensitive ongoing redecoration program, beginning with chic new dark blue carpeting in the corridors and stairtowers.


Lobby, with vintage houseflags, facing aft from Deck 5.


Totally random Lobby carpet shot.

In the famous double deck lobby, new navy blue and yellow "wreath" patterned carpeting has replaced Princess' once pervasive turquoise. More refurbishing will occur here with a fresh treatment (hopefully just new grouting) on the Carrara marble surfacing.


Discovery Bar, facing forward.

The Discovery Bar has, in anticipation of 2010 SOLAS requirements, lost its mahogany paneling. But new cherry veneers have retained its warm ambiance.


Discovery Lounge, facing forward.


Bronze panel coat of arms detail.


Bronze panel figurehead detail.

Thankfully, the bronze panel in the Discovery Lounge remains the room’s centerpiece. The lovely QE2-inspired Saarinen-like pillars, terrace and double window panels make this a most attractive mid-century space.


Facing aft from the Terrace Room.


The Terrace Lounge, facing port.


Totally random Terrace Lounge carpet shot.

Upstairs, on aft Promenade Deck, the Terrace Lounge, serving as the ship's secondary card room, has received fresh soft fittings.


Card Room, facing forward.

The Riviera Deck Card Room has been refreshed with new carpeting.


Hideaway Bar, facing starboard.

The Hideaway Bar looks smashingly good in its new gold, deep blue and cherry tones.


Pre-arrival time.


Facing former fleetmate, ORIANA.


Castries, St. Lucia from MV DISCOVERY.

As we approached Castries, P&O’s majestic MV ORIANA was turning in the harbor and backing towards her berth. She would be the only other passenger ship spotted on this journey.


Carousel Lounge, facing forward/starboard.


Carousel Bar, facing forward.


Sun Face in foyer.

DISCOVERY slowly proceeded forward, allowing me to finish up the Riviera Deck public spaces before climbing up to the observation deck for a view over the bow and bridge wings as we entered the small harbor.


MV ORIANA at St. Lucia.


From former Princess to P&O.

The good Captain Derrick Kemp was on the starboard wing, maneuvering the ship with great precision as thrusters and screws churned her into position. Lines were looped around shoreside bollards as the ship's capstans spun them taut.


Facing aft from port Sky Deck, overlooking the Lido area.

We had buffet breakfast in the bustling Lido, with magrodome open to steamy St. Lucia.

With the truncated schedule, I decided I would spend my day at the internet cafe and finish my two prior blogs (whose completion was delayed by lost satellite signals and unrelenting scheduling) as well as load images for this one. It was during this process that I received a message from home, requiring me to make a tough decision. After weighing all options, I had no choice but to terminate the voyage in Antigua the following day in order to be home by May 1 since Antigua was the last stop prior to the ship’s rescheduled Ponta Delgada arrival on May 5.


MV DISCOVERY versus MV ORIANA at St. Lucia.


Seven Continents, facing forward.


Seven Continents, facing starboard.

We returned to DISCOVERY in time to enjoy lunch in the recently revamped Seven Continents Restaurant. The most important vintage chairs have been retained and are now covered in a handsome shade of mocha, while other chairs have been replaced with stylish wooden seating. Dark blue carpeting and gold tones combine nicely with the deep browns, making the room look better than it has in at least two decades.


Luncheon menu.

Service was friendly and quick, enabling us to get back up on deck for sailing after I consumed cream of cauliflower soup wth almond slivers, a fresh poached hake, and a very berry summer pudding with vanilla sauce. Bernadette Kemp, the captain's gracious wife, stopped by the table for a quick moment to welcome us on board. My heart sank knowing that we would soon be saying goodbye.


Leaving Lucia behind.


Midships pool, facing forward from Sky Deck.


Orangerie.


Forward from stern.


Stern curves.

From the port Promenade Deck, it was difficult to tell who was saluting whom but between ORIANA and DISCOVERY, three unanswered whistle blasts were emitted.

