Thursday, 28 February 2008

BALMORAL Blog
By Peter Knego

Fred. Olsen Cruises

The Cruise Critic BALMORAL Q&A Blog
by Carolyn Spencer Brown


BALMORAL on Smarter Cruising blog
by Clark Norton


BALMORAL on Travel Maven blog
by David G. Molyneaux


Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine


Anthony Cooke's Fred. Olsen opus, "The Fred. Olsen Line And It's Passenger Ships" -- delightful and painstakingly well-researched reading for every passenger ship enthusiast!

All text and photographs copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted. Note: click on image to view a larger version.


CROWN ODYSSEY arrives at Los Angeles during a rare storm on January 4, 1995.

Brief BALMORAL History:

Unlike today, the 1980s were a comparatively quiet time for newbuilds in the cruise industry. Just prior to the cruising boon at the end of that decade, a handful of mid-sized vessels were introduced, including Princess Cruises' ROYAL PRINCESS, Sitmar's FAIRSKY, Hapag Lloyd's EUROPA, Home Line's ATLANTIC and HOMERIC, Scandinavian World Cruises' SCANDINAVIA, Carnival's TROPICALE, HOLIDAY, JUBILEE and CELEBRATION, HAL's NIEUW AMSTERDAM and NOORDAM, and RCCL's SONG OF AMERICA. Each of these vessels were unique entities (or had only one twin sister) and made a huge impact on the growing marketplace. One of the highest-rated companies of the day, Greek-owned Royal Cruise Line, contributed one of the finest ships of the era, the 32,242 gt MV CROWN ODYSSEY, which debuted in 1988.


The CROWN ODYSSEY's builder's plate.

With a length of 616 feet and a beam of 92.5 feet, she was built by the Papenburg, Germany-based Jos. L. Meyer Shipyard, hull number 616. She carried 1,209 passengers and 443 crew and was fitted with two 8 cylinder and two 6 cylinder MaK diesels to drive twin screws at a maximum speed of 22 knots. Her engines were the first "father and son" diesels installed in a cruise ship, enabling her to operate efficiently in any circumstance, unlike typical diesels which tend can be over-stressed after long periods of slow speed.


A precursor to today's towering atria, the CROWN ODYSSEY was designed with an impressive, two deck lobby.


The Seven Continents Restaurant, facing forward.


The indoor pool and spa area.

The CROWN ODYSSEY was known for her vibrant decor, which utilized a great deal of reflective surfaces and Tiffany-inspired stained glass, courtesy of Frosso and John Terzoglou and AMK (Agnes and Michael Katzourakis), a well-known Greek design company that also furnished the interiors of RCL's GOLDEN ODYSSEY of 1975 and the redesign of RCL's ROYAL ODYSSEY (ex SHALOM). Commissioned just before the "verandah vogue", the CROWN ODYSSEY had a pleasing profile with well balanced lines, raked and streamlined mast and funnel and banks of picture windows and glass panels.


The NORWEGIAN CROWN in her first NCL incarnation at Ft. Lauderdale on December 21, 1996.

Royal Cruise Line was purchased by Kloster Group in 1990 and continued as a separate subsidy from the company's NCL division until 1996, when it was shut down and its ships were transferred into the NCL fleet or sold to other operators. The CROWN ODYSSEY was renamed NORWEGIAN CROWN and deployed in mainly U.S.-based cruise service.


CROWN ODYSSEY in Orient Lines livery at Rhodes on September 29, 2001.

When Kloster purchased Orient Lines in 2000, the NORWEGIAN CROWN joined the global cruiser MARCO POLO under their banner, reclaiming her old name, CROWN ODYSSEY. She looked particularly handsome in Orient Lines' blue-hulled livery but the incarnation was brief. In 2003, Orient Lines was reduced to just one ship again when the CROWN ODYSSEY was returned to NCL and renamed NORWEGIAN CROWN. This time, a number of alterations were made, including the extension of her forward superstructure above the bridge and the conversion of her cinema and indoor spa area to cabins.

In 2006, NORWEGIAN CROWN was sold to Fred. Olsen but chartered back to NCL to fulfill her 2007 season of cruises. Upon delivery, Fred. Olsen sent the ship to Hamburg's Blohm and Voss yard for a stem-to-stern makeover and also added a 99 foot midsection that further augments the ship with more suites, a second pool, and additional restaurants.

Cabins 744
Passengers 1340 (Standard Occupancy)
Crew 471
Tonnage 43,537 grt
Length 218.18 m
Beam (width) 28.2 m
Speed 20.0 knots

Thursday, March 6, 2008:


Carpet putting on Deck 7.

The carpet putters have just wound up their latest tournament in the vestibule aft of where I am seated. Someone’s precise putts won a token prize from the attending hostess. Meanwhile, the gentleman on the settee across from me is dozing with open novel in his lap as the ship pitches steadily in the windy Caribbean somewhere between Grand Turk and St. Barts. I hear portions of conversation from passersby making their way along the gold and peach tartan carpet. One lady with gravelly voice and perfect diction, winks and smiles, not skipping a beat as she gesticulates with oversized black and white sunglasses to her friend. She is actress Juliette Kaplan, a guest speaker onboard. Unfortunately, I missed her talk, “Confessions Of A Wino”, which I understand was cheeky fun.


Blogging from Braemar Lounge.

