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Peter Knego Videos Link: ON THE ROAD TO ALANG and THE WORLD's PASSENGER FLEET, Volume Nine
Our first view of EMERALD PRINCESS. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Part One: Thursday, May 17, 2007:
It's well past midnight. My fingers are skittling all over the keyboard as I fight the impulse to fall asleep. I am in Cabin D205, a plush mini-suite, aboard Princess Cruises newest palace of comfort and luxury, the EMERALD PRINCESS. My friend, Doug, who is blessed with the gift of "anytime, anywhere" sleep, is snoring steadily. Beyond our spacious verandah, the lights of Venice have mostly been extinguished. Even St. Mark's permeating glow has faded into the moonless sky.
This latest journey began yesterday in Los Angeles. Doug and I met in the early morning at LAX to catch our flights to Venice, via Amsterdam. KLM is a lovely airline with high standards of service but its coach seating arrangement is medieval. Rows of three mean there are no really good seats for two people traveling together and their leg room situation is a borderline case for Amnesty International.
As the plane finally made its descent to Marco Polo Airport, we were treated to a panoramic view of the Venetian lagoon. In the midst of the red tiled roofs and campaniles, we caught our first look at the sparkling EMERALD PRINCESS, which dwarfed the maritime station and all the monuments in her vicinity. Although our spirits were high, a total of fourteen hours commuting left our six foot three frames vastly crumpled.
Once we retrieved our luggage from the carousel, a Princess representative sent it onward to the ship and led us to a coach for the twenty five minute ride to the terminal, which included a fleeting view of Cunard's newbuilding QUEEN VICTORIA's pipe-topped funnel at the Marghera Yard of Fincantieri.
Our headquarters for the next twelve days, mini-suite D205, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Check in was well organized and speedy, especially considering all the passengers that were being processed. We were given our cruise ID cards and assigned a boarding group number, which came up quickly. After the security photo was taken at the gangway, we entered on Deck Four and climbed five flights to our level. On the forward, starboard side of Deck Nine, our mini-suite has a separate sitting area, a wide verandah, bathroom with tub, and a walk in closet. There is a mini-bar station with two flat screen televisions, a writing desk and a coffee table.
Princess has some of the best buffet offerings on the seven seas and our subsequent Horizon Court lunch did not disappoint, with its selection of panini sandwiches, roast turkey, various pastas, a delicious chicken teriyaki, a salad bar with a wide variety of vegetables (dressed with a generous supply of cherished balsamic vinegar, olive oil, and mounds of parmesan).
EMERALD PRINCESS at Venice's Stazione Marittima. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
There was a convenient water shuttle service directly to St. Mark's, with departures from the terminal (just off the ship's bow) every twelve minutes during peak hours. Vouchers are in the stateroom upon boarding and a $15 charge is added to the passenger's account when they are used.
The lovely yacht MARALA at Venice. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The water taxi/vaporetto ride is about fifteen minutes, sailing past the enormous ship, into the Canale Giudecca, and along the colorful Venetian waterfront to St. Mark's. Once there, we were surprised to find congestion at a minimum and walked past the vast campanille, the ornate baptistry and Doge's Palace along the waterfront to Riva Setti Martiri. A most pleasant find was the gorgeous yacht, MARALA, with her single buff amidships funnel and classic proportions resembling a scaled-down version of Elder Dempster Line's late RMMV AUREOL.
Off the beaten track reflections of Venice. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Venice could not have been more enchanting. On previous visits, I was overwhelmed by the hordes of tourists and somewhat inclement weather (ranging from an all day downpour to sweltering humidity). Today, the skies were mostly clear, the humidity was low, and the crowds were manageable.
Forte Fronte, Arsenale, Venice. Photo and copyright Doug Satterblom 2007.
We enjoyed getting lost in the maze of canals and cobblestone streets in the outer portions of the old city. One of my favorite monuments is the Forte Fronte at the Arsenale, with its oversized lion statues and shaded piazza. We stopped here for an iced tea and my cappuccino fix before heading back to the water taxi station and the ship.
Emerald Paisley, Venice canal. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007
Sabbatini's, facing forward/port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Our night excursion to Doge's Palace was cancelled due to a private function, so we were able to attend the media get-together in Sabatini's, the ship's extra tariff ($20) Italian eatery. I lost count of the appetizers, which ranged from prosciutto and melon to marinated sun dried tomatoes and breaded zucchini. My main course was a phenomenal Chilean sea bass, served by the Romanian "dream team" of Sebastian and Peter. Wiser minds would have avoided the caffeine-rich espresso creme brulee, but I didn't have the discipline, which is why I am not enjoying some much-needed sleep.