St. Lucia in her wake, DISCOVERY made course for Antigua, entering the ever-deepening blue seas. The reluctant sun finally broke through in the late afternoon, much to the delight of the prevalent Brit. sunbathers.

I did my best to capture what I could of the open deck areas, then retreated to the cabin to pack my few belongings not lost to British Airways.


The gym, facing aft.

DISCOVERY has a gym with aerobics space, treadmills, and some free weights adjoining the spa on aft Bridge Deck. It was a nice distraction from the monotony of cardio machines to have a view over the stern as the ship maintained course northward past volcanic Guadeloupe and Martinique (on the Mt. Pelee/St. Pierre side).


The Yacht Club, facing starboard.

With my good friend and loyal Maritime Memories stalwart Rod Anderton (ex engineer from AUREOL), I stopped by the Yacht Club for a few photos just as BJ, the ship's interior designer, was perfecting some final curtain installations. Again, kudos to VOD and BJ for undoing much of the dated design choices implemented in the ship's final Princess Cruises era.

With no suits or even a blazer, thanks to BA, I felt out of place going to the captain's formal cocktail party, so ventured up to Riviera Deck with Rob to watch the sunset from a Mies Vanderohe settee through the ship's full length windows. We then proceeded discretely onwards to dinner, making a quick exit from first seating before the march of the tuxes and tails.

Monday, April 28, 2008


Captain Derrick Kemp brings DISCOVERY into Antigua.


Port promenade Deck, facing forward.

I managed to get up on deck in time to watch DISCOVERY's arrival at Antigua. Both Captain Kemp and Croatian Chief Officer Yaksha Kelez were on the wing with the pilot as she made the necessary maneuvers.


All ashore! Photo by Rob DiStefano 2008.


Des Cox and blogger. Photo by Rob DiStefano 2008.

Rob and I spent some time after breakfast in the Lido chatting with Des Cox, his wife, Ulla, and Rod Anderton. Des shared some amazing anecdotes about his early music business career, keeping the lot of us in stitches for the better part of an hour.

Since I wanted to document the DISCOVERY's departure, we stayed on the ship for the rest of the morning. We watched two episodes of The Great Liners in our cabin, got our passports stamped by immigration, and ventured back up to the Lido for a quick lunch before disembarking at 12:30.


Houseflags reborn!


Rod Anderton and Yaksha Kelez wave from the wing.


DISCOVERY backs and salutes.


DISCOVERY turns before sailing off.

While awaiting the ship's agent on the pier, we said a quick hello and goodbye to Captain and Bernadette Kemp as they returned to the ship. I asked the captain if he wouldn't mind sounding the whistle as DISCOVERY sailed off.

Both Rod Anderton and Yaksha waved from the wing as DISCOVERY, with the mightiest of British merchant marine houseflags billowing from her mast, backed into St. John's. Three whistle blasts and a tear or two later, she turned about in the basin and made her way into the channel.

From the beachfront of our hotel, we watched as DISCOVERY crossed the horizon beyond the turquoise bay, making her way to the Azores.

Special thanks: Rod Anderton, Martin Cox, Rob DiStefano, Mark Flager, Captain Derrick Kemp, Lis Kemp, Pasha and Sharon Prisyon

Berth Of The F3:NCL F3 "New Wave Cabins" And Keel Laying At St. Nazaireby Peter Knego

Norwegian Cruise Line

NCL's special F3 webpage

James Byrd's Blog From The F3 Keel Laying Ceremony

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine


Outside Escal'Atlantique. This and all photos herewith, unless otherwise noted, are by and copyright Peter Knego 2008. Note: please click on photos to view larger versions.

Thursday, April 25, 2008

Having just completed a very pleasant cruise segment on board NCL’s NORWEGIAN JADE between Alexandria, Egypt and Piraeus, our media group was in for a very special treat. We survived a day of delayed planes and the infuriatingly unaccommodating Charles De Gaulle Airport, arriving in the wee hours of this morning for a quick nap at the Hotel du Golf in Nantes, France.