I am in the handsome Braemar Lounge of Fred. Olsen’s BALMORAL. The space, itself, is alluring, with a wide passageway and alcoves of seating on either side. Large picture windows look beyond the starboard promenade and into the choppy, breathtaking blue. On either side of the carpeted walkway, the decking is lined in a simulated teak that meshes nicely with the dark walnut tables, copper and gold chairs and settees. Colorful gilt-framed paintings from the Olsen family’s private collection grace the cherry veneered bulkheads.

The snoozing gentleman has startled himself awake, looking to see if anyone noticed his momentary nod-off, before resuming his novel. I’m ready for another cappuccino, but daren’t miss the Grand Tea in the Neptune Lounge...

This leg of my journey began Monday on a bright, sunny afternoon...

Monday, May 3, 2008

A line up of mid-sized RCCL and Carnival ships filled the berths on the north side of Dodge Island. At the south terminus lay the BALMORAL, which looked most appealing with Fred. Olsen’s smart red and black funnel. The recently acquired and lengthened (now 43,537 gt) vessel was visiting Miami for the first time, embarking on a series of U.S.-based Caribbean cruises.


BALMORAL Welcome!

Check-in was easy and smooth, taking no more than ten minutes to reach the gangway.


Cabin 5178, facing port.

Once on board, a stewardess led me to stateroom 5178 on port Atlantic (5) Deck. With an approximate square footage of 165, the cabin features a large picture window, twin beds, four closets, a desk, cabinet and flat screen television.


Fully stocked tea tray, Cabin 5178.


Fred Olsen toiletry kit.

In addition to the generous storage space, a fully-stocked tea tray with kettle and selection of teas as well as two lace-wrapped toiletry kits (shampoo, conditioner, lotion, vanity kit, shower cap and shower gel) are nice touches.

There was a little time to wander and take stock of the changes made to this ship since I last visited her in 2002 as Orient Lines’ CROWN ODYSSEY. Originally, she was a bit glitzy for my personal taste with too many metallic surfaces and vivid color schemes. However, I did appreciate the consistency of her decor and its period cohesiveness, the ship’s relatively intimate size, uniqueness, and the well-traveled clientele she attracted in her Royal and Orient heydays.


Facing aft along Deck 7 shopping arcade and upper foyer toward the Braemar Lounge.


BALMORAL's lobby, facing port from Deck 6.


Pomodoro's bronze globe.


Aft stairtower panels.

Although a portion of the CROWN decor remains, Fred. Olsen has retained just the best elements, including the remarkable bronze globe by Pomodoro, the semi-spiral staircase and Tiffany-style glass skylight in the foyer and Ballindaloch Dining Room and similarly styled glass panels in the stairtowers. Other spaces that retain the Katzourakis look are the Observatory Lounge, which features dramatic views along either side of the ship from the uppermost level of Deck 11 and the gallery that links the lobby and dining room on Deck 6.


Midships Marquee Pool, facing aft.


Marquee Deck pool figurehead.


Marquee Pool, facing forward.


BALMORAL funnel from port Marquee (11) Deck.


Aft starboard Marquee Deck, facing forward.

There are acres of simulated and genuine teak decking on Deck 11 (Marquee) with its new lido and pool and the curved terraces on aft decks 10 through 7 (Highland, Bridge, Lido, and Lounge).


Starboard promenade, facing aft.

Most pleasingly, the wraparound promenade on Deck 7 remains, albeit considerably expanded with the ship’s new length.


Random BALMORAL carpet shot.


Spey Dining Room, facing forward.


Avon Dining Room, facing aft.


Avon Dining Room, facing forward.

There have been several restrained and tasteful renovations as well as additions to accommodate the ship’s transition to BALMORAL (stay tuned for a separate full tour on a new MaritimeMatters blogspot), but favorite new haunts include the Spey and Avon Restaurants on aft port and starboard Deck 10, respectively, with their full length glass panels, large porthole-style windows, walnut paneling, and plush turquoise (Spey) and emerald (Avon) colored seating.


Lido Lounge, facing port.

The Lido Lounge serves as a cabaret style venue with stage and dance floor, a small casino with blackjack and roulette tables and an aft-facing bar and sitting area under a glass skylight, not unlike those found on the SAGA ROSE and SAGA RUBY.


Card Room, facing starboard.


Library, facing inboard.

The Card Room and Library (which features a rotunda similar to that on BLACK WATCH and SAGA ROSE) are very handsome in their new gold and chestnut color schemes and sycamore paneling. Both boast large picture windows, well-groomed plants, and paintings from the Olsen collection. They share a block of midships Deck 7 public space with the Braemar Lounge and Internet Center.


Morning Light Pub, facing starboard.

The Morning Light Pub is a new addition with individual and booth seating and a dance floor for live entertainment.


Palms Cafe, facing aft from port.

The Palms Cafe is also nicely renovated with vivid blue and gold soft fittings surrounding a large wood-toned buffet station adjacent to the Deck 7 pool lido.


Neptune Lounge, facing forward.

The Neptune Lounge on forward Deck 7 is the main showroom, now in orange and brown soft fittings. It features a telescopic stage that can be raised for the production shows or lowered for dancing. It is adjacent to the little-altered shopping arcade and lobby. On Main (6) Deck, the Ballindaloch Dining Room (ex Seven Continents) has been spruced up with fresh new seating and pale blue soft fittings.


Fitness center, facing starboard.

There was time for a quick workout before the media cocktail party at 7:00. The BALMORAL’s fitness center and spa is located on forward Highland (10) Deck, overlooking the bow. Although the structure did not improve the ship’s profile when added during her second NORWEGIAN CROWN refit at Singapore, it was nice to find two elliptical machines in addition to an arsenal of treadmills and a selection of weight machines. During my cardio fling, I could hear the whistles of the departing ships from the other side of Dodge Island.