Princess Cruises
Part Two: Friday, May 18, 2007:
Skywalker's facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Doug left at 8:30 to wander Venice, allowing me to indulge a late morning sleep in and begin my documenting of the vast EMERALD PRINCESS. I began on Deck 18 with the glass-enclosed Skywalker's and its sweeping views over the stern. From there, I continued to Deck 7 and worked my way forward from the Fusion Nightclub through the photo gallery, the Crown Grill, Explorer's, Crooner's piano bar, the lively Piazza, the Library, and the Princess Theater.
Merely walking through these spaces does not do them justice. Princess ships are laid out in such a way that they rarely feel crowded, despite the vast numbers of people they carry. Thus far, getting around the EMERALD PRINCESS has been easy and congestion free. There is a good flow to the public areas, which are augmented by the many large windows and sea views along the way.
The Princess Theater, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Muster drill was held at 12:40 PM, just prior to our departure. Our station was in the Princess Theater, allowing us a seat for the proceedings, unlike the uncomfortably compressed "on your feet" line up on my last cruise (MONARCH OF THE SEAS).
Leaning towers of Venice. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Piazza San Marco from the perspective of EMERALD PRINCESS. Photo and copyright Doug Satterblom 2007.
More MARALA. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Sailaway was magnificent. A slight windchill on the forward Deck 15 platform atop the bridge was not enough to dissuade us from some stunning views of the beautiful ancient city as the EMERALD gently glided through the canal and into the main sea lanes. Bathed in sunlight, the campanilles were breathtaking, each one slightly askew due to the relatively soft compressed mud they were built upon. We had one final view of the MARALA, which looked tiny from our nearly 20 storey perspective.
EMERALD's pearly wake in the sapphire Adriatic. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007
EMERALD PRINCESS entered the deep blue Adriatic, leaving a wide, white wake behind her. A cool wind blew across the upper decks as we sought shelter near the pizzeria and the midships Deck 15 pool. I approach most shipboard pizza with caution, but the Margherita looked like real Italian pizza. It was not only the best pizza I have had on a ship, it rivaled the what I have had in the little Ligurian coastal town it takes its name from. A couple slices, combined with my well-endowed daily salad and a bowl of cappuccino was all I needed to be in "EMERALD Ecstasy".
The current pool area, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Facing forward toward the Sanctuary and current pool from the observation platform on forward Deck 18. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The midships pool on Deck 15, facing aft from forward Deck 18. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The aft Deck 15 pool and video screen. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Facing forward from aft/starboard Deck 19. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Documenting some of the ship's upper decks in the brilliant afternoon light was followed by a trip to the gym, which has a great assortment of ellipticals, treadmills, Nautilus machines, free weights, spinning cycles, and an aerobics/stretching floor. The sea views from its deck 16 vantage are impressive and pleasantly distracting.
Crooner's Bar, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Crown Grill, facing starboard from aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We joined the media group for cocktails at Crooner's, which gave us a chance to meet more of our fellow voyagers before we head into the Manhattan-themed Crown Grill. For $25, this extra tariff dining venue offers seafood and fine cuts of steak. Although neither are my preferred choices, most of the people in our group were impressed with their selections and the attentive service. I asked for a vegetarian alternative and enjoyed it very much, along with the scalloped potatoes, asparagus, and other vegetable side dishes that came with the regular dinners.
Dessert was an apple/berry strudel, baked to perfection.
The Fusion nightclub, facing port/aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After dinner, a few of us wandered into the Fusion Nightclub to catch the tail end of the Princess Pop Star karaoke contest, then listened as the live band took over and played some 80's classics.
A quick stroll along the promenade revealed no ship sightings, so off to sleep we went.
Saturday, May 19, 2007:
Room service delivered our breakfast right on time at 10:30. We lingered over mueseli and fresh melon on our shaded balcony as a partial waterspout formed on the distant horizon near an island that resembled Corfu. Nine decks below us, the blue seas refracted the ship's brilliant white hull into fanlike patterns. The water's surface was mirror-like until meeting the froth of EMERALD's bow wave. Translucent mahogany-tinted jellyfish and an occasional styrofoam cup floated past.
EMERALD PRINCESS' looming bridge and layer cake superstructure. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I was granted permission to go to the focsle for my "face" shot of the superstructure, an incredibly powerful series of wedding cake like terraces topped by the tinted glass wheelhouse and its dramatic white steel pillar supports. For some reason, I thought of Yoko Ono's iconic wraparound sunglasses looming over the bow of the ship. The fo'c'sle, itself, is a wonderful crew space with a pool, jacuzzis, and sunning platforms. The mooring deck is just below, enclosed within the ship's whale like bow.