St. Nazaire.


Escal'Atlantique entrance.

After breakfast, a coach whisked us off to nearby St. Nazaire for a private visit to Escal’Atlantique, a remarkable museum dedicated to French ocean liners of the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Simulated passageways from French Line’s FRANCE of 1912 and ILE DE FRANCE, a promenade deck with a passing diorama of French liners, a reproduced cabin from LIBERTE, a steerage mess hall from a Mediterranean liner, a reproduction of the ILE DE FRANCE’s first class dining room, and an “official” drill in a boat that is lowered a full deck into the water are just part of the attractions. Escal’Atlantique was built in 2000 from the remains of a submarine bunker built by the Germans in World War Two.


Cider and chatter.


Submarine bunker walls in peacetime.

Following our tour, we went to a nearby creperie for some authentic crepes and cider, then walked back via one of the austere bunkers to the hotel for a quick rest before our visit to the Aker Yard (formerly the celebrated Chantiers de l’Atlantique, builder of NORMANDIE, FRANCE and a huge roster of famous liners and cruise ships).


Standard stateroom, facing doorway. Image courtesy of NCL.

We were given a glass of fine, dry champagne and seated in a conference room for a presentation by NCL CEO, Colin Veitch, revealing the first glimpses of the company’s newly contracted 150,000 gt F3 ships “New Wave” cabins. Although approximately the same square footage as current standard industry cabins, more efficient use of space is achieved by splitting the w/c and shower unit to either side of the entryway and curving the bulkheads and furniture to give the staterooms a much more open feel. Wash basins en suite lend an old fashioned ambiance in a manner not unlike a riverboat or old European hotel. Contoured LED lighting and redesigned a/c and plumbing have allowed extra ceiling height, realized via curved backlit domes, making the cabins seem all the more spacious.


Balcony Stateroom, viewed from the doorway. Image courtesy of NCL.

A limited palette of sophisticated soft fitting colors in each room melds beautifully with walnut toned rosewood veneers and stark white surfaces. Molded and stained glass original artwork, tailor-made for each room, was a particularly nice touch. Tillberg Design is responsible for the look and layout of the cabins as well as many of the ship’s public rooms, sharing the latter creations with London-based SMC Design.


Deluxe Balcony Stateroom, viewed from the doorway. Image courtesy of NCL.

We were given a chance to walk through and “tap the merchandise” in three mock up cabins (Standard = Inside, Balcony, and Deluxe Balcony) but no photos were allowed since there were some slight last minute changes made after the mock ups were built. Charismatic NCL Executive VP and F3 Project Chief, Andy Stuart and Trevor Young, NCL VP of Newbuilds, were on hand to further explain concepts and details.

All outside staterooms will feature balconies, for a total of 1,415. Each of the stateroom types will included a flat screen television and a mini bar and all the pertinent F2 Freestyle enhancements (upgraded bedding, linens and towels, Euro pillows, Elemis bathroom products and MP3 connectivity upon request. Balcony and deluxe staterooms have bathrobes, a customized fruit menu, a fresh-baked cookie at turn down on the last night of cruise, an escort to the stateroom on embarkation day, priority restaurant reservation and reception hotlines and special color keycard for ship-wide recognition.) currently being retrofitted into the NCL fleet.


NCL CEO, Colin Veitch.

Further details of the two 150,000-ton, 4,200 berth F3 ships will be rolled out on a regular basis. Early "unofficial" renderings indicate twin funnels (in the manner of NCL’s first "wedge" ships such as SOUTHWARD, or, perhaps, Fred. Olsen's BOLERO) with a towering superstructure and lines evolved from the current Jewel class, although there has been no official confirmation from NCL that these renderings are final. NCL CEO Colin Veitch refreshingly and candidly admitted they may not end up as the most beautiful ships on the outside: “Our goal is to build the best, most innovative ship, not the prettiest to watch sail by.”