Downtown Miami’s bustling skyline flickered across the basin from the Observatory Lounge as we enjoyed cocktails, peanuts and those distinctly British twiglets (bone dry pretzels). My requested perrier with lemon came with a small ice cube and some syrupy lemon additive. As a lifelong Anglophile with certain die-hard American habits (a fondness for ice among them), I should have known better and made a note to ask for extra ice and a slice of lemon next time ‘round. But I didn't have to, as the savvy bar staff figured me out pretty quickly.


Ballindaloch Restaurant, facing forward from port.

We enjoyed dinner in the center of the Ballindaloch Restaurant underneath the multi-colored, leaded glass ceiling. I had expected the food to be good, but was pleasantly shocked with the quality and diversity of the offerings. No heavy, traditional Brit food here! The fare was what one would find in a very expensive continental restaurant, beginning with fresh linens, Wedgwood china with Fred. Olsen’s figurehead logo, heavy silverware and tall, elegant stemware. The courses were prepared with aromatic spices and sauces, including a heart of palm salad with dill dressing, a risotto parmesan main course, and a rich but lightly sweetened banana pudding tart.


Leaving Miami ahead.

Some twenty minutes before our delayed 11:00 PM departure, the ship began to rattle. I stood on forward Deck 7, watching as we slipped our lines and thrust slowly away from the pier, before heading up to Deck 11. The BALMORAL rumbled in reverse for the length of Dodge Island until she reached the turning basin. Apparently the lower powered “son” diesels are prone to heavy vibration, which the ship experienced until turning around and picking up speed after dropping off the Miami pilot after midnight.

Tuesday, March 4, 2008

Although my twin bed has a plush duvet, I have shed it in lieu of the much cooler linen bed cover. With the steady movement of the ship, the firm but well-padded mattress, and the light-proof curtains drawn, sleep was assured until the captain’s announcement at 9:00 AM. By the time I found the mute button on the console, it was too late to do much more than sit up, enjoy the new surroundings, watch the bow cam on television and eventually tune in to BBC World for a British take on American political punditry. On this cruise, the BALMORAL also had a Spanish language station, Headline News, a movie channel and an occasional sports channel.


Morrow on the 'MORAL

At 9:45 coffee was delivered, along with muesli, a fruit yogurt, and milk. In lieu of a full breakfast, this was the fuel required to get through boat drill muster in the Lido Lounge. At 11:15, I attended the Music Of Your Life introductory chat by emcee Herb Oscar Anderson, the voice of Manhattan’s KABC radio show, a versatile DJ known for singing along with as well as interviewing his famous musical guests. Music Of Your Life also features legendary trombonist Buddy Morrow, known for his hit, “Night Train”, and leader of the Dorsey 7 (descended from the Tommy Dorsey band). Morrow and his stellar troupe of musicians would be the headline guest entertainment throughout the cruise.


Forward Deck 7 promenade, facing port.


Plunging through a Force 5 from starboard Marquee Deck.


Funnel from starboard Marquee Deck.


In the wake of BALMORAL.

It was windy, with six to ten foot seas, ranging between Force Four and Five throughout the day, although the sun was shining brightly through the scattered clouds. I ventured to the Avon Restaurant for open seating lunch. The first available table seated four, so by the time I returned from the buffet with my salad, I was joined by a very nice couple from the London suburbs who were making their fifth cruise with Fred. Olsen. Having sailed in all the ships except BOUDICCA, they were very pleased with BALMORAL. Among reasons for their loyalty to the company are the ships' on board ambiance and decor, easy charter flights (on this cruise, they flew Thomson Air, which has more leg room and more generous baggage allowances than the other carriers), food and service.

The Greek salad was perfection, and, for the first time in years, I actually used the provided dressing (a dill vinaigrette) in lieu of my oil and vinegar improvisation. A novice at the Olsen lunch experience, I soon learned that I could also order from the menu without appearing gluttonous. It was heavily Greek-influenced, so I chose my usual favorites, which included an avgolemono (lemon chicken) soup, spanikopita (spinach in phyllo), and a chicken pita with hummous main course. I may have embarrassed myself as I pored over each offering in front of my tablemates. They had “been here, done that” and already knew that the food was superb. Even the dollop of hummous that came with the tender, marinated chicken pita was delicious and authentic. I finished it all off with baklava, bid adieu to the nice couple and went to my perch in the Braemar Lounge for a cappuccino.

The more time I spend on BALMORAL, the more I like her! The passengers are for the most part well-traveled and friendly, generally smile and greet in passing and seem to appreciate quality without pretense.

I have found it difficult to keep up on all the entertainment, including a musical set by songstress, Michele Anastacio, who wowed ‘em with her repertoire in the Lounge at 2:45. I promised myself I would make it to tea and at least one quiz but missed both today.

After a short workout in the gym, it was time for formal dinner. Unfortunately, my tuxedo shirt went missing, so I felt a little out of place with mere jacket and tie. The Brits were dressed to the nines in evening gowns, an occasional white coat and tail, and every make and size of tuxedo you can imagine, not to mention a passing kilt or two. For better or worse, some of my American cohorts were attired similarly to me and yet no one outside of our circle made a fuss.

We dined at what would be our regular table, #300 in the forward portion of the Avon at 8:30. A truly magical experience was had by all. I ordered a superb salad nicoise vinaigrette with anchovies and a main course of corn-fed chicken with a lemony white sauce and finished off with crepes suzette a la mode.