The gym, facing aft from starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
It was a carefree afternoon, with time spent in the cafe sipping more cappuccino, eating pizza on deck, working out, and getting the first blog page loaded. We sailed past some magnificent islands, which appeared to be Kefalonia and Ithaca. In the distance off our bow, occasional white spots sent me charging down several decks to retrieve my cameras, only to reveal themselves as small coasters and not the flotilla of passenger ships I had hoped for. We did eventually pass a dramatically lit MILLENNIUM-class ship late that night.
From left to right, Doug Satterblom, Princess' maestro maitre d'hotel, Generoso Mazzone, and your blogger.
We gathered at the Da Vinci dining room for our special Chef's Experience dinner ($75 per person and worth every cent). First, we were led through the galley where we washed our hands and were served blue crab margaritas with avocado and mango, a foie gras terrine on toast with apple chutney, a Fontina cheese mini quiche with white truffles, and buckwheat blinis with caviar and creme fraiche. Princess' executive chef, Alfredo Marzi and maitre'd'extraordinaire, Generoso Mazzone, hosted us and explained how the gourmet specialties were prepared. We then head down to the Michelangelo Dining Room for an asparagus risotto with lobster tail and claws, and bloody mary sorbet.
Princess Cruises' executive chef, Alfredo Marzi, pours brandy onto the flambeed trio of specialty cuts. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The main course was a flambeed trio of beef, veal, and pork tenderloin, their au jus dripped over buttery mashed potatoes. I was given a phenomenal halibut, garnished with various side dishes, including roasted onions, asparagus, glazed carrots, and white asparagus. Next, we were served a stilton cheese tart with a port wine sauce, rosemary, and candied walnuts.
The clam shell, prior to being devoured... Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Dessert was an amazingly textured white amaretto parfait with vanilla-soaked plums served atop magnificently sculpted sugar clam shells.
We watched a portion of the Motown tribute in the Princess Theater, which was packed to the rafters, then circled the promenade, stopping at the stern to marvel at the EMERALD's powerful wake, a gurgling, horizontal waterfall.
Princess Cruises
Part Three: Sunday, May 20, 2007:
From EMERALD to RUBY. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I awoke at 5:45 AM as EMERALD PRINCESS was backing into her outer Piraeus berth. The lights of Perama, Keratsini, and Drapetsona were still on as dawn broke over the mountains beyond central Piraeus. As our ship pivoted to port, the RUBY (ex CUNARD COUNTESS) gradually came into view. Her funnel had a blank white circle on it, possibly awaiting the addition of Louis Cruise Line's logo as she fills in for the recently lost SEA DIAMOND through late July.
CARNIVAL FREEDOM makes an auspicious entrance at Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
THEOFILOS follows. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
IRIS eye-rives! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
ANNA MARU outbound at Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
ROMILDA roams in... Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
In the distance, a procession of brightly lit ships was following us in. The first in line gradually revealed itself as the CARNIVAL FREEDOM. EMERALD PRINCESS offered a perfect vantage at the harbor mouth to catch the arrivals, which included Mano Cruises' IRIS and an array of ferries. Off at the main terminal, I could make out the funnel of the CRYSTAL SERENITY between a cluster of Piraeus apartment houses in the waxing backlight. Across the channel, I watched the little ANNA MARU fill with passengers embarking on a day cruise to the Saronic Gulf.
HERMES awaits a message regarding her future. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The Parthenon. Photo and copyright Doug Satterblom 2007.
The Temple of Poseidon at Sounion, Greece. Photo and copyright Doug Satterblom 2007.
Doug took Princess' full day tour to the Acropolis, Plaka, and Sounion, while I had my own agenda in Piraeus. After breakfast in the Horizon Court, I took the free shuttle to the central passenger terminal and walked down the main drag, Akti Miaouli, past the closed offices of Monarch Classic Cruises and the lovely St. Nicolas Church to the normally busy shopping area. My first stop was the maritime book store, Telstar, where I delivered a batch of videos. Then I head to the ferry quay in the hopes of catching the next boat to Paloukia on Salamis Island (passing through the anchorages of Keratsini, Drapetsona, and Perama), but the return schedule had me coming back too close to our 7:00 PM sailing time. So, I walked back along the waterfront, passing the seemingly derelict HERMES (ex JUGOSLAVIA), which has been joined in layup by her one-time rival, the AEGEAN GLORY.