The smashing Anne Kalosh!


Blogger wields sledgehammer.


Coin details.

A glass or two of bubbly did not prevent each of us from safely wielding a sledgehammer to stamp out two copies of a specially-designed coin commemorating the keel laying. One was ours to keep and the other was destined to remain with the new ship for the rest of her life.


Ship seeking funnel...MSC SPLENDIDA.


Funnel seeking ship...MSC SPLENDIDA.


MSC SPLENDIDA bow section at St. Nazaire.


MSC SPLENDIDA section awaits installation.

In brilliant afternoon sunlight, we were driven down into the massive drydock, past primed sections of the new building MSC SPLENDIDA (while the nearly structurally complete MSC FANTASIA loomed in the distance).


Under the NCL flag.

Donning hard hats and safety glasses, we gathered under wind-whipped NCL banners as a range of pulsating trance, ambient world beat and techno music was interlaced with Queen’s “We Will Rock You”.

A portal in the side of the drydock was opened, allowing the entrance of NCL’s senior brass and shareholders, including Apollo Managements Steve Martinez, Star Cruises’ CEO Tan Sri KT Lim, Lim’s lovely wife Puan Sri Lim, and NCL CEO Colin Veitch.


The keel is hauled into position.


Lowering the keel...


Lowering the keel, ctd.

Using a walkie talkie, Veitch ordered 322 ton block number 5006 of the keel to be brought into place. A huge blue crane lifted the block and maneuvered it overhead, gradually lowering it into the drydock.


Coins ready to be sealed.


Welding coins into the F3 keel.

A number of speeches were made commemorating the event, and then our gathering was led to the keel, where we were able to place our coins in a metal cylinder, which was then welded shut.


NCL team at Aker.


From left to right: Puan Sri Lim, Tan Sri KT Lim (CEO Star Cruises), Steve Martinez (Apollo Management), Colin Veitch (CEO NCL), Jacques Hardelay (Aker France CEO), outfitting manager, Christelle le Calvez (right).

Closing remarks were made, and then we cleared the way, shedding hard hats and goggles as we embarked our various coaches. Dinner was enjoyed at the chic beachfront Le Sunset restaurant. I was lucky enough to be seated at a table with Anne Kalosh, Tan Sri KT Lim, Puan Sri Lim, Colin Veitch, Steve Martinez, Aker CEO Jacques Hardelay and Star Cruises’ President, David Chua.


Restaurant Le Sunset, St. Nazaire.

I particularly enjoyed visiting with Andrew, the Lim’s architect, who is designing the new Genting Casino in Singapore and both Mr. and Mrs. Lim, who were very cordial. I did manage to ask Mr. Lim if there are any plans for new Star Cruises ships but with the fleet shuffling between Star and NCL, he stated he will let things settle before announcing any future newbuilds.
           
For the latest updates on F3 with downloadable high-resolution images of the New Wave staterooms and more artists’ renderings, visit www.F3.ncl.com.

Very special thanks: Martin Cox, Johanna Jainchill, AnneMarie Matthews, Courtney Recht

Made On The JADE Blogby Peter Knego

Norwegian Cruise Line

James Byrd's Blog From NORWEGIAN JADE

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine


NORWEGIAN JADE at Alexandria. This and all photos herewith, unless otherwise noted, are by and copyright Peter Knego 2008. Note: please click on photos to view larger versions.

3:30 AM, Saturday, April 19, 2008:

After some thirty hours of flights from California to Alexandria, Egypt, a fascinating drive from Borq al Arab airport, and various clandestine stops at customs and immigration offices, I had finally arrived at NCL’s freshly renamed NORWEGIAN JADE. It was surprisingly cool outside and the quay and gangway were wet from a recent shower.


AIDA IV at Alexandria.


Verandah cabin 9618, facing port.

After checking in, I was too lagged to sleep, so ventured around the brightly lit upper decks and out to the terminal for a few shots of the JADE just as the sun began to rise over the fabled city of the ancients. Finally, at 5:30, I was able to settle in to my comfortable verandah cabin, 9618, on aft/port Deck 9 and enjoy my first real sleep in over two days.