The service was on par with the food: no dry water glasses, no long gaps between courses, no lukewarm entrees or any of the expected glitches that come with mass dining.

After this cruise, it will be difficult to enjoy lesser food on other ships. I am assured the cuisine is the same quality on the BALMORAL as it is on all the Olsen ships, so hat’s off to executive chef, Ewald Fabian!

Following dinner, a few of us went to the Music Of Your Life performance in the Neptune Lounge. Although it was the second show of the evening, the room was packed. With each number, which must have sounded as good in the Neptune as it did in its big band heyday, the dance floor remained full. People I had seen barely walking earlier in the day were being twirled, mambo-ed, and samba-ed -- and loving it!


Night view facing forward from aft Lounge (7) Deck.

The night ended with a walk around Deck 7 where it was almost impossible to not slide down the port promenade in the gusts. The BALMORAL's lengthened hull seemed to take the moderate seas in stride.

Wednesday, March 5:


MV BALMORAL at Grand Turk.


Grand Turk ahead!

Even though my speaker was turned off, the captain’s 9:00 AM announcement came in loud and clear through the cabin corridor. Due to the rough seas, BALMORAL would be an hour or so late to Grand Turk this morning and would forego her call at Samana tomorrow, spending the day at sea. To compensate, our schedule was to be enhanced with an afternoon/evening in St. Maarten following our call at St. Barts on Friday.


Chestnut cake in the Spey.

BALMORAL approached the small coral outcrop of Grand Turk at 10:00 and was fully secured to the jetty by 11:00. I took advantage of the empty ship and completed most of my documentation, then made my way to the Spey for another brilliant lunch, including a delicious heart of palm and avocado salad, fried aubergines with a tomato salsa sauce and chestnut cakes for dessert. Supreme, superb and sublime!


BAL lines.


Grand Turk beachfront.


Conch shell's perspective of BALMORAL.

I ventured onto the friendly island at noon, walking along the beautiful conch, coral and sandy beach for various views of the BALMORAL. Once back at the terminal shopping area, I found a little cafe called Frootz and settled in with a cappuccino and a bottle of water to blog away on their WiFi signals. I never had a chance to take a dip in the spectacular turquoise waters of the public beach (with free deck chairs provided) but was charmed by the overall friendliness of the people I encountered. By the time I returned to the ship, the BALMORAL had been joined by Regent's SEVEN SEAS NAVIGATOR.

We sailed quite literally into the sunset, leaving the NAVIGATOR, whose balconied flanks resembled a modern, sea-going “Rear Window”, filled with all forms of humanity in various stages of dress waving us off. BALMORAL shrunk away from the berth and pivoted off on her southeasterly course.

My evening routine was now quite predictable, starting with a run on the ellipticals before cocktails in the Observatory and dinner in Avon. Tonight’s superb courses included fennel salad, a scrumptious chicken in garlic and cream sauce and raspberry confit with vanilla ice cream. It was a toss up between the production show in the Neptune, “Songs Of Hollywood”, featuring BALMORAL’s ten member cast, and the magical Buddy Morrow in the Lido Lounge, so took in a little of both. After checking e-mail and the customary walk around the promenade, I called it a night at 12:30 AM.

Thursday, March 6:

I slept luxuriantly until the captain’s second announcement at noon -- yes, noon! Finally, the sleep deficit was paid in full! I joined one of my media friends in the Spey for a medley of culinary magnificence, including aubergine fritters, Bahamas potato salad, chicken in grandnut sauce from St. Kitts with peanut, ginger, and caramelized sweet potatoes. For dessert, it was gateau de patate (sweet potatoes again) and banana pudding with merengue.


Grand Tea buffet at the entrance to the Neptune Lounge.


Grand Tea in the Neptune Lounge.

There was time to write and slurp up cappuccino before attending the 3:30 Grand Tea in The Neptune. Knowing the quality of the offerings, it was hard to just select a couple of sweets from the buffet table in the foyer. Eventually seated near the stage, I was quite pleasantly shocked when petite Filippina singer Chline Diagon appeared with the Balmoral Band and belted out a dazzling “Besame Mucho”. What a voice!


DAWN at sunset.

A little later, it was up to the Observatory to attend a bit of the Cruise Critic gathering hosted by CC’s very own editor, Carolyn Spencer Brown. Carolyn spent a considerable portion of her cruise responding to e-mails from her readers in a special "What Do You Want To Know About BALMORAL" Blog.

More of my own blogging was followed by a dash out to the starboard promenade at sunset, just as the NORWEGIAN DAWN crossed the horizon. My regular gym, cocktail and dinner routine followed, capped off by a romp around the ship to sample entertainment in nearly every nook, from the comedian, Scotty McLean, in Neptune’s, the Balmoral Band in the Lido, the Rosario Strings in the piazza-like ambiance of the Braemar Lounge, and a lively sing-along in the Morning Light Pub, which left ABBA’s “SOS” stuck in my brain until I finally fell asleep an hour or so later.

Friday, March 7, 2008


MV BALMORAL at St. Barts.


Gustavia, St. Barts.

At 6:30 AM as BALMORAL entered the anchorage of St. Barts, she began her customary stern seizures, finally settlling after about 30 minutes. I was due in The Neptune at 8:00 AM to muster for the Fast and Fun shore excursion, a two hour ride around the island in a high-speed zodiac. Two members of our group were also participating, so it promised to be an enjoyable morning.