The internet center across from the main terminal had ethernet access, so I worked on this blog for a couple hours before heading back to the ship just as it began to rain. The IRIS concluded her short visit and sailed past EMERALD PRINCESS just as I grabbed a snack from the Horizon Court. CARNIVAL FREEDOM followed shortly thereafter.
Sisters in different dress, MSC's RHAPSODY (ex CUNARD PRINCESS) and RUBY (ex CUNARD COUNTESS) in the same frame. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
CRYSTAL SERENITY outbound. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
From our cabin, I could see various crew members cleaning and painting the RUBY's upper decks. I head to the gym, hoping to squeeze in a workout before the departures began, but a small dot on the horizon soon morphed into MSC's RHAPSODY (ex CUNARD PRINCESS). From the vantage of EMERALD PRINCESS' aft Deck 19, there would be a nice chance to capture the two former Cunard twins, now the RUBY and RHAPSODY, together once more. But the outbound CRYSTAL SERENITY took priority.
Rhapsodically immaculate, MSC's RHAPSODY enters Piraeus. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
As the RHAPSODY finaly made her way through the channel beyond us, I was not surprised to see that she is absolutely pristine.
Shortly after the last bus returned, the EMERALD PRINCESS cast her lines and pivoted starboard into the setting sun. In the distance off her bow lay the wreck of the MELODY(ex DJEBEL DIRA), which has been sitting in purgatory for nearly twenty years. Over our stern, the Acropolis came into view, capturing the day's last pinkish rays. EMERALD PRINCESS dropped off the pilot and gained speed as she head for Kusadasi.
Up until this point, the schedule has been very full, so we enjoyed a rather laid back evening, dividing our dinner between the Pizza Bar and Cafe Caribe's buffet before retiring shortly prior to midnight.
Monday, May 21, 2007:
WIND SPIRIT arrives. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Smaller but still precious, Louis Cruise Line's THE EMERALD approaches EMERALD PRINCESS at Kusadasi. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Another dawn awakening found EMERALD PRINCESS already berthed at Kusadasi. From our balcony, I could make out two small white specks on the horizon, so I head back to my perch on aft Deck 19 for aerial arrival views of the incoming WIND SPIRIT and Louis Cruises' THE EMERALD (ex SANTA ROSA).
Ephesus, one of the most important and well-preserved Roman archaeological sites. Photo and copyright Doug Satterblom 2007.
Doug took the ship's "elite" tour (smaller groups in smaller coaches) to Ephesus and the Terrace Houses. I finished documenting the ship, capturing the gym, Heart's and Minds wedding chapel, the Piazza and its various alcoves, the Wheelhouse Bar, and the three main dining rooms: Da Vinci, Michelangelo and Botticelli.
A banner day for EMERALDs at Kusadasi. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007,
EMERALD PRINCESS at Kusadasi. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
EMERALD Cities. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
An EMERALD choice. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I had enough time to go ashore and get photos of the various ships and upload images to the site before cueing up with the passengers returning from their various exursions.
We left at 1:30, allowing a quick snack oppurtunity before my 2:30 appointment with indulgence at the Lotus Spa. My day's therapy would be the "Cellutox Aroma Spa Ocean Wrap", which found me slathered in a detoxifying seaweed solution, wrapped in foil, and eventually given an expert massage by specialist, Richard Watson. I spent a half an hour after that in the Thermal Suite, enjoying the various aromatic steam areas and a tropical rainforest shower before returning to the cabin in a halcyonic state to try and piece this installment together.
Da Vinci Dining Room, facing aft. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Tonight, we will have cocktails at the Wheelhouse Bar and dinner in Da Vinci. Tomorrow, its a full day tour of Istanbul with lunch at the posh Ciragon Palace, as our EMERALD adventures continue.
Tuesday, May 22, 2007:
Istanbul never disappoints the shiplover. Here, the SEBASTOPOL, an unusual former Soviet research ship, now engaged in the Black Sea passenger and cargo trade, sails past our balcony. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The alarm was set for 7:15, but I awoke at 6:30 with the Asia Minor waterfront of Istanbul in full view. A fuzzy white form on the ship's bow cam indicated another cruise ship in port. The Bosphorus Bridge gradually came into view as EMERALD PRINCESS berthed port side to the passenger terminal. I ran to get a cappuccino from the International Cafe, stopping on Deck 7 to see that the blur on the television screen was Iberojet's GRAND VOYAGER (ex OLYMPIC VOYAGER). When I returned to the cabin to join Doug for breakfast on the balcony, one of the interesting little Ukrainian former research vessels in Black Sea to Istanbul coastal service sailed past us. A small cloudburst drenched the balcony for a quick moment before dissipating.