Fountain of JADE.


Million dollar hull art at Alexandria.

Eight wonderful hours later, I arose with NCL’s plush pillow linens creased into my face to begin, rather belatedly, the day. My first stop was the Garden Cafe, where I built a step pyramid of a spinach salad to fortify another romp around the Alexandria terminal.


NORWEGIAN JADE at Alexandria.


MV OCEAN MAJESTY at Alexandria.


Alizar Restaurant, facing port.


Hibiscus in the ceiling.


Medusa Lounge facing aft/port.


Turquoise karaoke room, facing port.


Wide open space with no rock climbing wall.

Off the JADE’s stern was an interesting Egyptian training ship (a former lighthouse tender) named AIDA IV. Her lines were reminiscent of the once populous Soviet BYELORUSSIA class, while on the other side of the terminal, the diminutive 1968-built OCEAN MAJESTY awaited the return of her passengers. I re embarked the JADE before the rush of tour buses, documented a number of public areas, had a quick workout in the ship’s state-of-the-art gym and hurtled up to deck for the sail-away as the lights of the massive city switched on.


MAHROUSSA the magnificent!

As NORWEGIAN JADE pivoted out of the basin, I was thrilled to spot the Egyptian royal yacht MAHROUSSA in the shadows of the great lighthouse near the palace. The under-documented MAHROUSSA is a remarkable iron-hulled steamer that was built in 1865 as the EL HORRIA. In 1869, she led the first procession of ships through the newly-opened Suez Canal. Over the years, she has been cut and half and lengthened, rebuilt, and employed both as a royal yacht and training vessel. The 3,762 gt, 478 by 43 foot ship sails on day trips a few times a year and is something of a national treasure, so will hopefully exist for many more years. With her long clipper bow, white hull, and buff funnel, she is reminiscent of the legendary cruise ship STELLA POLARIS of 1927 (recently sunk off the coast of Japan) and Emily Cadwalader Post’s (and later Ataturk’s) deluxe yacht SAVARONA of 1931.


Illuminated off Alexandria.

My only prior visit to Alexandria was aboard the illustrious old ACHILLE LAURO in 1994. We sailed in at sunrise for a bus tour of Giza and Sakara, returning to the ship in Port Said. So, now I was finally sailing out of the historic harbor, this time under a rising moon. In the darkness I could barely make out three capsized ships near the breakwater but am not sure if they are the same ones I marveled at fourteen years ago.


Cocktail Bar facing aft.


Formerly known as the Cigar Club, facing port/forward.


Hotel director, Armando Da Silva.


Champagne Bar, facing aft.

I joined the press group in the former cigar bar area of Bar Central where we were hosted by hotel director, Armando da Silva, who began his seagoing career some 25 years ago on board QE2. He and Seatrade Insider’s delightful, delish Anne Kalosh shared early Royal Viking Line shipboard memories as canapes and cocktails swirled around the room. In addition to his tenure with Cunard and RVL, Armando, who was born in Funchal, Madeira, also served on board Orient Line’s MARCO POLO and CROWN ODYSSEY, and, of course, NCL’s belated, beloved NORWAY.


Teppanyaki's Dennis chops away.


Chicken Yakisoba prior to consumption.


Teppanyaki, facing aft.


Jade Garden Restaurant, facing forward.

Dinner in the extra-tariff Teppanyaki (adjoining the Jade Garden Restaurant) followed, as our chef, Dennis, flipped utensils, juggled eggs, formed rice sculptures and laid out legumes on the grill before us. I selected my usual Chicken Yakisoba entree, which was perfectly prepared in a soy/garlic sauce.


Spinnaker Lounge, facing aft/starboard.

As the rest of the press group went off to enjoy the Freestyle 2.0 White Hot Party in the Spinnaker Lounge, I clambered off to the quiet sanctuary of Cabin 9618 for some rest.