St. Barts. from a zodiac.


St. Barts. from a zodiac, ctd.

With nine of ten seats loaded up and before I could stow my cameras safely, our captain Frederic (rhymes with "Diabolique"), whisked us into the swells, leaping and tossing the craft about as we clung to our handlebars. Some of St. Bart's rugged coastline and beaches are among the most beautiful in the Caribbean, but we had to cut our circuit short and abort a swim due to high seas on the other side of the island.


Tip top tikka!


Ya gotta pannacotta!

I beat the return tender rush and made it back on board by 11:30, had lunch in the Spey (including a marvelous chicken tikka and out-of-this-world pannacotta drenched in raspberry sauce), and wrote a bit more. At about 2:30, the BALMORAL was hoisting anchor and heading some fourteen nautical miles to Phillipsburg, St. Maarten.


CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION at St. Maarten.


ADVENTURE OF THE SEAS at St. Maarten.

An hour and a half later, we arrived in a high wind to find CELEBRITY CONSTELLATION and ADVENTURE OF THE SEAS on either side of the jetty, filling with returning passengers. I stayed on board BALMORAL to capture their departures, then headed ashore in search of a WiFi connection. The people in the terminal shops were neither friendly nor helpfull, so I wandered into town and set up the computer at a decibel-smashing bar called The Greenhouse. The clientele was so loud and populous, I thankfully never got a chance to order anything.


Good night, Sint Maarten!

After posting some photos, I made my way further into town to seek out the press group at Taloula Mangos for our farewell dinner together. The Heineken Regatta event was going on, filling the streets with hordes of spring breakers, which made our return to the beautifully lit BALMORAL all the more appealing.

I couldn’t resist the fresh, buttery chocolate cake in the Palm Cafe buffet and then made my way outside to the tropical deck party to see the ship’s band perform. The versatile Chline was in fine form, singing “Material Girl” and “Like A Virgin” well beyond Madonna’s capabilities. By the time I was circumnavigating the promenade, BALMORAL was churning her way from St. Maarten into the balmy, starlit seas.

Saturday, March 8:


BALMORAL at St. John's, Antigua.

BALMORAL backed into St. John’s, Antigua, at approximately 7:00 AM, tying up at 7:30. It was the dreaded final morning of the cruise and my bags were mostly packed. I decided to try an English breakfast in the Palm Cafe, settling on two "over easy" eggs made to order, beans, and cooked tomatoes.


Bell of the BALMORAL.


BALMORAL's crown.

After some final photos (including a visit to the fo’c’sle -- thank you, Steve and Wendy!), I disembarked with the press group for lunch on the island prior to our flights home.

Although I knew I would enjoy a Fred. Olsen cruise long before I finally took one, I was thoroughly impressed with the product they offer: gourmet dining, varied and sophisticated entertainment, a very pleasantly-decorated small-to-mid-sized ship (by today's standards), a brilliant maritime legacy, and a friendly, well-traveled clientele.

Much as boarding an MSC ship is like going to Italy, cruising with Fred. Olsen is stepping into the best of Britain, in this case without the torment and torture of Heathrow. In these all too "similar seas", it is great to know there are alternatives to common platform megaships (no matter how well designed and run) and loyal, like-minded passengers who want no part of that formula. Cheers to Fred. Olsen and much success as they court a small niche of the American cruise market without compromising their Britishness.

BALMORAL will make three more U.S.-based Caribbean trips this season. Next year, Fred. Olsen’s BRAEMAR (ex CROWN DYNASTY, CUNARD DYNASTY, NORWEGIAN DYNASTY) will offer a similar program of cruises.

Very special thanks to: Anthony Cooke, Martin Cox, Charlie Doherty, Wendy Hooper-Greenhill and Steve Kravitz

REGALLY Impressed Blog
by Peter Knego

Imperial Majesty Cruises

MV REGAL EMPRESS History and Tour on MaritimeMatters

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

All text and photographs copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted. Note: click on image to view a larger version.

Saturday, March 1, 2008:


Stepping back in time.

No doubt impressive indicators of a healthy cruise industry, ZUIDERDAM, NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS, COSTA MEDITERRANEA, RADIANCE OF THE SEAS, CARNIVAL LIBERTY, and CROWN PRINCESS dominated the Port Everglades skyline this afternoon. These all-too similar silhouettes represent the common platform ideology of today’s major cruise lines. The standout in the steel and glass assembly was by far the smallest of the lot, a former ocean liner that continues to not just survive, but thrive in today’s modern, mega seas. Imperial Majesty’s 1953-built MV REGAL EMPRESS glistened in a coat of fresh midnight blue and white paint, resplendent in rivets, from her knuckled bow and rounded superstructure topped by gently curved bridge wings to her Clyde-built cruiser stern; a vision in sheer and cambered loveliness.


Random REGAL E carpet shot.

We arrived at Terminal Four just before 1:00 PM to begin the check-in procedure, transferring from taxi to the ship in less than fifteen minutes. As my friend, Rob DiStefano and I crossed the gangway, a line of stewards welcomed us on board, one of whom escorted us up to our cabin, S2, on port Sun Deck. Immediately, we noticed the fresh new carpeting sporting Imperial Majesty’s logo in lieu of the familiar but wilting compass rose motif of recent past.


Port A to Main Deck stairs, facing up/starboard.


Forward Main Deck lobby, facing port.


Forward Upper to Promenade Deck stairs, facing aft.


Shore Excursion counter, facing port.


Shore Excursion Lobby on Promenade Deck, facing forward.