The famous entrance to Topkapi on a remarkably uncrowded day. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Topkapi! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Reflections of a concubine? Gold mirror in the Harem, Topkapi. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We headed to Club Fusion at 8:15 to muster for our tour of Istanbul. Within moments, we were on a bus with ten other people, heading for Topkapi Palace. The Elite tour was worth every extra cent it cost. Our bus had extra open seats, allowing us to switch sides throughout the excursion to take pictures. Our first stop was Topkapi Palace, which is closed to all but cruise ship passengers on Tuesdays. I have been to Topkapi twice but today it was devoid of the clamoring crowds and stifling heat on my prior visits. We spent ninety minutes there, allowing us ample time to see the famous Harem as well as the jewelry, tapestry, and military exhibits.
The opulent Ciragan Palace Hotel. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
From Topkapi, we were taken to the Grand Bazaar area where we were given the usual rug factory visit and time to wander the marketplace. Finally, we were driven across town to the Ciragan Palace Hotel where we enjoyed a phenomenal lunch of mezes, various chicken and lamb courses, and delicious baklava with a view of the busy Bosphorus.
The EMERALD PRINCESS' Cafe Caribe, facing forward along the starboard side. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Since I have already been to the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia, I asked to be dropped off at the terminal when the bus head back in that direction. Once back on board the EMERALD PRINCESS, I was able to document the few remaining spaces I had not yet covered, including the Horizon Court and Cafe Caribe. From aft Deck 14, I was also able to get views over the stern of GRAND VOYAGER.
Iberojet's GRAND VOYAGER exits Istanbul. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.A quick workout would suit me fine before capturing the GRAND VOYAGER sail past us prior to our own departure. Istanbul is one of the world's most beautiful sea ports and sailing past its monuments and picturesque cityscape is one of the great pleasures in life. Enjoying it from a private balcony with a glass of ice cold Perrier after a long day makes it all the better.
After an hour trying to get a wireless connection, I joined the media group in DaVinci for dinner ( a wonderful gorgonzola/pear appetizer, Princess' famously rich fettuccini alfredo in a baked cheese basket, and a wildly exotic glazed pineapple custard phallus capped by a spun sugar globe), then returned to the cabin to complete this installment.
Princess Cruises
Part Four: Wednesday, May 23, 2007:
Horizon Court, facing aft along the port side. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I enjoyed sleeping in until 9:15, then head for the Horizon Court to work on this blog. Unexpectedly, the familiar, rocky shores of Mykonos came into view. The EMERALD PRINCESS was nearly two hours ahead of schedule, forcing Celebrity's soon-to-arrive GALAXY to take the anchorage.
When we went ashore shortly after noon, we took Princess' free shuttle to town. Our first stop was a taverna, where we ordered Greek salads and a fresh chicken gyro plate. I spent time at an internet cafe while Doug walked through the maze of cobblestone streets in Mykonos town.
The Sanctuary, facing port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After returning to the ship, Doug soaked up the sun in the Sanctuary, his favorite part of the ship: "It was easy to escape the crowds and noise at the Sanctuary, a plush oasis on Deck 17 above the spa. The $10 charge for morning or afternoon visits was worth every penny. The most popular chairs were those in the sun. Lunches were delightful in the shaded areas."
The Piazza, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I set up shop in a corner of the WiFi-equipped Piazza. The three deck tall space was buzzing with activity. The cafe was filled with ice cream, pastry, and coffee connoisseurs, and the adjacent Vines was haven to those wishing an afternoon glass of wine or a nibble of seafood. A violinist intermittently played from the terrace between the panoramic elevators, sharing the limelight with body balancers (cirque-like dancers) and stilt walkers.
A million dollar moment. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
At 6:00 PM, the EMERALD PRINCESS pushed away from the quay and turned to the west to clear the harbor, then continued southwest on her course toward the Strait of Messina. The sun sparkled off the very calm seas whose surface was occasionally pierced by diving sea birds. We enjoyed a spectacular bottle of Veuve Clicquot on our balcony as the colors in the sky deepened and the sun sank into a violet patch of clouds. Our neighbors just aft were celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary with a romantic balcony dinner.