JADE awakening!


JADE atrium facing aft from between Decks 7 and 8.


Lavassa cappuccinos erupt from the Aloha Bar.


Totally random lava carpet swirls.

Sunday, April 20, 2008:

Up at 7:00, I turned on the bow cam channel to see if any ships were in our path as the JADE made easy work of the moderate swells. There was nothing on the screen or visible from the verandah so I dressed and headed down to the Aloha Coffee Bar in the atrium for an excellent Lavazza cappuccino prepared by skilled, charming bar tender Eleonore Rueda and battled with the satellite for a decent internet connection.


Bridge Viewing Room.

At 10:00, I tagged along with some of the press group for the bridge tour. Captain Trond Kildal (familiar from the PEARL In The Passage cruise last summer) was kind enough to demonstrate some of the equipment, including the AIS satellite system, which calls up the names, stats and destinations of ships in the vicinity.

The JADE, which was proceeding at a comfortable 21.5 knot clip, is the second ship in the NCL fleet to use all electronic charts, following the NORWEGIAN GEM’s lead. I asked if there were advantages to the distinctive beak-like protrusions from this class of ships' wheelhouses, and the captain said it gives the cockpits a 22.5 degree view of the wheelhouse and surrounding sea.


Le Jazz in Le Bistro!


Caesar par excellence with Jazz Brunch in Le Bistro.


Van Gogh in Le Bistro.

We enjoyed the wonderful Jazz Brunch in Le Bistro where the ship’s jazz trio and three singers serenaded and crooned a cross section of hits from “Summertime” and “Bless This Child” to “Feel Like Making Love”. I had the freshly-made chicken caesar salad, an onion, tomato and cheese omelet and a splendid creme brulee, along with a pair of cappuccinos.


PRIDE OF HAWAI'I/NORWEGIAN JADE builder's plate.


Senator Inouye of Hawaii christens the PRIDE OF HAWAI'I.


PRIDE OF HAWAI'I departs L.A. for Hawaii in May of 2006.

At 1:00 we met again at the United States Library and took a Freestlye 2.0 tour of the ship, which covered many of the innovations the JADE is introducing to the NCL fleet. The JADE was built two years ago as the PRIDE OF HAWAI'I for NCL's NCL America division and in February was renamed NORWEGIAN JADE, sailing to Barcelona for a multi-million dollar refit that incorporated NCL's latest Freestlye 2.0 enhancements (whch will be fleetwide by the end of June).


Model of SS UNITED STATES in eponymous Library.

In the library, coffee is now available in a sort of Barnes and Noble setting and books can be borrowed on a 24/7 honor system basis. The library was packed and many people seemed to be studying the large scale model of the room’s transatlantic namesake.

New “Bliss” bedding has been added to the penthouses and top suites and new cushioned mattress covers have been added to all the rest of the ship’s cabins. The pool areas have been toned down with more relaxing music (no more 70’s style pool games) and Evian mist sprayers who are on hand for a quick spritz. Many additional features have been added to the kids and teen facilites, with updated video games and an expanded baby sitting program and hours. The Garden Cafe now features candles and table cloths for night time dining, various lobster offerings are now available on a regular basis in most restaurants, a welcome on board glass of bubbly is served all guests, and a freshly baked chocolate chip cookie is the final night’s pillow treat.


Jade Club Casino, facing aft.


Jade Club Casino facing aft.

The conversion of PRIDE OF HAWAI’I to NORWEGIAN JADE enabled the installation of the 357 capacity Jade Club Casino on Deck 6 in place of 44 cabins between the Stardust Showroom and the Bar Central area. Acres of carpeting was also refreshed during the ship’s two week drydocking at Barcelona.


JADE massage therapist Jonathan Nguyen holds a hot stone.