Oh, to be back in the REGAL EMPRESS’ realm of glowing, honey-varnised paneling, bakelite, brass, frosted glass and nickel!


Cabin S2 sitting area.


Cabin S2 bedroom.

Our cabin, a former first class suite from the ship’s original OLYMPIA incarnation, featured dark cherry and mahogany woodwork with separate bedroom and sitting area, each with brass-framed windows looking out over the port Sun Deck promenade. A lovely bonus, in addition to the two televisions and original Greek Line tall boy cabinet was a little maple ottoman with typically 1950s splayed legs, stamped 1953 on its underside.

Our next destination was the buffet on starboard Upper Deck, with its various offerings such as chicken, fish sticks, hamburgers and a tender port roast. As a wise precaution against NLV, all food was served by the staff in lieu of passengers handling the implements.

Out on deck, under the partial shelter of a canopy, the warm breeze whisked a napkin or two across the recently buffed and well-scrubbed teak deck. Under the backdrop of GRAND PRINCESS’ ominous Skywalker’s protuberance, the REGAL EMPRESS’ stern was especially appealing, with its traditional pool and open lido area. The pool basin and accompanying jacuzzis were spotless and the charcoal gray turf appeared to have recently been refreshed. Overall, this is the best I have seen the always well-maintained REGAL EMPRESS look since her Commodore Cruise Line CARIBE days. I feel very encouraged that with this latest dry docking and “sprucing up”, she will serve out her final three seasons in top form before SOLAS 2010 forces her into the history books.

We wandered about for a while, noticing some recent changes that have thankfully not compromised the ship’s vintage character.


Internet Cafe, facing forward.


Photo Gallery, facing aft.


Children's Playroom, facing aft.

The playroom, cafe and internet room on aft Promenade Deck (originally the upper level of her cinema) is now the ship’s spa. The card room on the upper port side of the aft Promenade Deck stair tower is the new photo gallery (I later discovered its displaced Greek Line chairs in the aft portion of the Casino). A small internet cafe with four computer stations has been installed in the forward portion of the port promenade and the former beauty salon on port Upper Deck now houses the children’s playroom.


Gourmet section of Caribbean Dining Room, facing forward.

In the glorious Caribbean Dining Room, the aft/port corner has been screened off for gourmet dining, offering a selection of dishes not on the regular menu for a $25 per person additional tariff. The screens, themselves are inoffensive and the blonde wood chairs in this area are far more attractive than the dark brown enamel chairs switched over from the late OCEANBREEZE. Hopefully, Imperial Majesty can find more of these to augment the rest of the dining room, the most beautiful vintage space on any ship in service.

We had an hour or two to sneak in a nap before sailing but the constant barrage of announcements promoting the Nassau shore excursions unfortunately rendered that impossible. The loud and frequent announcements were the only drawback in this flawless two night sailing on the only American-based classic ship in existence.


Florida NAVIGATOR.


GRAND PRINCESS.

Boat Drill on REGAL EMPRESS is, of course, mandatory and extremely organized. Our station 10 Eastern European drill master made sure we were present, attentive and lined up properly during the entire process, which was overseen by the ship’s safety officer. Frustratingly, the COSTA MEDITERRANEA, CARNIVAL LIBERTY and RADIANCE OF THE SEAS made their way past in perfect afternoon lighting while I stood three deep with cameras shut off at the back of our gathering. After the drill ended, I did manage to catch NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS and GRAND PRINCESS departing as we backed from our berth into the procession.


ZUIDERDAM passing!


Reflections on a fantail.


REGAL sunset

REGAL E gave her traditional three long and one short whistle salute to the condominium complexes on the north side of the channel as a strongly backlit ZUIDERDAM followed us, ultimately passing on our port side as the sun began to set. Cruise director Jim Ward (familiar from past cruises on DOLPHIN IV, OCEAN BREEZE and REGAL EMPRESS) emceed horse racing by the crowded pool area. The jacuzzis were filled, as were most deck chairs and rail space by a healthy complement of passengers. Many braved the windy Boat Deck promenades, while others stood at the rails on the fantail, gazing at the spectacular cloud formations.


Caribbean Dining Room, facing aft.

We were assigned table one (located at the starboard entrance of the Caribbean Dining Room) for second seating dinner at 8:30. A bottle of very smooth chianti (selection 115 -- $30) accompanied our delicious multi-course meal; the modestly billed, chilled tomato soup is actually a delightful gazpacho that should not be missed; the lemon sea bass with pico de gallo sauce is superb and the chocolate cake is as buttery and tasty as it is caloric. We capped it off in the Commodore Club with its sunken alcoves and pianist with a glass of cabernet and then headed to the Grand Lounge show, a medley of Broadway tunes performed by the ship’s attractive and classically trained Eastern European troupe.

It was 50’s night out on pool deck as the ship’s sultry singer and accompanist performed a number of familiar hits. We enjoyed a few romps around the promenade, stopping up forward to gaze at the constellations and a discreetly red Mars. A following wind belied the REGAL EMPRESS’ forward progress, although the rush of white foam along either side of the ship and slight pitch assured we were making speed on our course to Nassau.

Sunday, March 2, 2008


CARNIVAL GLORY and MAJESTY OF THE SEAS at Nassau, pre pivot.


Port bridge wing.


CARNIVAL GLORY and MAJESTY OF THE SEAS from REGAL EMPRESS at Nassau, post pivot.