The Wheelhouse Bar facing forward from port. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
A very low key dinner in Horizon's included some fantastically fresh penne arabiatta followed by a samping of each of the EMERALD PRINCESS' entertainment venues. In the Princess Theater, soprano Philippa Healey sang a selection of familiar Andrew Lloyd Weber tunes, accompanied by the ship's orchestra and a string quartet. The Wheelhouse Bar featured the more jazzy stylings of the Fantasy Duo and Shuffle Club. In Crooners, piano man Brett Cave sang a range of songs from Elton John to Billy Joel and John Lennon.
Explorer's facing port/forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Adagio, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The extremely talented Elite Showband literally rocked the house in the Exporer's Lounge, turning the dance floor in a mellow mosh pit throughout their energetic and engaging set. Club Fusion hosted a number of options, from a Disco Party to a Marriage Game Show and concert by True to Life, another one of the ship's musical acts. In the sophisticated setting of Adagio, a pianist played selections by Cole Porter and Gershwin while we sipped our potions and savored a selection of olives.
We gladly added an hour back to our clocks as we retired very late yesterday evening.
Thursday, May 24, 2007:
The EMERALD PRINCESS' wheelhouse, facing starboard. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The final sea day began with breakfast in Horizon Court (enhanced by a cappuccino), then off to the bridge with members of the press group.
Captain Pomata on the bridge. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Captain Giorgio Pomata greeted us and answered questions about the EMERALD PRINCESS, his illustrious career, and his first passenger ship, the lovely FAIRWIND (ex SYLVANIA).
Since then, I have been sitting in the Piazza, adding photos with the help of a fellow California-based writer, Maryann Hammers. Soon, I will have to head to the gym, then back to the cabin and organize my chaos. We have visitors coming to dine with us on the balcony at 7:00 PM as we enter the Strait of Messina, enroute to Napoli.
The EMERALD PRINCESS' International Cafe, facing forward. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Just as I prepare to sign off, a freshly baked cookie and glass of milk are delivered to my table by a smiling steward. I suppose the gym will have to wait...
Part Four: Thursday, May 24, 2007, ctd.:
We enjoyed some quiet time on the balcony as the EMERALD PRINCESS neared the eastern Italian coast, passing a small cargo ship and several ferries during the course of the afternoon. Occasionally, the faint outline of mountains were visible on the far horizon. At one point, we were amazed to watch two very large sea tortoises swimming toward the ship, diving under the surface as they neared.
Left to right: Judy Cuervo, Michael Travell, PK, Doug Satterblom. Photo by Vassily, copyright PK Productions 2007.
Balconized indulgence? Indeed! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
I needed to either take a nap or work out, so chose the latter, returning to the cabin around 6:45 as two of EMERALD PRINCESS' dining staff arrived to set up our private balcony dinner. We had just entered the Strait of Messina, and the outside temperature had risen noticeably, bringing with it a wild wind. Two friends soon joined us out on the terrace as the stewards served our drinks and courses. We spent the next few hours enjoying animated conversastion, lavish treatment and delicious food as the two stewards worked beautifully around the elemental challenges of wind and space limitations.
Friday, May 25, 2007
Former Home Lines fleetmates, MELODY (ex ATLANTIC) and OCEANIC at Napoli. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Despite all the indulgence of the prior night, this morning I felt quite good when I awoke to find EMERALD PRINCESS maneuvering sternward into busy Napoli. The NEW FLAMENCO (ex SPIRIT OF LONDON, etc.) lay aft of us on the western side of Stazione Marittima. Entering the harbor in the golden morning haze were ISLAND ESCAPE (ex VIKING SERENADE, etc.) and the exquisite OCEANIC. When we disembarked, we found OCEANIC's former fleetmate ATLANTIC directly across from us on the eastern side of Stazione Marittima, looking quite spruce as MSC's MELODY.
Capricious arrival. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We herded together at the end of the pier with several tour groups onto a jetfoil for Capri. For one very brief second, the former Home Lines ships could be seen together as the craft sped into the Bay of Naples. Ahead, the obtuse "M" of Vesuvius loomed above a thick mist. Soon, Capri's dramatic cliffs were soaring high over our bow. The marina was teeming with freshly disgorged visitors as our boat joined a line-up of similar vessels on the quay. We were led by our guide, Peppe, into small buses for the zig-zag ride up the face of the mountain to Anacapri. Capri's hairpin turns and precipitous ledges are legendary, but must really be seen to be believed.
Riding the Seggiovia to Monte Solaro, feet dangling in the wind. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Once at Anacapri, there was an option to go via chairlift to the top of Monte Solaro. Either a lapse in judgement or an overwhelming desire to be with my friends found me joining them on the lift. It was a fascinating if somewhat unnerving ten minute ride over verdant gardens and mustard-covered hillsides to the top.