At 3:00 PM I enjoyed a special indulgence, a hot stone massage that even exceeded the one I had on the PEARL last summer. Incredibly skilled massage therapist Jonathan Nguyen managed to exorcise my jet travel kinks with a very intense but soothing hour of hot stones, aromatic oils and skilled pressure. He was also gracious enough to not try and "guilt" me into buying product, which actually made me consider buying some. Afterwards, I spent a half hour in the thermal suite gazing at the sea from the sauna and relaxation area.


Grand Pacific Dining Room, facing port.


King Kamehameha of the Grand Pacific.

We enjoyed dinner in the 486 seat Grand Pacific Restaurant, a soaring space inspired by the pre-war Matson Line dining rooms with their gothic deco ceiling fixtures and colorful bulkhead panels inspired by old Matson menu covers.

We went from dinner to “Shout!”, the gala NCL production show framed in a geometric midcentury “mod” proscenium backlit in warm jewel colors. The female cast wore and sang the best of 1960s and 1970s tunes in an envelope-pushing (for a ship) show that poked fun at mod culture. It would be hard to miss with hits by Dusty Springfield, Petulah Clarke, Mary Hopkin, and the like but these gals sang and moved with extra gusto.

NCL’s exclusive Second City improv show was next, filling the 372 seat Spinnaker Lounge to the rafters. I was too tired to attend the Freestyle 2.0 Monte Carlo Party, the second of two specially-themed parties newly implemented on the JADE.

5;30 AM, Monday, April 21, 2008:

After five hours of deep sleep, I found myself inextricably awake as NORWEGIAN JADE glided northward over the Ionian Sea towards Corfu. There was not even a hint of dawn, which would meekly form an hour later in the haze over the Albanian coast off the ship’s starboard side. Outside my port facing verandah, a near full moon played a final game of hide and seek in the mist over Corfu. Like a Panamax sea-going BMW, this massive Papenburg-built ship is barely quivering in what appear to be choppy, following waters.


REGATTA arrives at Corfu.

I took advantage of my recurring “jet-somnia” to consume an early breakfast in the Garden Cafe, then make my way back to cabin 9618 to catch up on this blog before heading up to deck for our arrival at the northernmost Greek island hamlet. Shortly after we berthed, Oceania’s handsome REGATTA appeared from the mist and tied up on the other side of the quay.


Eleonore Ueda with cappuccino.


Ropes that bind at Corfu.


Corfu Cafe Ships.


Corfu corner.


Corfu concrete.


JADE REGATTA at Corfu.

With fortification from one of Eleonore’s Aloha Bar Lavazza cappuccinos, I tried uploading some images to the blog but finally gave up and dragged the laptop ashore to a smoky cafe blasting pulsating trance music in Corfu Town. An hour and another cappuccino later, I was off wandering the stony streets of the Jewish quarter and round the harbor back to the JADE. The mist was finally burning off and giving way to piercing blue skies and turquoise seas.


Fitness Center, facing aft.


REGATTA in reverse.

My trek on the elliptical came to a sudden end when I saw REGATTA backing away, so grabbed the cameras and got situated by the railing in the Outdoor Cafe to watch her turn about and head northwards toward Croatia. Within moments, the JADE followed her lead, then turned south along the Albanian coast toward Katakolon.


Le Bistro, facing forward.

Our group dined in Le Bistro with Captain Kildal and Armando, enjoying a range of delicacies, capped off by a Bananas Foster flambee. In a momentary blip, the satellite connection atomized my next two hours of writing and uploading, so I shut down the laptop and retreated to my cabin.

Monday, April 22, 2008


SERENA sunrise.

When I flung open the curtains at 6:30, the NORWEGIAN JADE was tied fast to the outer jetty at Katakolon. Just off the balcony, the brightly lit COSTA SERENA glided toward the anchorage as a cluster of tenders lined up to disgorge her passengers. As she pivoted in an artery of fog, portions of her upper decks were obscured. The sun hovered momentarily behind her, then disappeared.


Deck reflections at Katokolon.