I parted the curtains at 8:00, just as we passed the Nassau lighthouse and its wave-washed breakwater. By the time I got out on deck, REGAL EMPRESS was pivoting in the basin, preparing to back stern-in to her berth near the CARNIVAL GLORY and MAJESTY OF THE SEAS. Soon, the REGAL EMPRESS was empty and quiet with most passengers off to explore Nassau, giving us time to enjoy and explore her vintage features yet once more.

Open seating lunch included a tasty deviled egg starter, grilled Mediterranean vegetables, a very good fettucini al pesto and chocolate mousse.


REGAL EMPRESS at Nassau.


Imperial Majesty Of The Seas!

Dark, thickening clouds portended rain, which was fulfilled just as we completed a romp around the pier area for photos of the REGAL E and MAJESTY OF THE SEAS. Once back aboard, we enjoyed some freshly baked cookies and a mysteriously weak cappuccino by the pool.


Cabin S2 windows on the sea.


Atlantic sunset from the shelter of the forward Sun Deck vestibule.


Port Sun Deck twilight.


From forward Sun Deck.

At 5:00 MAJESTY blew her deep-throated whistle and thrust her way out of the harbor. REGAL E followed, entering the choppy seas as an opening of magenta sky on the port horizon framed the sunset.

Dinner included an excellent marinated and tender chicken main course and a very fresh fruit tart. We missed the company of Alain Chabot, REGAL E’s veteran hotel manager, who was mending from a knee operation. Alain is always a delight to sail with and has a good book’s worth of anecdotes from his long career on ships ranging from CN’s PRINCE GEORGE to RHAPSODY (ex STATENDAM) and the late OCEANBREEZE.

The Grand Lounge act featured a very competent R&B singer, although we yearned for the ship’s regular company and their always entertaining revue. We enjoyed more time under the stars at the stern and walking around the Boat Deck on another balmy night as we sailed against a southbound procession of Carnival, Costa, Princess, and HAL identi-ships. Although neither of us could justify the caloric intake, we stuck around for the Mexican buffet, finally getting to sleep at 2:00 AM.

Monday, March 3, 2008:


REGAL rain.


Empress REGAL to Princess ROYAL at Ft. Lauderdale.

Announcements began at 7:45. This time, when I parted the curtain, the REGAL E’s railings and port Sun Deck were drenched in rain. She had just picked up the Fort Lauderdale pilot, so I gathered the cameras and sought some shelter under the starboard wing to document our arrival. RCI’s ENCHANTMENT OF THE SEAS and ROYAL PRINCESS were the only other ships in port. The gloomy weather was an appropriately symbolic end to our all-too-short romp in the REGAL E. I always get a bit melancholy when I leave her behind but am happy to see her with a full passenger complement and in such great condition.
Anyone with the slightest interest in ocean liners or appreciation for old world craftsmanship and style that does not sail in REGAL EMPRESS before 2010 is really missing out on a great opportunity.

Fortunately, the next chapter of my latest Florida-based adventure was about to begin, so it was off to Miami and the BALMORAL’s maiden U.S. sailing.

Very Special Thanks to: Martin Cox, Rob DiStefano, Stephanie Serviates

Sunday, 10 February 2008

In And Out Of The Fog Blog
by Peter Knego

SS INDEPENDENCE History and Tour on MaritimeMatters

Ocean Liner Fittings, Furniture and Art For Sale at MidShipCentury.com

Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine

All text and photographs copyright Peter Knego 2008 unless otherwise noted. Note: click on image to view a larger version.


SS OCEANIC at BAE Shipyard, February 5, 2008

I returned to the beautiful San Francisco region this week to say a final good bye to a favorite ship and to check in on another languishing lady whose future remains in doubt.

February 9, 2008:

After three days of crystal clear but crisp morning weather, it came as a bit of surprise when I arose to find San Francisco drenched in a clotted, creamy fog. My usual morning aches and dread were exacerbated by a twinge of sadness and the damp chill as I ventured into the frenzied commuter traffic to witness the departure of the 1951-built SS OCEANIC (ex INDEPENDENCE) from the BAE Shipyard in China Basin.

From my first look at her in The World Book Encyclopedia as a “midcentury” child when she was American Export Line’s proud INDEPENDENCE to my first “real” cruise, a seven night Hawaiian Island hop during her maiden season for American Hawaii Cruises in 1980 (as OCEANIC INDEPENDENCE) and many visits and another cruise over the next 21 years, she was always there. Even in her final, troubled years, from her fireboat greeting in San Francisco on her arrival (following the bankruptcy of her last owners, American Classic Voyages) in 2001 to her lay ups in Alameda, the Reserve Fleet, Mare Island and, ultimately BAE, she managed to stay within reach and camera lens.

As I pulled up to the observation point across from the berth the ship has languished at for the past few years, only the slightest hint of her twin funnels was visible through the swirling morass of fog. Directly above, a tinge of blue and the occasional outline of the sun struggled against the melancholy and gloom.

It was approximately 9:30 AM and a man with a camera was already there to record the event, which was scheduled for high tide (approximately 10:30). Two local tugs, the DELTA DEANNA and DELTA LINDA, bobbed at her bow, their positions changing with the visibility. Meanwhile, off in the channel, the ominous form of an ocean-going tug, the PACIFIC HICKORY, loomed.


SS OCEANIC departs BAE on February 9, 2008.