At the end of the world, Capri's Monte Solaro meets the sky. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The spring blossoms had released a potent perfume in the air, made all the more mystical by a creeping fog that rose straight up the face of the massive cliff. Gulls would circle in the upper portion of the clouds then disappear with a dive down into their endless white mass.
Another stupendously beautiful view? Then it must be Capri! Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.Soon, we were back into the heart of Capri, enjoying lunch at a hotel, then off for a short walk to the Augustus Gardens and their incredible views of the cliffy coastline and neon-blue waters. There was time to wander the promenade of La Piazetta, shop, and get a gelato before taking the Funiculare down to the marina for our jet boat ride back to Napoli.
In the shadow of Vesuvius, MELODY departs. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
By the time we returned to Stazione Marittima, ISLAND ESCAPE and NEW FLAMENCO had left. OCEANIC steamed out of the harbor before we got back on the EMERALD PRINCESS. I set up my laptop by the Pizzeria on Deck 15, keeping my eye on MELODY, which sailed at 6:00 PM. At 7:00, EMERALD PRINCESS was churning her way from the historic art deco terminal and heading out to sea.
We swam for a bit in the current pool on Deck 16, then went to Cafe Caribe for a simple dinner (which consisted of salads and some Indian food offerings) before retiring early. The final sprint in a marathon of long days on tour had begun.
Part Five: Saturday, May 26, 2007:
Princess Cruises
Ah, Civitavecchia! One of the least scenic ports in the world, but always a ship spotting paradise. I managed to crawl out of a groggy sleep onto the balcony as EMERALD PRINCESS entered the breakwater shortly after dawn. Behind us, RCCL's NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS posed in a golden sunlit 3/4 bow position, awaiting the completion of EMERALD PRINCESS' pivot in the turning basin before she would replicate the same maneuver outside the harbor and back into her berth across from us. The two giant white behemoths would be Civitavecchia's harbor sentries for the day. Further in, Regent Seven Seas' pleasant-looking SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER, Star Clipper's five masted ROYAL CLIPPER, and the ultra-gorgeous SEA CLOUD formed an interesting lineup along our quay.
Tuscania and its scenic countryside. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007
Villa Lante and its famous maze of topiaries. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The marina at Lake Bolsena. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.Having seen Rome and all of its monuments, Doug and I chose Princess' excellent excursion to Tuscania, the magnificent gardens of Villa Lante, and lunch at scenic Lake Bolsena. On the long, pastoral drive, the late spring meadows were filled with brilliant red poppies, complementing the silver green canopies of the olive trees.
The SEA CLOUD passes NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS at Civitavecchia. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
We were back at the ship by 5:00 PM, which allowed me to capture the departures from the terrace above the wheelhouse on Deck 15. The SEA CLOUD, a floating dream with her glowing woodwork and schooner lines, seemed to be making full speed as she raced past us at 5:30.
SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER at Civitavecchia. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The NAVIGATOR OF THE SEAS prior to navigating into the Tyrrhenian Sea. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The SEVEN SEAS VOYAGER was next, emitting a few plumes of impatient diesel exhaust while the outbound ferry NOMENTANA overtook her. The VOYAGER swung into the basin and made her way past us in the wake of the SEA CLOUD, which was now well out to sea, backlit in a patch of gold, courtesy of the late afternoon sun. Finally, like a Jules Verne vision, the colossal NAVIGATOR thrust away from her berth and into the Tyrrhenian, following the still visible, southbound CLOUD and SSVOYAGER.
As the EMERALD PRINCESS slipped away her lines, the inbound Knud E. Hansen-designed MOBY FANTASY took on the pilot. We passed each other just outside of the breakwater, where the EMERALD turned northward for her slow journey to Livorno. The intense program of full day excursions was beginning to take its toll, so we had a relatively low key dinner in Da Vinci, savoring Princess' consistently top notch service and excellent cuisine, before retiring early.
Sunday, May 27, 2007
Princess Cruises
At 5:30, I checked the bow cam on channel 47 and parted the curtains of our verandah to see if any passenger ships were joining the EMERALD PRINCESS in Livorno. I must admit I was almost relieved to see that we were the only game in town, allowing me to crawl back to sleep for another hour before it was time to muster for our excursion to Cinque-Terre. With over two thousand passengers headed off on tour each morning, I am impressed with how quickly we have been dispatched on our various tours, entailing a minimal amount of waiting and cueing up.