The Garden Cafe was filling quickly when I arrived, so I ordered an omelet, dolloped some mueseli into a bowl, snatched a slice or two of smoked salmon with all the necessaries (onion, tomato, and lemon) and escaped to the relatively empty terrace in Great Outdoors. The decks were wet and a clammy chill permeated as the fog thickened to the point where nothing beyond the ship, including the COSTA SERENA, was visible.


Stardust Theater, facing port/forward.

I was pleasantly surprised at how well the excursion queueing was handled, and found a seat on bus five within ten minutes of leaving the Stardust Theater. I took a deep breath of dread as our full bus head along the jetty past Ocean Village’s OCEAN VILLAGE (ex SITMAR FAIRMAJESTY, STAR PRINCESS, ARCADIA) and into the Peleponessos countryside. I wasn’t sure if I could face the throngs of tourists at Olympia but our sweet-voiced guide, Athena, skillfully soothed the anxiety with her passionate and colorful Greek mythological anecdotes.


Olympic Arch.


Temple Of Hera, Olympia.


Olympian curtains of violet.

Indeed, some fifty buses were lined up near the site, with placards from OCEAN VILLAGE, COSTA SERENA, and NORWEGIAN PEARL in their windows. But the birds were chirping from the tree tops and the verdant grasses were filled with purple, white, and yellow blossoms and their potent fragrance. The slight haze kept me cool as I meandered with and without our bus group through the ruins and ancient mystery of Olympia. From the lichen encrusted stone and marble of the pillars at Hera’s temple to the wide open space of the stadium and the pulverized majesty of Zeus’ temple, it was a fascinating morning.


NORWEGIAN JADE at Katakolon.

After we returned to the ship, I decided to explore Katakolon and its tantalizing arsenal of cafes, where the aromas of olive oil, fresh bread, and espresso called out like sirens to lure me from photographing the ships in the now sunny port. MSC’s MUSICA was the latest to anchor off the breakwater, adding another two thousand visitors to the already overwhelmed little town.


MSC MUSICA at Katakolon.

I had lunch in the concierge lounge by the window, then sidled up to a railing as the SERENA departed and, shortly thereafter, the JADE slipped away, churning up the ancient silt as she pivoted backwards and then past the MUSICA for the final evening of this all-too-short cruise.


Aft section of Cagney's, facing forward.


Completely random Cagney's carpet sample.


Anne Kalosh Of The Thousand Veils.

The cliffy Peleponessos shoreline remained within sight of the JADE throughout the day and into the night as we regrouped for dinner in Cagney's and that most unpleasant but necessary evil of packing.

Tuesday, April 23, 2008


SAGA ROSE blooms on a Piraeus morning.


ARTEMIS arrives at Piraeus.


OCEAN VILLAGE arrives at Piraeus.

At 6:45 AM, I was once again unable to complete a full night’s sleep. Wearily, I opened the curtain to find that the JADE had berthed in perfect position for me to see the lineup of ships entering Piraeus. Directly ahead was the most beautiful of all, the 1965-built SAGA ROSE (ex SAGAFJORD), still with running lights on, followed by ARTEMIS (ex ROYAL PRINCESS) under a full moon worthy of her Olympian namsake, and a number of familiar ferries. Anek Line’s EL VENIZELOS took the lead, apparently miscalculating the turn into the breakwater and veered in a circle like an angry bull around the roads to try again, followed by GA Line’s MARINA before the two cruise ships were given the right of way. Between arrivals, I caught my last few photos of NORWEGIAN JADE’s public spaces and promenades, finishing up with NEL Line’s THEOFILOS and OCEAN VILLAGE.


Star Bar, the daytime concierge lounge, facing forward.

After breakfast in the concierge lounge, I joined the group again for another painlessly fast and well executed NCL disembarkation. Our bus trip to El Venizelos Airport took a scenic detour through downtown Athens and its historic sites.

The next leg of our journey was about to begin....

Special Thanks: Martin Cox, Johanna Jainchill, Anne Kalosh, AnneMarie Matthews, Courtney Recht