I set up my gear next to the other man, Zach, a photographer who had discovered the ship while riding his bike along the waterfront nearly a year ago. With no prior knowledge of what the former INDEPENDENCE was, he was smitten by her architecture and beauty. In the next hour, two more photographers and two fellow ship enthusiasts, James Tagliani (whose parents crossed in INDEPENDENCE and CONSTITUTION to Italy -- preferring them over the Italian liners) and John Tobeler, arrived. At 11:00 AM, we could hear the tugs’ engines but could not see anything until a slight break revealed the OCEANIC freed of her berth and almost half way into the channel.


Final counter encounter.

With the slight backlight of the morning sun and her port side veiled in the murkiness, it was easy to imagine her in AEL colors readying for a “Sun Lane” crossing or heading into the Narrows wearing those famous Harlow Eyes during her final “cruise" season for AEL and charterer Fugazi.

We clicked away and conversed, sharing a sense of awe and loss as that twin funneled, counter sterned symbol of past American ingenuity edged slowly toward the PACIFIC HICKORY, portions of her rust-streaked structure gauzed out by the chunky haze. Most of us had plans to follow her out to the Golden Gate, although the first leg of her journey into the Bay would be impossible to document through the thick fog.


Passing Alcatraz.


Off Angel Island.

It was another two hours before the fog lifted and OCEANIC’s fading green funnels appeared through a break in a pine that jutted out from the southwest promontory of the Golden Gate. She turned westward off Alcatraz and entered brilliant sunlight.


Gloriously under the GGB.

Faded paint and stains of rust could not diminish the swept back dignity and gallant lines of the two funneled wonder that was about to glide past. Following the PACIFIC HICKORY like a queen on her way to the gallows, OCEANIC looked proud but resigned to her fate. Behind her, like a loyal lady in waiting, one of the DELTA tugs attended with a fine arc of spray to see her out into the Pacific. With the cliffs of Marin and the calm turquoise waters as a backdrop, the OCEANIC’s ivory flanks were blackened by the shadow of the great orange bridge one final time.

I ran to the car and drove along Lincoln Avenue to the west side of the bridge toward the Sea Cliff estates. After I found my next vantage, a stylish woman in a green Jaguar pulled up and called to me, yearning to know what that "gorgeous ship" was. I told her, then remarked that she had great taste, to which she responded,"I only like the finer things," pausing for one more look, then driving off.


Nearing Point Bonita Light.


Double Vision.

Meanwhile, OCEANIC/INDEPENDENCE slipped past the beautifully-lit Marin Headlands, the historic Point Bonita Lighthouse, and into the Pacific.


Final view.

It’s been a good long life for this Henry Dreyfuss-designed masterpiece of function and aesthetic. Now largely stripped, worn, in the throes of decay and heading for almost certain oblivion, she will thrive in memory, enjoying a legacy few other ships will ever achieve.

February 9, 2008:

MV FAITHFUL/XANADU History and Tour on MaritimeMatters


Backlit From Jack London Square: MV XANADU 2/FAITHFUL/AURORA.

I couldn’t resist cueing up the chirpy Electric Light Orchestra/Olivia Newton-John confection, “Xanadu”, for my approach to Oakland’s Jack London Square this morning. As the song crescendo-ed into a guilty pleasure of chorales, synths, and swirling harmonies, I pulled up near the preserved presidential yacht POTOMAC. Across the channel, a ship that once sported the name of Kublai Khan’s pleasure dome on her bows, awaited.

She was built in 1955 as the WAPPEN VON HAMBURG for North Sea service and thoroughly rebuilt in 1960 by Nomikos LInes as the DELOS for Greek Islands cruises. In 1967, she became POLAR STAR, then PACIFIC STAR in 1970, serving on Westours Alaskan and South Pacific service, respectively. Her next owner was Xanadu Cruises, who employed her as XANADU on expedition style cruises to Alaska and Mexico.

I first visited XANADU in 1976 when she called at Los Angeles at the start of a cruise season to Mexico. At that time, she was a gleaming, yacht-like cruise ship with stylish decor, including the her owner’s personal Asian antique collection. A few short years later, her heyday ended when the ship was laid up in Puget Sound. Plans for use as an exhibition ship, EXPEX, and a Christian hospital ship, FAITHFUL, went nowhere and she ended up in Los Angeles harbor, clandestinely occupied by missionaries until being seized and sold to a Florida-based doctor who hoped to restore her as a hospital ship with the name XANADU 2. Instead, she lay at the Southwest Marine Shipyard, appearing in the background of an SUV commercial before being towed to Alameda in September of 2005 for a planned conversion to a yacht called AURORA. The plans were shelved shortly after her arrival and the ship has continued to languish, suffering plunder and pillage in addition to visits from drug addicts and transients.


Serving FAITHFUL/AURORA/XANADU 2.

The Alameda City Attorney’s Office served the ship notice on January 2, 2008, that she must be claimed by her owners or will be disposed of, effective January 23. A firm based in Rio Vista (on the Sacramento River) has been contracted to tow the ship away as soon as possible to allow for a planned renovation of the pier area she is occupying.


Battered, yet beckoning.


Bulwarks of beauty.

In the brilliant morning light, the ship looked worn and weathered but still powerful and much bigger than her 2,496 gt size. Her tapered bow, harmonious bulwarks. layered and rounded superstructure, streamlined mast and low after decks are perfection in miniature. With the proper rebuilding, she would make a magnificent yacht in the style of Tauck Tours CRISTINA.



Blohm and Voss bow.


Stern reality.

Hopefully, there will be a comeback for this forgotten lady. In the meantime, the chorus fades on the lines, “A place that nobody dared to go, A dream that we came to know, they call it XANADU.......”

End