Livorno is possibly the world's least attractive port, but once outside the city limits, the true beauty of Italy awaits. Our bus raced northward along the Tuscan highway, through a vista of farmland, villages, and even a distant view of Pisa's famous tower and duomo.
La Spezia from the Ligurian hillside. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
After an hour or so, we turned westward toward La Spezia, a port known to ship enthusiasts as the final resting place of many great ocean liners, from French Line's LIBERTE, Italia's GIULIO CESARE and LEONARDO DA VINCI to Siosa's IRPINIA. The busy scrap yards were eliminated decades ago and now La Spezia is being restyled into a tourist-friendly destination where a huge marina and redevelopment are in the works. Anchored in the tranquil bay, I was surprised to see the THOMSON DESTINY (ex SONG OF AMERICA). Although the waters were calm in sheltered La Spezia, it was still too rough for the Cinque-Terre excursion boat, so the bus took us to our first destination, Manarola, winding through the terraced mountains of Liguria and several scenic villages. After our frenetic, harrowing minibus ride on Capri, the meandering, precipitous drive felt tame.
Vernazza, our third stop at the coastal villages of Cinque-Terre. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
The "Lovers Walk" promenade between Manarola and Riomaggiore. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Manarola, like the other four villages of Cinque-Terre, is built around a church and city square that lead down cafe-lined streets to small marinas. From Manarola, we proceeded along "Lovers Walk", a promenade cut into the basalt seaside cliffs, to Riomaggiore, where we caught the coastal boat to Vernazza. Here, Doug and I went into a local deli and paniceria, bought a brick of parmesan and a freshly-baked roll and devoured it by the water's edge.
Monterosso's beach, facing south along the Ligurian coast. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
From Vernazza, it was off to our final stop, Monterosso, where we had lunch (salads and fresh pesto pasta) and wandered the pastel stucco-fronted streets until it was time to hike back to the coach to Livorno.
I watched our sail-away from the elliptical machine. The ship had begun to move a bit by the time we arrived at Adagio's for cocktails and our final dinner at Sabbatini's. It was another beautifully presented marathon of anti pasti, a fresh chicken broth soup with vegetables, mouth-watering cheese ravioli in truffle sauce, main courses (I had the truffle chicken: tender, juicy perfection), and dessert (with accompanying aperitifs and coffees). Our table for six laughed the night away, although there was an underlying tinge of regret that we were nearing the end of our journey together.
Several of us lingered on at Skywalker's, then walked past the remnants of the champagne waterfall in the Piazza before calling it a night.
Monday, May 28, 2007:
Force 9 from the shelter of cabin D205. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
Another dawn awakening, this time to a howling chill on the balcony. In the distance, behind several rocky promontories, lay bustling Marseille. A few large ferries would soon overtake us and head into the harbor, where I could barely make out the upperworks of Orient Line's handsome MARCO POLO (ex ALEXANDR PUSHKIN). I donned the camera bag and climbed up to Deck 16 to watch as the pilot boat came alongside. However, instead of proceeding to the harbor, the EMERALD PRINCESS rode the swells for a few moments, turned away from the coast and slowly moved out to sea. I returned to the cabin for the rest of my sleep-in, which lasted until a very indulgent 11:00. Finally caught up on my REM deficit, I awoke a second time to find the ship listing to port and watched as huge plumes of mist sprayed outside our balcony. With some pizza margherita and a cappuccino on Deck 15, I watched the white-veined growlers from the glass enclosed midships pool area. The officer of the watch announced we were in a Force 9 gale with occasional gusts at 10 and 11. Considering, the EMERALD PRINCESS took the seas smoothly, with the occasional fishtail and a few head-on rattles as she plowed forth.
Goodnight from the EMERALD PRINCESS. Photo and copyright Peter Knego 2007.
It is now 2:00 PM, and the seas have calmed considerably. I am sitting in our cabin, listening to Nina Simone's "Feelin' Good" and looking out past a deep blue vista to rugged Cape San Sebastian and a backdrop of snow-capped mountains. Our EMERALD journey is almost at its end. Plans include lunch, some time on deck, possibly the afternoon trivia quiz, maybe a short workout, lots of packing, hesitant "good byes" to newfound friends over cocktails and dinner, and a short sleep before disembarking the ship at Barcelona tomorrow.
Very special thanks to: Julie Benson, Karen Candy, Michelle Colligan, Martin Cox, Judy Cuervo, Rob Distefano, Rhiannon Erickson, Maryann Hammers, Caroline Klein, Deborah Marsh, Karen McColl, Generoso Mazzone, Doug Satterblom, Michael Travell
